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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #1  
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cornking
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From: Mexico
Clutch Problems

For the last month my clutch has starting to feel soft and not fully engaging. I checked the fluid level and had to add some and had to add more a couple of days later. That tell me I have a problem.

I took the truck to my trusty mechanic, Gustavo. He crawled underneath and found the slave cyclinder was leaking. The next day we replaced it and bleed the line. The clutch still felt soft and would not fully engage.

Gus took apart the old slave cylinder and found rust inside. He now believes that since water has gotten into the system the master cylinder is not sending the fluid at high enough pressure to the slave and is bad also.

He says I need a master and slave cylinder and the hydraulic line that runs in between them. I don't know how many miles are on the clutch so I am thinking of changing that also.

How does his diagnosis sound to you guys?

I am driving to the States and can pick up parts while in TX. What should I buy and where should I buy it?

Muchos Gracias
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 12:05 PM
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When you say that the clutch "would not fully engage" do you mean that it is slipping?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 05:32 PM
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From: Mexico
No, it is not slipping it stays in gear and won't and won't shift. When I start it with the clutch depressed the truck wants to roll.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 05:46 PM
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it isn't fully disengaging. Not sure how rust would get into the system when most of it is plastic. I don't see a need to replace the line between, unless it were leaking.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 05:51 PM
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Rust in a plastic slave cylinder, I am curious how one would get water, maybe condensation, I guess. I would check all points in the clutch pedals and linkage (rod to master cylinder) for slack also the firewall for master cylinder movement. I have also had a cracked bellhousing cause this. but the clutch discs wore down too much can cause it, and the pilot bearing freezing up can also cause it.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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From: Mexico
I don't know how moisture and rust got in there either, but I saw it when Gus took the Slave apart to find out why it failed. There is a metal spring in there that was rusted.

I live in the tropics and we had a tremendous amount of rain this summer and it is always humid, so condensation is a real possibility.

We did check the firewall for cracks and movement and everything looked good.

I am driving to Texas from southeast Mexico (driving either 7.3 psd dully or 6.0 Excursion, nice power compared to my truck) to pick up a couple of boats. Since I am going to be in the States, Gustavo suggests that I purchase a master cylinder and a clutch kit. So my truck is going to sit until I get back with the parts.

I don't know how many miles are on my clutch and labor is super cheap here. If I want to do a complete new clutch with new master and slave cylinders, what should I buy and where do you guy suggest I purchase everything.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 07:41 PM
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For the clutch kit, if you can call ahead to a location and make sure they have it in stock would be wise, as they are not always in stock. The other problem you will encounter with that plan is the flywheel. It has what is called a dual mass, meaning there are two moving components to the flywheel, and there will be no way to know if it is bad or not until you are into the job.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 08:32 PM
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Maybe I have been lucky, but so far have never seen the clutch itself wear out on the dual mass flywheel, it is usually the flywheel and you can tell it when you kill the motor.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 08:26 PM
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From: Mexico
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I was looking online and came across this site Ford F250/F350/F450 Clutch, Ford F250/F350/F450 Clutches, Ford F250/F350/F450 Clutch Kit The have the master and slave cylinders.

Getting back to the original symptoms I have that wrote about in the 1st post, my clutch won't pump up and have that very stiff feel it always did. I think if he found some rust in the slave than master and the whole system must be contaminated. $120 and I can change them out.

I only speak Spinglish and Gustavo only speaks Spanglish so sometimes things get lost in the translation. Gus knows parts are not easy to come by for my truck in Mexico. I am in the process of driving the 1500 miles to Texas. I know he needs the hydraulics parts and for another $185 I get a new clutch. I think he is looking at it as preventative maintenance. It won't cost me that much to have him install the new clutch too.

Do you think I should go with a new clutch too or am I wasting money?

BTW, I am taking turns driving a 99 F-350 dully with a 7.3PSD and a 2003 Excursion with a 6.0 PSD. They both have auto transmissions. We have been cruising at about 75-85 mph and have the get up and go to pass on these 2 lane road we are on. I a not sure that I will be able to go back to my N/A 7.3 and be happy again.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:15 PM
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Exclamation

Originally Posted by cornking
I only speak Spinglish and Gustavo only speaks Spanglish so sometimes things get lost in the translation. Gus knows parts are not easy to come by for my truck in Mexico.
Can't you find someone anywhere to translate for you - get him on a 3-way phone call with you & Gustavo - shouldn't be that hard to get perfectly clear.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:21 PM
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By the way, if your slave cylinder is external to your transmission, removing and replacing the hydraulics is very simple, just bolt on & bolt off. I don't know the case for your particular vehicle - but if Gustavo could remove the slave cylinder without attacking your clutch, the slave was probably outside the transmission. Replacing the clutch & flywheel is a completely different operation.
I have had intermittent problems with my clutch hydraulics which gave the impression the clutch itself was malfunctioning, but it turned out not to be the case. Internal leakage in the hydraulics will sometimes result in the clutch remaining partly engaged through no fault of its own, it is just not getting sufficient action from the slave cylinder to move it. Rust in your hydraulic line could certainly cause internal leakage by jamming O-rings open. So could oil-canning of the firewall.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 08:40 PM
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From: Mexico
Originally Posted by artfd
By the way, if your slave cylinder is external to your transmission, removing and replacing the hydraulics is very simple, just bolt on & bolt off. I don't know the case for your particular vehicle - but if Gustavo could remove the slave cylinder without attacking your clutch, the slave was probably outside the transmission. Replacing the clutch & flywheel is a completely different operation.
I have had intermittent problems with my clutch hydraulics which gave the impression the clutch itself was malfunctioning, but it turned out not to be the case. Internal leakage in the hydraulics will sometimes result in the clutch remaining partly engaged through no fault of its own, it is just not getting sufficient action from the slave cylinder to move it. Rust in your hydraulic line could certainly cause internal leakage by jamming O-rings open. So could oil-canning of the firewall.
While I was driving the last 10 hours I came to pretty much the same conclusion as you. It is probably just the hydraulics and not the clutch. Everything was working fine until the fluid leak. I am going to get a new master, slave, and the hydraulic line that runs between them.

Another question, if my flywheel is good is there much involved in putting in a new clutch and bearings?
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cornking
Another question, if my flywheel is good is there much involved in putting in a new clutch and bearings?
Yes, its quite a operation, totally unnecessary if there is no real problem.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:06 PM
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From: Faibanks Ak.
Another question, if my flywheel is good is there much involved in putting in a new clutch and bearings?

You are looking at 4 or 5 hours labor, but your truck should have the dual mass flywheel and it usually wears out before the clutch disc.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:59 PM
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One thing to throw out there before you spend a bunch on parts. These hydraulic systems are hard to bleed, often it takes a while of driving on a bumpy road to loosen up the air bubbles and work them out. This is a big possibility if the pedal is soft and its not disengaging.
 
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