Clutch Problems
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 567
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Mexico
One thing to throw out there before you spend a bunch on parts. These hydraulic systems are hard to bleed, often it takes a while of driving on a bumpy road to loosen up the air bubbles and work them out. This is a big possibility if the pedal is soft and its not disengaging.
We tried to bleed the system for a 1/2 hour together. It would feel ok then I would drive around the pueblo and it would get hard to shift and would disengage. He had the truck the rest of the day and then asked for the new master and slave cylinders and clutch kit. I pretty sure it is not a bleeding problem.
I still have a couple of days until I reach the border and have to decide.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Mexico
Be sure to read my post on my own hydraulic clutch problem.
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 567
Likes: 1
There are 2 about the hydraulic clutch:
Movement of clutch master cylinder when clutch is activated - YouTube
Clutch Actuator of 1983 Ford F250HD with 4spd transmission - YouTube
Movement of clutch master cylinder when clutch is activated - YouTube
Clutch Actuator of 1983 Ford F250HD with 4spd transmission - YouTube
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 567
Likes: 1
Now that my clutch seems to be working normally, it still makes a loud clunk.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Mexico
I ordered a clutch master and slave cylinders. I see that there are different priced clutch kits ranging from $140-450. What are the differences between them? I use my truck as an everyday driver and with my camper. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 3,493
Likes: 3
From: NY
This is what is in my truck, comes with everything you will need. Get a different pilot and throwout bearing though. Kevlar pilot bearing and a napa or motorcraft throwout bearing.
Ford F250-F450 7.3L diesel clutch 88-94 07-131 w/fly N | eBay
Ford F250-F450 7.3L diesel clutch 88-94 07-131 w/fly N | eBay
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
I am not sure what you would be getting in the 140 to 450 price range. The clutch kits with a dual mass flywheel used to be a lot more expensive than that. I know they have come down, but it would suprise me if you can buy one for 450 bucks, and the 140 would have to be a partial kit.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Mexico
I believe the clutch kits I am looking at don't include the flywheel, just the disk and bearings. If I should get different bearings than maybe I can just buy a disk.
The man at the auto parts store told me he could get 3 different clutches. One was a ceramic clutch that he thought would work well. I will be at the store tomorrow. What do you guys think?
BTW, a 5 hour clutch job will only cost me approx. 60 labor. Gotta love Mexico for that reason.
The man at the auto parts store told me he could get 3 different clutches. One was a ceramic clutch that he thought would work well. I will be at the store tomorrow. What do you guys think?
BTW, a 5 hour clutch job will only cost me approx. 60 labor. Gotta love Mexico for that reason.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 10,501
Likes: 5
From: Faibanks Ak.
Like I said the flywheel usually wears out before the clutch. If I was going to swap even just the clutch disc, I would go with a new throw out bearing for sure. Does he have a kelvar disc for it.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Mexico
I just got back home from the States with a new master, slave and hydrolic line between the two. Gustavo installed them a couple of days ago. Sometimes the clutch feels good and other times it is soft and hard to get into gear. I pump and pump and pump some more to get the clutch pedal to firm up and then I am able to get it into gear. Some times I have to double pump the clutch just to get it shift while driving.
I am having a hell of a time bleeding all the air out.
I have been reading past posts regarding this problem. I have driven down the bumpy roads we have here in Mexico. Do you think that rubber insert in the master cylinder is keeping the air from coming out? I am not sure what else to try, suggestions?
I am having a hell of a time bleeding all the air out.
I have been reading past posts regarding this problem. I have driven down the bumpy roads we have here in Mexico. Do you think that rubber insert in the master cylinder is keeping the air from coming out? I am not sure what else to try, suggestions?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,737
Likes: 179
From: Western Mass
I think the rubber insert is to keep air (and thus moisture) away from the brake fluid sitting in the reservoir. I shouldn't have any effect on bleeding. Stupid question, you are pulling the rubber insert out and putting the brake fluid underneath it right??
Make sure you also check the level with the rubber insert out. While bleeding, it make suck some down and you'll need to replace a bit of fluid so check to make sure its topped off and drive around some more.
Make sure you also check the level with the rubber insert out. While bleeding, it make suck some down and you'll need to replace a bit of fluid so check to make sure its topped off and drive around some more.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: Mexico
We have tried bleeding it through the slave cylinder and we are not getting all the air out. I have driven down these very bumpy Mexican roads for the last 2 days and I still have to pump the clutch to shift gears. After pumping couple of times it slides easily into gear, but it looses stiffness in the pedal quickly and get hard to shift.
I have read that this is a pain in the a-- but it is getting frustrating now. Do you think the rubber insert can prevent the air caught in the system from raising up into the master cylinder?
I have read that this is a pain in the a-- but it is getting frustrating now. Do you think the rubber insert can prevent the air caught in the system from raising up into the master cylinder?