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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

2004 6.0 No Start - Please help

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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 07:07 PM
  #16  
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also look at the fan shroud right at this

make shurew the wires are not severed/chaffe


 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 07:16 PM
  #17  
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I think I saw a thread somewhere as to how to test the ICP, so I will do that.

As to the EGR, it's been unplugged for months.

My charger is saying the batteries are fully charged again so I don't think it would hurt to go get them load tested.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 07:17 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
also look at the fan shroud right at this

make shurew the wires are not severed/chaffe
I'll go do that, on the passenger side I assume?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 07:27 PM
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Found it! Driver's side.

Looks good, no cracks or worn wires. Connection is tight.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 07:27 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Javo
I'll go do that, on the passenger side I assume?

More on the driver side fan shroud

Id still pull the egr valve make shure it didnt get Blown open
Its also best if you plug it in its wired in with the fan control the fan dont work right when unplugged EGR Valve

I will give ya link about that EGR unplugged


Unplugged EGR VALVE & the problems that follow
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...egr-valve.html

Better to egr deleate it and keep the egr valve plugged in for fan operation a Full egr deleate you may overheat with the egr valve unplugged and WARP your HEADS

cant remember what years Cheezit covered but I read threads on ALL Years and an unplugged egr valve AFFECTS ALLL Years

This was just the only link that I saved sorrey
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 11:20 PM
  #21  
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Have the batteries been load tested? I know it seems so minimal but I had a bad cell in a battery cost me $750 one time both batteries read over 12.5 volts and were toast. and a day of wrenching in 2' of mud on a job. Thats another story. It may seem unlikely but if he does have a bad cell or a broken off post inside the battery and the voltage is dropping when it is cranking being that the starter is sucking the life from the bad battery/batteries this could be an issue? I would have them load tested for safe measure.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 11:42 PM
  #22  
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I plan to do that in the morning. I put the charger on tonight so they (in theory) will be fully charged so they can be load tested. I think i'll take them to the Advance Auto Parts store by my house.

The ones in there now are a little over a year old and came from WalMart. I didn't buy them, they came with the truck.

Hopefully, I can post good news tomorrow. Otherwise i'll keep testing things off of Bismic's no start list and post results seeking input.

Thanks for the help guys!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 06:02 AM
  #23  
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hope ur able to find the root source of the prob. sounds like ur making progress. best of luck!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 12:26 PM
  #24  
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So I go out this morning to remove my batteries(had the charger on all night) to get them tested and figured I'd just try to start the truck out of curiousity. Started right up! It ran fine, no major smoke and idled prefectly.

Since the batteries were a WalMart(still under warranty) brand I removed them and dropped them off for testing. They told me it would take about one hour per battery to test. They just called me (about an hour later) and said the batteries were fine and showed 850cca.

So now what? I think I will still take them to Advance Auto and have them check them as well just to get a second opinion.

This is crazy!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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Get a battery hydrometer and check each cell of the batterys

Sometimes a battery can make up for a bad cell especialy if just charged

If you have an auto tranny next time it wont start wiggle the gearselector and then try to start

intermittened problems suck
 
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 01:22 PM
  #26  
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Another rule of thumb check is to let the batteries set over night hooked up in the truck with no charger on. You should have a min. voltage reading in the morning of 12.5 volts with 12.7 being the optimum reading.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 01:32 PM
  #27  
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Not sure why everyone is thinking the batteries HAVE to be bad? This started as a "cranks fine-won't start" issue.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 01:36 PM
  #28  
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So Advance tested my batteries for me and here's what they told me:
One battery tested okay, 845cca. The other battery was showing 880cca, however the battery is rated for 850cca. I was told this is a sign that there is (or could be) a shorted cell or something wrong with that battery. They recommend replacing this one.

Advice? Not sure how accurate their diagnosis is.

BTW - I did try moving my gear selector yesterday and that didn't help.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 01:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
Another rule of thumb check is to let the batteries set over night hooked up in the truck with no charger on. You should have a min. voltage reading in the morning of 12.5 volts with 12.7 being the optimum reading.
Thanks for the advice CJ. I just want your Stang!!!!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2011 | 05:31 PM
  #30  
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Update: Well I decided to replace the one "bad" battery with a new one. The truck starts and runs great. Took it for a test drive, runs like a champ. Brought it home and have started it about 4 times, no problems.

Thanks for the help and input. Hopefully I won't have to bring this thread back to life again!

Merry Christmas!
 
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