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I pull a 20ft enclosed all over the south, and lost my brakes about 2 months back. Havent had much time so I kinda let it slide, but with winter here and ice a comin I gotta get these brakes working to keep me out of the ditch.
Anyhow, there were a couple of frayed wires on the trailer hubs, got those fixed. But now there is only 2.75v (at gain level 10, made 2.3 at 7.5) coming out of my trailer plug receptacle for the brake wire. That would be the light blue wire trailer side, and truck side the bottom right pin.
My controller is on, where it wasnt before I fixed the broken wires. So I thought maybe I had a bad fuse somewhere, but I checked 20, 28 and 101, all seem to be fine. Im stumped, any help would be appreciated.
You have an '05, correct? Integrated brake controller?
Stop me if my asumptions are incorrect.
You won't get much voltage out of the IBC when the truck is sitting still. On the '05, even using the levers on the front of the controller puts out very little voltage. You have to be moving above 25MPH or so for a good strong output from that controller.
So, take a drive, and try the override levers. If they work, then try the service brake and see if it is working. You may have already fixed the problem when you repaired the wiring.
I cant believe I didnt say what truck I have....Im a donk! It is an 05 F 250 with the integrated controller. You were right on. Im gonna go slap the wheels on it and take it around town and see if the brakes work
By the way, when the brakes worked you could hold the lever on the front of the controller and stop the truck. Which is no mean feat, the truck could pull a fat kid off a fried chicken. But I clamped the lever in the on position and I can still turn the hubs by hand.
I dont know if this means anything or not, but Im not too optimistic about the brakes working at higher speeds. Guess Ill know in a bit.
Ok, I got the wheels on the trailer and started down the street. Got up to the recommended 25 mph and whacked the trailer brakes and nothing.... The little trailer on the brake controller went from green to red and started flashing, and I got a trailer fault error on the gauge cluster.
Do you know someone with another trailer? Might be good to eliminate either the truck, or the trailer, as the problem. Then you'll be halfway done.
I suspect the trailer since you already had problems with it, but it could be wiring problems on the truck, or even a bad brake controller module. That's about all I got.
If you have a battery on the trailer so you can power the break-away, leave the trailer hitched, but disconnect the seven pin and pull the break away pin. If the trailer brakes are working you will not be able to budge the trailer.
I have a similar problem, I get trailer disconnected on the dash. I lifted the axle with the brakes, pull the breakaway pin and the wheels locked. I took the truck to Ford, they cannot find anything wrong with the brake controller. I never taken off the hub on these electric brakes to check the relays. Someone says I may have a bad ground, how do I diagnose a bad ground?
I have a similar problem, I get trailer disconnected on the dash. I lifted the axle with the brakes, pull the breakaway pin and the wheels locked. I took the truck to Ford, they cannot find anything wrong with the brake controller. I never taken off the hub on these electric brakes to check the relays. Someone says I may have a bad ground, how do I diagnose a bad ground?
Marty
Simplest way is to run a new ground between truck and trailer. Take a jumper cable and attach it to a clean spot on your truck frame and your trailer frame. They are now grounded together or should be, provided you make good contact. If that helps, you have problem with the seven pin on your truck making good connection with the seven pin lead from your trailer
But I will tell you this. In my experience most RV dealerships are much better at troubleshooting problems with trailer brakes than Ford dealerships.
On my 99 model the plug ground was connected to the frame at about 1/2 the length of the bed. Even it was good looking 3/8" bolt, there was no connection on the cable even my truck doesn't have much rust on it. I sanded the connection clean, put some never seize and retorqued it.
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