Rear Brakes?
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 246
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From: Loganville,GA
Rear Brakes?
Hey Guys,
I Need some Rear Brake Shoes on my 250. I have done Front brakes before but I have never Messed with Shoes and Drums. I took my back wheel off to see what I was working with yesterday. My question is How hard is it to replace the shoes? I see there is a few springs that Have to come off. I got New Drums, Shoes, Etc this Morning...Any suggestions for a first timer doing this job?
Thanks, Mark
I Need some Rear Brake Shoes on my 250. I have done Front brakes before but I have never Messed with Shoes and Drums. I took my back wheel off to see what I was working with yesterday. My question is How hard is it to replace the shoes? I see there is a few springs that Have to come off. I got New Drums, Shoes, Etc this Morning...Any suggestions for a first timer doing this job?
Thanks, Mark
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 174
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First, only do one side at a time. That way you have a physical reference to go by.
Second, take pictures before you disassemble. This way you have a backup and can see exactly how things were before.
Don't ask me why I suggest both....lol
Rusty
Second, take pictures before you disassemble. This way you have a backup and can see exactly how things were before.
Don't ask me why I suggest both....lol
Rusty
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 148
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From: Western NC
You have already done front brakes you can do the rears.
I would replace the wheel cylinders at the same time & yes there are some springs to take off and put on.
Take some pics before you start.
I would replace the wheel cylinders at the same time & yes there are some springs to take off and put on.
Take some pics before you start.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Loganville,GA
I took pictures last night while I had my wheel off so thats covered.. I did get the Right size... there were two sizes 2.5 and 3... mine are 3.
Is there any suggestions on which springs to take off first?? Do I just take off springs put new shoes on and replace springs? Just trying to make sure when I get into this project I am gonna be able to get out of it...lol
Is there any suggestions on which springs to take off first?? Do I just take off springs put new shoes on and replace springs? Just trying to make sure when I get into this project I am gonna be able to get out of it...lol
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Pugetopolis
I had some of the same reservations about this a few months ago. Take the drum off and start removing springs, but make sure they don't go flying anywhere. You'll be surprised how easy it is. Just put it all back together the way it was. It took me a coupla hours, but that was partly because the wheel and drum had fused together with some mild surface rust. Brought out the PB Blaster and a BFH: problem solv-ed.
Some guys do all new springs-n-things, but I thought mine looked okay. I did rub some grease on a few spots to reduce the rust factor.
Make sure you do your adjusting after the install. You'll want a slight drag as you spin the wheel. The shoe will wear in to fit.
Some guys do all new springs-n-things, but I thought mine looked okay. I did rub some grease on a few spots to reduce the rust factor.
Make sure you do your adjusting after the install. You'll want a slight drag as you spin the wheel. The shoe will wear in to fit.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Livoina,La
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Loganville,GA
Thanks Guys.. I am gonna give it a try this evening.. Also so Helpful Videos on youtube.... IF I can just get that first side done I will be ok ...lol
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Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
It's really pretty easy, the only tricky part in my experience is the center bolt on top where the ebrake and springs are. The way I got it out was I took the nut off the backside, then beat the bolt out as far as I could carefully with a piece of brass (not much room), then pried it out from the outside. You'll see what I mean when you get in there.
I used these directions
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
I will recommend to change the hardware with new, its only about 15 bucks I think. My springs looked ok for the most part, but I was glad I had new hardware, just kept some of the old for spare parts.
I used these directions
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
I will recommend to change the hardware with new, its only about 15 bucks I think. My springs looked ok for the most part, but I was glad I had new hardware, just kept some of the old for spare parts.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 246
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From: Loganville,GA
It's really pretty easy, the only tricky part in my experience is the center bolt on top where the ebrake and springs are. The way I got it out was I took the nut off the backside, then beat the bolt out as far as I could carefully with a piece of brass (not much room), then pried it out from the outside. You'll see what I mean when you get in there.
I used these directions
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
I will recommend to change the hardware with new, its only about 15 bucks I think. My springs looked ok for the most part, but I was glad I had new hardware, just kept some of the old for spare parts.
I used these directions
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
I will recommend to change the hardware with new, its only about 15 bucks I think. My springs looked ok for the most part, but I was glad I had new hardware, just kept some of the old for spare parts.
Not sure what you mean about the Center Bolt there the Ebrake... only thing that I took out was springs, Pads and Adjuster... The Thing you are talking about didnt have to come out... It was in the way but got it Done.
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Senior User
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From: Loganville,GA
Well Guys I got the Rear Brakes done this evening.. It wasnt that Bad.. First side took about 1 Hour cause I took it apart carefully and layed it out... The other side took a little less but man my Hands got tired from taking out and putting new springs in.
I didnt get much of a Chance to drive it after... Just around the Block... Pedal Feels Kinda Mushy.. Is that Normal after doing the Rear Brakes? I didnt do any adjusting on the adjuster cause they seemed like they were just right as far as space between the shoe and Drum.. but what do I know this is my first time doing rear Brakes..lol
I didnt get much of a Chance to drive it after... Just around the Block... Pedal Feels Kinda Mushy.. Is that Normal after doing the Rear Brakes? I didnt do any adjusting on the adjuster cause they seemed like they were just right as far as space between the shoe and Drum.. but what do I know this is my first time doing rear Brakes..lol
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
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From: AZ
Did you bleed the rear brakes? The adjuster gear can be turned from the slot in the bottom rear to adjust the brakes. Turn the adjuster until the drum is hard to turn then back it off a little. If you don't have any luck bleeding the brakes then gravity bleed them. Worked for me a while back but I converted to rear disks and love them.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,508
Likes: 2
From: The boonies by Dallas OR
The 3-1/2" shoe fits the DRW drum.
The best way to deal with either stuck wheels or stuck drums:
Get the rear axle up on jack stands. If the wheel is stuck, loosen up the lug nuts a few turns. If it's the drum, run the lug nuts back on a ways. Then get in, run the speed up forwards and then stomp the brake. Now do it in reverse. It will only take 2 or 3 times to knock it free.
Get the rear axle up on jack stands. If the wheel is stuck, loosen up the lug nuts a few turns. If it's the drum, run the lug nuts back on a ways. Then get in, run the speed up forwards and then stomp the brake. Now do it in reverse. It will only take 2 or 3 times to knock it free.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
Likes: 75
From: Plankinton, SD
Good to hear you got it done. I set my rears up to where they were just lightly snug when I put it back together, then put it in reverse when done and hit the brakes a few times to get the adjusters right.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Loganville,GA
Did you bleed the rear brakes? The adjuster gear can be turned from the slot in the bottom rear to adjust the brakes. Turn the adjuster until the drum is hard to turn then back it off a little. If you don't have any luck bleeding the brakes then gravity bleed them. Worked for me a while back but I converted to rear disks and love them.
I didnt know I had to Bleed the new brakes.. I only Changed the shoes.I can do that But I didnt think I had to unless I got air in the lines or something?
When you say hard to turn do you mean hard to Turn with the Tire on or off? I turned them when I was done with the tire on and the tire out spin 1 time then stop. I dont Have any experience doing Rear shoes, But I get what you are saying.