Help with drum brakes?
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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Help with drum brakes?
I have a 1992 F250 HD with the 460, and I need to replace my drum brakes. The guy I bought the truck from just gave me new pads, no springs, no cylinder, etc. I was going to do the replacement in my auto shop class, but my instructor gave me a strange look. He agreed to help me with it. I have never done the swap before.
Is this something that a 16 year old can do with some help and no experience with drum brakes? Or should I spend the cash and have the local shop do it for me?
Anything helps, thanks.
Is this something that a 16 year old can do with some help and no experience with drum brakes? Or should I spend the cash and have the local shop do it for me?
Anything helps, thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 8,402
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Drum brakes are not difficult to work on. Do one side first so that you can refer to the other side to see where the springs go. You can get a hardware kit at any parts store for a few $ which would be a good idea.
No need to replace wheel cylinders unless they are leaking fluid or are seized.
No need to replace wheel cylinders unless they are leaking fluid or are seized.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
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From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
One tip for ya, when you are trying to remove the rear hold down spring, the park brake lever is in the way. If you set the parking brake it makes it a lot easier. Just dont forget to release it before you try to get the drum back on.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Myself I wouldn't pull the rear hub just to replace the shoes and hardware kit, not unless the hub seal shows signs of leaking past present.
If you do you gotta hand pack inner and outer bearings and clean/reseal the axle to hub, make the job take twice as long if choose do so. If you don't hand pack them (and you should) you take the chance of burning them out before grease from pig flows back in filling the hub. Naturally if the pig is low because no one ever checked it they might never get any. After pulling hubs make sure pig is full, drive it 100 miles and recheck top off as needed.
The hub is not hard enough to work around warrant taking it off just for that reason.
Couple shots give you an idea what to expect,
Rear drums are more complicated/complex then disks however are easy to replace the shoes and spring kit. Do as suggested do one side at a time keeping one side use as an example make sure you get it right.
Diagram for further reference if needed,
If you do you gotta hand pack inner and outer bearings and clean/reseal the axle to hub, make the job take twice as long if choose do so. If you don't hand pack them (and you should) you take the chance of burning them out before grease from pig flows back in filling the hub. Naturally if the pig is low because no one ever checked it they might never get any. After pulling hubs make sure pig is full, drive it 100 miles and recheck top off as needed.
The hub is not hard enough to work around warrant taking it off just for that reason.
Couple shots give you an idea what to expect,
Rear drums are more complicated/complex then disks however are easy to replace the shoes and spring kit. Do as suggested do one side at a time keeping one side use as an example make sure you get it right.
Diagram for further reference if needed,
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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Thank you all for the advice, it seems like a simple thing to do. I think that I can do it in the 3 1/2 hours I have in the class period. And if needed, I can stay after school. Seems like it's just a matter of making sure everything goes back in the right place, as is with most replacements haha I assume that you suggest getting new springs? And those pictures are very helpful! I was kinda hoping to see some.
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