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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Kingpin Noise

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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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Kingpin Noise

When I hit small bumps a clunk/chatter (depending on what im driving over) comes from the front wheels I have checked the front bearings, brake calipers and all of the other possibilities but here is my problem....I have replaced the kingpins and bushings. My biggest worry is that the axle eyelet is distorted and this maybe where the play is coming from. I remember that when I took the keeper pin out of the axle the kingpin fell right out....so I'm looking for anyone who may have had a similar situation or maybe can the axle eyelet be sleeved? I am going crazy trying to find this noise it has gotten pretty bad any 2 cents is appreciated!!! thanks in advance!!!
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 08:25 PM
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If it is the kingpin, you should be able to jack the front of the truck up(support it under the axle) and grab the tire and 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle it. If you can get someone else to do this while you look, you should be able to see it moving around the kingpin.

These trucks are still pretty common in the junkyards, so I am not sure I would go to the trouble to repair it if you can just get used good ones.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 08:45 PM
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Is it possible to switch to the ball joint style if I find a good donor? and I would take the spindles also but what else may factor in?
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 08:56 PM
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So I lifted the truck from the axles and get about an 1/8" play when I wiggle from top to bottom also when I thump the top of the tire from the side I can reproduce the clunk I hear on road.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 10:51 AM
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IMO, kingpins will last a lot longer than ball joints. When properly cared for, e.g. lubricated, they last practically forever. The problem is that a lot of people forget to lubricate them, especially after going off road or through a lot of water.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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You should be able to swap to the later ball joint style as long as you get the entire axle, spindle, brakes, etc. Then for sure it will work. If you start mixing and matching brake and spindle components, I am not so sure about that.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 07:12 PM
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Where is that verticle play? Are you certain it's not in the hub/wheel bearings? If you verify it is in fact fomr the lower king pin I would disassemble and see if it is the C on the axle that is worn or if it is the lower pin that fits up through the C. You can get that lower king pin piece brand new, so if that's all that's worn replace it and see where that puts you. Or measure the good side to the bad side, both the C and the lower king pins to verify where the problem is.

A ball joint leaf sprung axle from '93 (I think) to '97 will bolt right in... I would not run a ball joint axle in my truck though. They are weaker. Ball joints wear and cause problems. King pins last just about forever and can't be knocked out of alignment unless something breaks, in which case you just rebuild the king pins. There is no advantage to a ball joint axle over a king pin axle.

Is the truck lifted? What size tires do you run? More power than stock? Locker in front? If you answered yes to any of these, keep it king pin. Ball joint axles are fine for stock trucks which aren't used heavily or abused, but use them for real and it'll be more maintenance.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 03:13 AM
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Nope all stock....where I think the eyelet on the axle is out of round is because the truck originally had the snow plow HD springs and never had any weight on the nose of the truck
 
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 08:57 AM
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Also note you can get new Dana 60 king pin C's for the axle ends. Unless you're well equipped you'd need to bring the axle to a fab shop to align it properly and weld it on. Cost would likely be less than the $500-$1000 market price for a used Dana 60 that needs anything from an outer rebuild to a total rebuild. Alternatively if your existing C isn't terribly bad you would weld it up and grind it down until you have a proper fit.

Post pictures and measurements and we can advise better. You never answered where the slop is? Did you observe that it is specifically on the lower king pin? You are certain you don't have a broken spring, broken cone, or other preload problems on the upper king pin/cone?
 
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 10:59 AM
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I believe the slop is coming from the axle eyelet where the king pin passes through the axle the kingpin and bushings have been replaced and the front bearings and races are in good condition this is a 4X2 truck I was hoping that the eyelet could be sleeved
 
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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Ford in progress
I believe the slop is coming from the axle eyelet where the king pin passes through the axle the kingpin and bushings have been replaced and the front bearings and races are in good condition this is a 4X2 truck I was hoping that the eyelet could be sleeved
The eyelet in the I-beam (or axle) should not be a wear point. The pin does not move around in this location, unless the locking pin is loose/missing.
If the pin is flopping around in the axle eyelet, and the locking pin is properly installed, then perhaps the wrong king pins were used, IE wrong diameter.
You stated it is a 2wd, but didn't state what version, F100/150/250/350 nor what year. 80/81 F100/150 have king pins, while late 81-86 F100/150 use ball joints. The F250/350 80-86 all used king pins, but there was more than 1 size used, IIRC.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 02:56 AM
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the truck is a 1986 F-250 above 8600lbs....the king pin has to be the wrong diameter I will check it this weekend and we will see....
 
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Old Jan 1, 2012 | 02:08 AM
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upgradeing to the 94 ball joint front axle.....taking the radius arms, spindles and axle and went in seamlessly!!! no slop now!!!!
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 10:28 AM
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Can't beat that!
 
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