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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 07:41 PM
  #16  
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orich
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I put in the duel tank selector to shut off fuel flow when changing fuel filter. I've had to much gas run down my arm to many times, and said the hell with that any more so while installing the pump added the tank selector.
orich
 
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Old Dec 18, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by orich
I put in the duel tank selector to shut off fuel flow when changing fuel filter. I've had to much gas run down my arm to many times, and said the hell with that any more so while installing the pump added the tank selector.
orich
good idea,gas on bare skin is never a good idea - in looking, site says 417 cid for your motor - i've heard of the simple crank swap easy bump from the stock 360 to a 410 - I'm thinking you've done this? Which crank? was it just the crank or did it entail rods too?
 
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 09:29 AM
  #18  
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I went with a new 410 engle crank & H-beam type Rods with .030 over It was a father & son build. All while my son lived in the Las Vegas area and me in San Jose ca. I had the block work done here and sent him the crank and all internal parts. Then he moved around some. Then bought a house with a good size garage. I when over in Jan. of that yr and we put it together and retuned home . Then returned that April with the truck and we installed the new motor. Then drove around putting on 225 miles then drove it back home of 508 miles. It was his first motor to ever put together.
orich
 
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 05:23 PM
  #19  
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Most mechanical pumps work on RPM, so at low speed they tend to pulsate and not put alot out. They don't need much to idle an engine. Then once you raise the rpm up they get up to speed and volume.

I'd take mech. over most any small electrics. They are much more prone to failure then a stock pump. My .02
 
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 07:42 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by orich
I went with a new 410 engle crank & H-beam type Rods with .030 over It was a father & son build. All while my son lived in the Las Vegas area and me in San Jose ca. I had the block work done here and sent him the crank and all internal parts. Then he moved around some. Then bought a house with a good size garage. I when over in Jan. of that yr and we put it together and retuned home . Then returned that April with the truck and we installed the new motor. Then drove around putting on 225 miles then drove it back home of 508 miles. It was his first motor to ever put together.
orich
sounds like a fun project - how much did Engle punch you for? it can be done with stock Ford parts as well correct? Which Ford crank would you use? Did you do anything else to the motor? How many miles on it now? Bunch a questions i know - I'd imagine you ended up in the 9-10 mpg range? but then again yours is 4 wheel and they are geared differently - Hows it power wise? In comparision to the 360?
 
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 09:32 PM
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Hmm engle crank was like $650. block wes square decked. Cyl. homed with torque plate.
I did all oil holes updates deburred block inside & out of block casting flashing, Block is mirror 501 has the crank bearing saddle supports. Comp cam 265 high energy kit All intake & exh SS valves, matched ports to intake to heads, Polished some what and deburred all port runners values pockets
Okay gas miles before new motor was 11-12. New motor mileage with the 5sp od tranny coming home from Vegas got 14 mpg keeping rpm 1900-2100=about 60 mph. You can go to the lower link that will take you to my web site and check it out. So we don't make this page any longer..Ps and my speedometer & tach are correct as it's a VDO electroic.. orich
 
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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 10:36 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by orich
Hmm engle crank was like $650. block wes square decked. Cyl. homed with torque plate.
I did all oil holes updates deburred block inside & out of block casting flashing, Block is mirror 501 has the crank bearing saddle supports. Comp cam 265 high energy kit All intake & exh SS valves, matched ports to intake to heads, Polished some what and deburred all port runners values pockets
Okay gas miles before new motor was 11-12. New motor mileage with the 5sp od tranny coming home from Vegas got 14 mpg keeping rpm 1900-2100=about 60 mph. You can go to the lower link that will take you to my web site and check it out. So we got make this page any longer..Ps and my speedometer & tach are correct as it's a VDO electroic.. orich
Nice,sounds very nice -5 spd OD tranny? now thats not stock either - yours is 1 year newer than mine - mine being what it is is a 3 spd auto - Was talking to one of the neighbors who was telling me he had one the exact same year - no matter what kind of driving 9 mpg - Like i say i don't have a ton of experience with our iron so i'm learning as i go - Mine is not going to be any more really than a good strong hopefully reliable work/tow truck - I do like nice/good go-fast stuff - but if i could do reasonably the same with a stock part - well
 
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 05:11 PM
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orich,thanks for the advice it worked somewhat - but sitting over nite damn thing needs to be primed again - To hell with it i'm going back to the mechanical one.Would too lean of a mixture,ie: not delivering enough resulting in a lean mixture cause back firing thru the carb?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 05:26 PM
  #24  
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
I'd just leave it inline just as a pusher with a off & on switch, and put your manual pump back on.
If it still back fires do a compression test you may have burned out exh seats from running unlead gas if it don't have hardened seats install..
orich
 
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Old Dec 26, 2011 | 11:00 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by orich
I'd just leave it inline just as a pusher with a off & on switch, and put your manual pump back on.
If it still back fires do a compression test you may have burned out exh seats from running unlead gas if it don't have hardened seats install..
orich
Do you feel its beneficial? They both seem to be struggling-I got bent outa shape with it today - tried to start it, there was a little gas left in the float bowl as the acclerator pump was working, engine coughed on that - then nothing - so i put the mechanical one back on but eliminated/took it outa the circuit the electric one and still nothing - do you need to prime the mechanical one as well? got dark and i was pissed at it so i did'nt continue.I was thinking to at least fill up the filter bowl.Speaking of compression yes its right at the edge in that i had a low of 130 in #3 and a high of 160 in several of the others but had 135 in another and a couple of 140's - Its the original motor and probably has'nt had anymore than the bare minimum of maintenance - I don't take care of any vehicle that way but thats me.When i've had it drivable to a side street degree for test - I was surprised at how much punch it had so i'd felt/hoped i could get it running well enough to use it and pick up a 360/390 block somewhere and start going thru that as a replacement - At least i'd hoped that - its going to put a real crimp if i've got to go thru that engine now as i'm not at all prepared to do it in lots of ways -
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 12:04 AM
  #26  
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It shouldn't have taken to much to prime the manual pump if the motor started and run some, it should have been enough to have primed it. If not dump a little gas down the carb about a teaspoon at a time until it started up .. Those little 12v pumps do work pretty good once primed. They don't stop the pulsing action when the pressure builds up ok, They just slow slows down. Do a compression check on the low cylinders with some oil squirted in the cylinders. If it raised the compression way up then the rings are bad. But if it just bring it up about 10 psi then the valves are bad. ..
orich
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 11:34 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by orich
It shouldn't have taken to much to prime the manual pump if the motor started and run some, it should have been enough to have primed it. If not dump a little gas down the carb about a teaspoon at a time until it started up .. Those little 12v pumps do work pretty good once primed. They don't stop the pulsing action when the pressure builds up ok, They just slow slows down. Do a compression check on the low cylinders with some oil squirted in the cylinders. If it raised the compression way up then the rings are bad. But if it just bring it up about 10 psi then the valves are bad. ..
orich
It did'nt run on the manual - there was some residual gas in the bowl as the accelerator pump was squirting thru the nozzles in the primaries and the engine kicked on it but did'nt catch and that was all it wrote for yesterday - I'll have to wait until friday now as i work 4 - 10's - The electric was bone dry again i would've had to have started all over with the damn thing - got pissed off at it and installed the mechanical pump - I'll start anew this friday - I'll try it with the compression test - whatever it is - thats right at the limit of range that you want to see so the motors borderline - If i can get it functional so can pick and chose when to rebuild it i do need the vehicle right now -
 
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