porblems that the 05 6.0 had
#1
porblems that the 05 6.0 had
ok i will addmit to not using the seach funtion, please dont shoot me im in a hurry for this specific year model. what problems did the 05 have? i left the ford brand to go to dodge and after 300k of touble free miles i have backed into a deal on a used ford with so im thinking about it. i will be towing 27000 lbs weekly. yes i know its not smart nor is it with in the rating of the truck. my dodge does it fine but i am getting tired of the squeeks and what not. please give me a quick heads up on this motor as i havent owned a ford since my 2000 7.3 that my sister kissed a pine tree with.
the truck i am looking at seems to have a egr delete and 5 inch exhaust with an unknown programer. its a 05 fx4 6.0 cc 350 long wheel base with 4 inches of lift(ugh) and 33's on 20's. i am unsure of any other mods
thanks in advance
matt
the truck i am looking at seems to have a egr delete and 5 inch exhaust with an unknown programer. its a 05 fx4 6.0 cc 350 long wheel base with 4 inches of lift(ugh) and 33's on 20's. i am unsure of any other mods
thanks in advance
matt
#2
Well, you could nitpick some of the details, but this is generally accurate:
6.0L Ford Power Stroke Engine - Ford Diesel Trucks - Diesel Power Magazine
Head studs would be a big benefit if it has those. you can see a head bolt on the front lower side of the passengers side cylinder head. look for a large stud with a nut on it instead of the head of a bolt. a coolant filter would indicate the owner is aware of the importance of clean coolant, usuially it's a spin-on type near the passengers side of the radiator, up top. EGR delete is a plus if you can get by local emission inspections. and recent oil cooler would also be a big plus.
I'm no expert but if the tuner is a "Shift on the fly" type, they make power but at the expense of transmissions life. Most guys who run them are pretty pickey about who made the tuner and who wrote the tunes that are in it.
6.0L Ford Power Stroke Engine - Ford Diesel Trucks - Diesel Power Magazine
Head studs would be a big benefit if it has those. you can see a head bolt on the front lower side of the passengers side cylinder head. look for a large stud with a nut on it instead of the head of a bolt. a coolant filter would indicate the owner is aware of the importance of clean coolant, usuially it's a spin-on type near the passengers side of the radiator, up top. EGR delete is a plus if you can get by local emission inspections. and recent oil cooler would also be a big plus.
I'm no expert but if the tuner is a "Shift on the fly" type, they make power but at the expense of transmissions life. Most guys who run them are pretty pickey about who made the tuner and who wrote the tunes that are in it.
#3
well here is the deal on it, i have no clue about the tune, but good money says over the counter as the dealer has it in his office. the top of the motor has sinister all over it. as for studs i didnt see any and i have no clue as to a oil cooler add on. should i buy the truck the tune will be gone before i hit the road in it, as i know the need for a well writen tune and a light foot when towing at my wieght. i need to know how hard it is to lift a head at stock power levels and what other problems i might see coming as i cant afford maintance down days during the working months.
thanks
matt
thanks
matt
#5
#6
ok (insert "anything can break-no guarantee disclaimer here), It's my impression these trucks do better when worked hard and often. Sitting for extended periods of time and trips to the grocery store is not what it good at. It isn't like many of the older diesel engines as far a maintenance. Fresh oil and filters are key to keeping the injectors alive, no extended oil changes on a 6.0. (or fuel filters either) It's important to use Motorcraft/Racor filters. There are patent issues and the aftermarket work around was a slight re-design requiring adapters or different caps on the filter housing and none of them work well and some of them can even cause damage. With the EGR delete one of the main PITA's is gone. no worry about dumping coolant into the intake if the cooler failed, and less carbon deposits in the intake/cylinders/exhaust. The bottom end seem strong, it makes good power, and fuel mileage is better than many.
Fuel injectors seem to be good for 200k or so, but they retail $260-$290 each. Fuel Injection Control Modules (FICM) are dropping like flys, but they are repairable for $200-$350. A new one at the dealer is around a grand with the required reflash. Low battery voltage is often the cause for failure, so we're back to the maintenance issue again.
The factory instrument panel is junk. Speedometer, Tach, and boost is ok but forget temps and pressures. An aftermarket digital monitor and a couple of gauges will put you back in charge though, and given what you plan to use the truck for I wouldn't take it on the first trip without them, they are the key to keeping these trucks alive. Most of the serious failures here on FTE would have given some sort of sign.
Every couple of months someone flames on here about what a piece of crap their trucks have been so it's clear there can be problems. That being said I would be willing to cross country with mine and my 10k lb fithweel and truly expect nothing but an oil change along the way.
Fuel injectors seem to be good for 200k or so, but they retail $260-$290 each. Fuel Injection Control Modules (FICM) are dropping like flys, but they are repairable for $200-$350. A new one at the dealer is around a grand with the required reflash. Low battery voltage is often the cause for failure, so we're back to the maintenance issue again.
The factory instrument panel is junk. Speedometer, Tach, and boost is ok but forget temps and pressures. An aftermarket digital monitor and a couple of gauges will put you back in charge though, and given what you plan to use the truck for I wouldn't take it on the first trip without them, they are the key to keeping these trucks alive. Most of the serious failures here on FTE would have given some sort of sign.
Every couple of months someone flames on here about what a piece of crap their trucks have been so it's clear there can be problems. That being said I would be willing to cross country with mine and my 10k lb fithweel and truly expect nothing but an oil change along the way.
#7
ok so i admit that i am trying to pull to much with a ford. my dodge does it so i figure the ford will as well. i know the 6.0 will never be the 7.3 that i used to have or the 5.9 that i have now. what does it take to make this motor hold up to the longevity of my past ford or is it just a dream and i should skip the 6.0 and look else were for a new puller.
i am really not trying to start a dodge 7.3 6.0 war but i do need a newer truck to pull with
thanks
matt
i am really not trying to start a dodge 7.3 6.0 war but i do need a newer truck to pull with
thanks
matt
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#8
ok (insert "anything can break-no guarantee disclaimer here), It's my impression these trucks do better when worked hard and often. Sitting for extended periods of time and trips to the grocery store is not what it good at. It isn't like many of the older diesel engines as far a maintenance. Fresh oil and filters are key to keeping the injectors alive, no extended oil changes on a 6.0. (or fuel filters either) It's important to use Motorcraft/Racor filters. There are patent issues and the aftermarket work around was a slight re-design requiring adapters or different caps on the filter housing and none of them work well and some of them can even cause damage. With the EGR delete one of the main PITA's is gone. no worry about dumping coolant into the intake if the cooler failed, and less carbon deposits in the intake/cylinders/exhaust. The bottom end seem strong, it makes good power, and fuel mileage is better than many.
Fuel injectors seem to be good for 200k or so, but they retail $260-$290 each. Fuel Injection Control Modules (FICM) are dropping like flys, but they are repairable for $200-$350. A new one at the dealer is around a grand with the required reflash. Low battery voltage is often the cause for failure, so we're back to the maintenance issue again.
The factory instrument panel is junk. Speedometer, Tach, and boost is ok but forget temps and pressures. An aftermarket digital monitor and a couple of gauges will put you back in charge though, and given what you plan to use the truck for I wouldn't take it on the first trip without them, they are the key to keeping these trucks alive. Most of the serious failures here on FTE would have given some sort of sign.
Every couple of months someone flames on here about what a piece of crap their trucks have been so it's clear there can be problems. That being said I would be willing to cross country with mine and my 10k lb fithweel and truly expect nothing but an oil change along the way.
Fuel injectors seem to be good for 200k or so, but they retail $260-$290 each. Fuel Injection Control Modules (FICM) are dropping like flys, but they are repairable for $200-$350. A new one at the dealer is around a grand with the required reflash. Low battery voltage is often the cause for failure, so we're back to the maintenance issue again.
The factory instrument panel is junk. Speedometer, Tach, and boost is ok but forget temps and pressures. An aftermarket digital monitor and a couple of gauges will put you back in charge though, and given what you plan to use the truck for I wouldn't take it on the first trip without them, they are the key to keeping these trucks alive. Most of the serious failures here on FTE would have given some sort of sign.
Every couple of months someone flames on here about what a piece of crap their trucks have been so it's clear there can be problems. That being said I would be willing to cross country with mine and my 10k lb fithweel and truly expect nothing but an oil change along the way.
#9
Just re-read thread and I see what you're getting at. I wasn't recommending an EGR delete. The truck he's looking at already has one.
Last edited by Rusty Axlerod; 12-16-2011 at 09:23 PM. Reason: add
#11
if your going to be towing that weight just get the studs done now. I can tell by the way you word things. If you buy the truck it wont be a week and you will be happy by the way it tows and then in goes the tuner and pop goes the gasket. I have worked my truck into the ground for 150k hard miles and I had a gasket blow. I now have new gaskets studs egr delete bigger down pipe coolant filter rebuilt turbo newoil cooler and a bunch of little things along with all new gaskets and fluids. It costed me a few thousand to get r dun but I fully expect another 150k hard miles. My truck has had very little problems. You will like the power. Take that lift off of there and go back to stock tires if your towing. as stated the 6.0 has its problems but I sure do like pulling 15k next to a 5.9 or a 7.3 going over the pass.
#12
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