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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

95 PSD cutting out

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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 09:23 PM
  #16  
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fordpride
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From: Livoina,La
Originally Posted by bearhugger
Can anyone tell him if he can check codes without a meter.
Not that I know of you could try and post in your state chapter and see if someone close to you would come scan it for you.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 01:13 PM
  #17  
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brooksbronco17
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From: Dundas, IL
Originally Posted by bearhugger
Can anyone tell him if he can check codes without a meter.
Pretty sure you can't.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 07:10 PM
  #18  
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The OP never posted back about whether replacing the camshaft position sensor worked, but his description of the problem perfectly describes what was happening with my '97 Power Stroke. Pulling a camp trailer the jerking was pretty violent whenever the engine would cut out for a split second. Today I replaced the fuel filter with no improvement, so then I replaced the CPS and the engine hasn't cut out on me since. Broke two cheap 10mm sockets getting the bolt off, but it was worth it.
 
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 07:48 PM
  #19  
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91 Dually
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From: Cross Lanes, WV
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Mine would quit at low speed. Like while looking for a spot on a parking lot. Or backing into the driveway. Replaced the cps and fixed it.... Then it did it a few times while driving at 60mph or so. One day just shut down and wouldnt start back up.. Turned out the ipr was bad
 
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Old Apr 24, 2012 | 07:49 PM
  #20  
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Physics Outlaw
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From: Away from Zombies
Originally Posted by bashby
No.. not sure what that is but I'll search it. I picked up a cps from Napa, hopefully it will work as well as an oem. Didnt get to try it out, had to replace the fuel tank and that didnt go well. Fought the quick disconnect for .5 hr+... they should call them quick connects, they do that fine but when it comes to disconnecting them, they can be a real PITA. I'm gonna replace the cam sensor tommorow or the next day when I can get back over there, I'll post results. I'm still wondering if you can check codes manually.
Did the cam sensor fix your issue? I just ordered one for my truck today.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 01:33 PM
  #21  
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msmenne17
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From: Lunchtown
I just put in a CPS from Advance Auto Parts. It's made by BWD (OEM for Ford) and is BLACK. All of the other auto parts stores carry the aftermarket grey ones (crappy and last maybe 6 months). We'll see how long this one lasts.

Bad CPS will cause weird issues with stalling. Mine would stall on the highway at 65MPH, then have a hard time getting started again. Or it would stall coming to a stop. It's a PITA. I usually have a spare with me just in case. It's probably the most common cause of a PSD acting funky like this.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2012 | 11:31 PM
  #22  
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jmpape
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CPS was my issue

My 1997 PSD started running strangely after stopping at a stop light tonight. It started to roll, lost all power for a few seconds, then caught and ran ok to the next light. Same story. When I got home, I checked codes, P1111, so nothing there. I fired up the computer and checked out what you guys had to say.

After reading this thread, I tackled changing the CPS. The previous owner, thankfully had a spare in the glovebox. I located it on the block, applied some torque to a 10mm and removed the old and installed the new one. The O ring on the new gave me a little trouble, didn't want to go into the block, kept squeezing out the side. Some Delo 15w40 lubricant and it slid in properly. I refired the truck and it ran very rough for about 15 seconds. The idle changed, got smooth, and I have my old reliable back.

Thanks FTE!
 
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 06:40 AM
  #23  
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Physics Outlaw
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From: Away from Zombies
Originally Posted by jmpape
My 1997 PSD started running strangely after stopping at a stop light tonight. It started to roll, lost all power for a few seconds, then caught and ran ok to the next light. Same story. When I got home, I checked codes, P1111, so nothing there. I fired up the computer and checked out what you guys had to say.

After reading this thread, I tackled changing the CPS. The previous owner, thankfully had a spare in the glovebox. I located it on the block, applied some torque to a 10mm and removed the old and installed the new one. The O ring on the new gave me a little trouble, didn't want to go into the block, kept squeezing out the side. Some Delo 15w40 lubricant and it slid in properly. I refired the truck and it ran very rough for about 15 seconds. The idle changed, got smooth, and I have my old reliable back.

Thanks FTE!
I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to give the details on socket size, the 15w40 for the O ring. My part should arrive soon and this information gives me a headstart on gettin' her done.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 07:21 AM
  #24  
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Socket size

I should have added, it died in the driveway and my tools were in the shop out back. Took me three trips to finally get the right one. It was a 10mm six point deep socket on a 3/8" drive ratchet. I could reach it with my 1/4" regular socket, but it was TIGHT and I pulled til I thought I would break the little socket. I couldnt reach it with The 3/8" drive regular (another trip) so went with the deep and I only have that in six point. This seems obvious now, but I got it from the bottom...laying on my back. I didn't have to remove any belts, hoses or other. Good luck, hope you get it running soon.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 01:48 PM
  #25  
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I spoke too soon. Truck was worse this morning. Hard starting, no power, blue smoke. Now what?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #26  
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fordpride
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From: Livoina,La
Wiggle the wires going to the CPS and try it again
 
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 06:35 PM
  #27  
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From: Away from Zombies
Put in a new CPS today

This is on my 1996 F250 with the 7.3L





Works good now and my fingers are crossed that it continues.
 
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