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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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Electrical Problem

I have a FASS HPFP. I wired it from the negative of the battery and the positive of the original fuel pump wire. It has an inline fuse and plug to connect/disconnect right at the pump.

The pump worked perfect, no problems at all from install until yesterday. I disconnected the plug at the pump last week when I installed my DP Tuner and new injectors. So the pump was disconnected for about a week during the mod's install.

I connected it yesterday and it did not work. The connection at the negative battery terminal looked a little bent as I have been working over the battery a lot during the install so I changed that and then the pump worked. I started the truck and it ran great but only for about 10 min and then the pump stopped and the truck died.

If I let the truck sit for 10 min the pump will then work for 1 min (about). But after it dies if I try turn the truck on the pump does not work. Almost like there is a over heating switch that is being set and reset. Or maybe not enough amps are getting to it?

I traced the + and - wires from start to pump and they look good. pulled the inline fuse and cleaned the terminals put grease on it and put it back in, same with the plug. Same thing, runs for a little bit then shuts off.

What else could it be?? It can't be from the new DP Tuner right? It has to be something with the wires in my mind since after I fixed the one terminal it worked for a while.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 09:18 AM
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wow sorry that is so long but its a wired intermittent problem so I wanted to give all the info I could about it.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 09:50 AM
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That pump draws a lot more power than your stock one. I would not try to run it off the stock wireing but install a relay instead. Run a 12 gauge wire from the battery +, through the 30 amp fuse, through the relay to the pump. Use the stock fuel pump wire or some other switched wire in the panel to control the relay. The ground wire can be connected to the frame right at the pump's mounting area.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 11:02 AM
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OK ran a new 12 gauge wire from the battery into the cab through a 30 amp breaker then down to the fuel pump. This was mostly done already b/c I had these wires ran from the WVO system. The pump now turns on every time and definitely sounds stronger than it did with the other wiring. So I think and really hope that is fixed. But now the truck wont start. my wait to start light is not coming on at all. did I blow a fuse? The power to the relay was already spliced into for the WVO system so I don't think it has to do with that.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 11:07 AM
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Check fuse no. 30
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 12:41 PM
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checked all fuses, they are all good.

It just keeps cranking but wont start and no wait to start light.

what could it be??
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 01:03 PM
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Could it be flooded?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 04:34 PM
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No WTS light means the PCM is not getting power. Did you check the fuses under the hood as well. Did you check them with a test light or volt meter, or just visually. You need to use a test light or meter.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 04:44 PM
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I did check the PCM fuses under the hood but only visually. Does this mean I could have installed my DP Tuner wrong?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 05:17 PM
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Messing with a chip while the keys are in the ignition can fry the chip and the PCM.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 07:23 PM
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OK so good news and bad news. Good news is you are the man Paul, I didn't know that the wts light ment no power to PCM so I checked the 10mm bolt and it was loose. I tightened it a bit and turned the key on, tapped the PCM with my foot and the wts light went out.

So I tightened it more and bad news is may have over tightened it and it did not fix the problem.

I guess I need to take the PCM out again and clean the terminals and put some grease on them? Maybe that will fix the problem? Or maybe the firewall/insulation is in the way a bit, it doesn't look like it but I can't see all the way around the PCM.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 07:24 PM
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OK so good news and bad news. Good news is you are the man Paul, I didn't know that the wts light ment no power to PCM so I checked the 10mm bolt and it was loose. I tightened it a bit and turned the key on, tapped the PCM with my foot and the wts light went out.

So I tightened it more and bad news is may have over tightened it and it did not fix the problem.

I guess I need to take the PCM out again and clean the terminals and put some grease on them? Maybe that will fix the problem? Or maybe the firewall/insulation is in the way a bit, it doesn't look like it but I can't see all the way around the PCM.
 
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