Just picked up a '95 F'150 4x4 last week with a 5.0 and auto transmission. Getting her fixed up and using as a daily driver. Some issues I've been seeing are: she cold starts fine and idles great. When I go to pull away (when cold) she really stumbles. 1-2 min of driving and she runs like a top, issue is totally gone. Also, when cruising around 30-40 mph she'll stumble when I put a load on it (like going to pass) occassionally. Pulled 565 (canister purge solenoid circuit fault) & 212 (loss of ignition diagnostic monitor signal/ SPOUT circuit grounded) codes today with my new reader. Looking for some advice on how exactly to troubleshoot/ correct them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
Fungus

 

I would start by checking all of the grounds. You may either have a ground circuitry issue or there is a problem with the fuel pump.
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) 556 indicates a fuel pump primary circuit failure.

Possible causes:
Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) switch not reset or electrically open (if in primary circuit).
Open or shorted circuit.
Damaged fuel pump relay.
Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM) .

Disconnect fuel pump relay.
Key "ON", engine "OFF".
Measure voltage between VPWR circuit at the fuel pump relay vehicle harness connector and chassis ground.
The voltage should be greater than 10.5 volts?

If not then the relay may be bad.

If the volts were good and the relay ohms out good then--
Verify integrity of IFS (Inertia Fuel Shutoff)switch. If OK, service open in VPWR circuit between the Electronic Engine Controls (EEC) power relay and the fuel pump relay.

But as first mentioned check all grounds for proper connections.

The above is for a newer model truck I could not find that code for yours

 

Code 565: Canister purge circuit failure

It is not an indication of a fuel pump issue. Very rare this code causes driveability issues,

Code 212: Loss of IDM input to EEC or SPOUT circuit grounded.

What color Ignition Control Module do you have? It should be black (CCD style). Many parts manuals are wrong, you may have the wrong one.

 

The OP stated they were getting DTC 565....

 

Thanks for the help! The ICM is most certainly GREY (pic attached) with a Napa label on it. Looks like someone swapped in the wrong one.

Is there any reccommendation on replacement ie; Ford Dealer, Napa or O'rielly? Do they make a special socket to get in there and loosen those tiny hex head screws? None of my small 1/4" drive sockets can get in there!

Here's the one they've got at O'rielly down the street that looks to be correct:

BWD CBE40 - Ignition Control Module | O'Reilly Auto Parts

 

Motorcraft is the recommended replacement. Although I have an AC-Delco in mine right now for the last several months.

Motorcraft Part No.# info: Motorcraft DY1077 - Ignition Control Unit | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Reference info here: Ford TFI Ignition Control Modules - FSB Forums

Yes there is a special tool available to remove the screws. You can use a thin wall 7/32 or 5.5MM socket too.

I have one of these: Lisle Ignition Module wrench at Advance Auto Parts

 

Awesome and thanks for the help! Hopefully swapping this out will help with the small (annoying) issues I'm seeing.

Fungus

 

Swapped the ICM out with the new BWD-CBE40 from O'rielly. Seat of the pants is telling me it's better. True test will be tomorrow morn when she's cold. Seems the 30mph sputter is now gone.

Thanks for the help!
Fungus

 

Let me start by thanking this forum and especially rla2005 for the great advice!

2nd, apparently I had no idea what a great running 5.0L was really like as I "thought" it ran great before with some idiosynchracies...

Replaced the ICM yesterday with the aforementioned BWD part from O'rielly. Jumped in this morning & she fired right up (easier than previous days). Smoother idle and roared away from the curb without a single stumble. With the new ICM this rig runs AMAZING! Can't wait to get my newly rebuilt MAF 5.0 swapped into the '69 Bronco now...

Thanks again for the help!
Fungus

 

Thanks for reporting back the truck is running better! I did neglect/assume that you knew to use some heat sink compound/thermal paste on the back of that ICM. I hope it continues to work well for you.

Be sure to click the "heart" in the header of one of these posts to add to a users reputation!

 

I didn't have any at the time of install and noticed it on the instructions that came with the ICM. Also noticed the greasy type clear paste on the old one coming off. Of'course the box didn't have the tube in it that said came with the part. I need to go back today and get some! Is it something I can get in the isle at the parts store?

 

My ICM came with a little tube......but it is usually available at the parts store. If not go to Radio Shack.

Thanks for the rep point!

 

My instructions that came w/ the ICM said to "use included tube" but there was no tube in the box. Someone must have fingered it before I got the part... I'll just go back and get them to "finger" me a tube as it should've been included! Is it just dielectric grease? If so, I've got some of that.

 

No, it is different. Much thicker consistency and it melts at a higher temperature. Typically it is a creamy white texture.

 

I see I made a fat finger hit on the code entry. Thanks for catching that.