My SD won't start! It turns over fine but won't start. I had this issue about 2 weeks ago and thought it was my batteries were low because after I put a charger on my truck for about 2 hours it started right up. Has run fine ever since, no problems starting and runs great - no issues whatsoever.

Today I go out and it turns over, but wont start. Here's a little bit of detail I can provide:
1. After cranking a second or two the oil pressure guage goes up.
2. According to my charger, the batteries are full.
3. My tach does not move when cranking, however my code reader (with live data on) says about 170rpm's when cranking.
4. No stored or pending codes.
5. Have had no issues starting when hot or cold.
6. Has been running and idling perfect, not rough or anything.

The last time this happened about the third time I let it charge a bit and then try starting it started right up. It ran perfect once it started. I did nothing to it but put a charger on it, that's why I thought it was a battery issue.

I looked for the fuel switch (saw on another thread this may be issue) behind the passenger kick panel and there isn't one there, there's five harnesses but no switch. So I couldnt try that.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

it could be ur alternator is going out. have u load-tested tat yet?

also, u might wan to follow the steps in our tech folder and run tests on ur FICM. low voltage from ficm can cause a no-start condition.

check ur hoses for leaks. also, any white smoke once ur started before? if no, then ur good.

hang in there. the good fellas will chime in and provide u wif more help. i'm jus the advance party.

 

I had an alternator problem about three weeks ago and it was replaced. This was the main reason I thought the problem was my batteries a few weeks ago. I did test my alternator after it started the last time I had this problem and it was putting out 13.8 volts.

I get a little bit of smoke in the mornings when it first starts but it goes away pretty quick and runs fine with great power.

I have had a leak on the driver's side of the engine that has been puzzling me but a friend of mine and I found it about a week ago, it was a small crack on the "passenger side" of the degas bottle. Sounds bad but I put some super glue on it as a band aid fix until I found one on Craigslist to install.

 

Update:

Located my ICP (passenger side valve cover towards front) and disconnected it. Tried to start again but won't start.

However.... I've had my charger on the truck the entire time I've been trying to start and this time after I tried starting my charger is saying "Internal Shorted Cell". It did this the last time it wouldn't start and if I unplug the charger and then plug in again it acts as if it's charging fine until I try to start again when it shows the "Internal Shorted Cell" message again.

Side note: Should I also disconnect the negative side of my battery for a minute before try to start my truck with the ICP disconnected? So everything "clears" in the system?

Thanks

 

u dont wan to clear everything from ur system. tat'll make it harder for a tech to diagnose the problem again. they'll wan to charge more jus to get the probs back.

if ur batteries are putting out 13.8 volts, hmmm......tat dun sound right. i still tink u should check ur ficm. sounds like the prob could be coming from there.

did u change ur batteries? maybe it's time for new ones. dont change jus one. change both. i recommend using the motorcraft ones. the largest ones should be 850 cca each. u need high cca for the engine to turn over.

 

ur batteries may not be holding a good charge, and tats why ur getting tat error message. time for new batteries.

 

My alternator puts out 13.8 volts.

I did have a problem with my FICM last year and had the FICM repair done as outlined in the tech thread, my truck ran better and has had no problems. I guess it could still be the FICM, but the way this came and went and my truck has been running fine makes me think it's something electrical like the batteries.

 

I'm with Snuggyworm on the FICM check. Some of heat at the FICM is its location but low power input causes alot of heating on the power supply circuit board as it attempts to maintain 48v output. Your previous alternator problem could have caused a problem with it.
If your scanner has live data, you may be able to see FICM output on it without pulling the cover on the FICM. It is monitored by the trucks PCM. Could you see a value for you ICP with the scanner? I realize you tried unplugging it, just wondering if your scanner could do that.
If the truck is cranking over good I doubt batteries are causing the no-start. If you are cranking with the charger connected, the voltage spike could be tripping the fault light on the charger.

 

Well, it's a Harbor Freight scanner so it gives me limited data. You get what you pay for huh? lol

When cranking it shows far less info then when running, here's all I've been able to get off the display:
DTC_CNT 0 DTC Stored Number
Load Pct% 99.6% Calculated Load Value
ETC (F) 117 Engine Coolant Temperature
RPM(/min) 167 Engine RPM
VSS (mph) 0 Vehicle Speed Sensor
OBD OBD1

I disconnected my batteries and tested - each is showing 12.36 volts. A buddy mentioned I may have volts but not enough amps to start the truck. Ideas? It's turning over fine.

BTW, i have my block heater plugged in so that is why the engine coolant temperature is showing 117 degrees.

I think next move will be ficm test... At least it will be one more thing to check off the list.

 

I think youre on the right track. if it's ok, I'd pull the fuel filter cover and filter (up top by oil filter) and make sure it fills up quick. Should be full (from empty) 3-4 seconds after key is turned on. While the cap is off you may want to check injector o-rings:

Injector o-ring (or other failures) can cause a no-start condition. One easy check for injector problems:

Pull the fuse cover under steering wheel with a flat blade screw driver turn the screws 1/4 of a turn. Pull fuses 20 FICM, 40 Fuel pump, and 103 PCM. You might need a fuse puller or needle nose pliers. Be sure there is fuel above the standpipe. If you want pull fuse 40 last and use the fuel pump momentarily to fill the fuel filter housing. Then have someone crank while you watch for bubbles. Do not crank on it for more than 10 seconds max. This is the easiest way to determine mechanical condition of injectors. What happens is combustion gas will come through the pintle seat and into the fuel gallery in the head and up into the filter.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/81...in-a-6-0l.html


I suspect you have been looking at it already but if not here is a great checklist:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...condition.html

Also, if you have the bucks (about $160) a Scangauge is super helpful. You can check a bunch of stuff from the drivers seat. and monitor vitals when not troubleshooting.

 

Okay. Just got done testing the FICM (man that thing is a PITA to get to for testing!!) and I'm getting 48v with the key on and 48v cranking. So I guess the good news is I can check the FICM off the list of possibilities.

I'm still getting oil pressure while cranking although it takes about 3-5 seconds to build up enough to move the guage.

My truck is turning over real strong but I still wonder about the batteries:
When I was getting everything out of the way to test the FICM I disconnected the batteries and charged each one individually. The passenger side battery started at about 5 amps and charged down to 0 in about 15 minutes. The driver's side battery started at 23 amps and charged down to 0 in about 1hr15min. This seems weird. When I crank the motor for say 10-15 seconds my charger starts charging the batteries all over again and starts at about 13amps.

 

you can check the ficm off the list for now but keep in mind just because you had 48 volts doesnt mean the FICM is GOOD

when you cycle the key on can you hear the fuel pump running

almost to the point that your going to need a better scanner to check the truck with

 

Yes I believe I can. It seems to be making the normal sounds when the key is turned.

This thing is driving me crazy!!

 

pull the upper fuel filter cap off and suck out the fuel then when you cycle the key see if it fills fast

do you know where your ICP sensor is oh ya you unplugged it check it with a DVM while cranking it you need a minimum of .80 volts to start

have you pulled and cleaned the egr valve yet make shure its not stuck open

 

Do the injectors Buzz when you cycle the key to KOEO