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built in air compressor???

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  #16  
Old 10-02-2016, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by shameless
so, with 300 psi rated parts, you don't see any reason why this might not work, or any reason why it might be dangerous? The 1/2 gallon tanks might be a good idea too, how many gallons would you guys recommend, I only said 13.5 gal because I have access to it. but I may be able to talk the airgas guy into letting me have a few old tanks that cant be used for 2K psi anymore.
I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. As long as everything is sized right and rated for the expected pressure, it should be okay.
And if you calculate the volume of the tank, there are 7.48 gallons in one cubic foot.
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 04:01 PM
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Here is a cool idea I seen at a show one time. CIC PowerBox - All the power you will ever need!


As long as you have the correct pressure regulator and blow off valve it should be safe. They make real small but powerful 12V air compressors now days.

VIAIR Corporation - 12-Volt & 24-Volt Air Compressors and Pneumatic Systems
 
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Old 10-02-2016, 06:37 PM
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Most things you would use air for (eg. impact wrench) need around 90 or 100 psi. Single stage compressors are reasonably efficient up to around 125 or 135 psi. I'm pretty sure a system operating pressure at max 200 psi would be plenty. You just need to plan storage volume based on what you will use the air for.
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 02:24 PM
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tires, impact wrench, airbag jack, air mattress, etc. I'm not an off roader, so I don't need to seat beads on a rim or anything. just wanted a good system setup. Oh, and eventually, some wicked pvc fog ship horns. lol
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 02:28 PM
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I got bored today in my delirium of being up since 6am yesterday morning. so I drew this plan up. I'm a long way off from being able to do anything with it, bills come first, but here are my thoughts. and I know, its not to scale lol. anyone see any flaws in this set up?


 
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Old 10-03-2016, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by shameless
anyone see any flaws in this set up?
Not really a flaw but I would route things a little different.
I would go compressor to check valve to pressure relief to receiver tank w/ pressure switch to manual shutoff valve to manual pressure relief to drier to regulator.
Something else you need to consider, a way to drain the condensation out of the receiver. An out of spec oxygen tank won't have any provisions for a drain
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:25 PM
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I wonder if there would be a way to drill a hole in the tank, since its thick walled, and get it tapped out. the (soft) brass fittings aren't very thick walled. If I could do that, i could use the tank I already have, and make it work with an adapter plug. say, 3/4" tapped, and use a 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID or something. any thoughts? I'm just tying to keep this project under a little bit of a budget, and that would save me $50 by doing so, if its possible.
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:54 PM
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I would be asking a shop that deals in this sort of thing first
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by shameless
I wonder if there would be a way to drill a hole in the tank, since its thick walled, and get it tapped out. the (soft) brass fittings aren't very thick walled. If I could do that, i could use the tank I already have, and make it work with an adapter plug. say, 3/4" tapped, and use a 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID or something. any thoughts? I'm just tying to keep this project under a little bit of a budget, and that would save me $50 by doing so, if its possible.
In general, any machining or welding on pressure vessels is tightly controlled and limited so they do not go boom. I think you would be much better off adapting an already existing opening to pipe thread. 1/4" NPT would be plenty to run an impact or anything else you may want to do with the air.
 
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:10 PM
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so are you saying, no tank, just compressor?
 
  #26  
Old 10-03-2016, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by shameless
I wonder if there would be a way to drill a hole in the tank, since its thick walled, and get it tapped out. the (soft) brass fittings aren't very thick walled. If I could do that, i could use the tank I already have, and make it work with an adapter plug. say, 3/4" tapped, and use a 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID or something. any thoughts? I'm just tying to keep this project under a little bit of a budget, and that would save me $50 by doing so, if its possible.

That just doesn't seem like a good idea. Maybe have a tank drilled, and have a bung welded in would be better.
 
  #27  
Old 10-03-2016, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by shameless
I wonder if there would be a way to drill a hole in the tank, since its thick walled, and get it tapped out.
That thought crossed my mind but I hesitate to suggest that someone else do it.
Most tanks are tapped for either 1/8 or 1/4 NPT pipe thread. That's more than enough for a drain, a 3/4 pipe is waaay big for a drain.
 
  #28  
Old 10-03-2016, 06:21 PM
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unfortunately, I am not using a traditional tank, what I was wanting to use is an old industrial sized helium tank. I'm quickly realizing maybe this is an exaggeration of overkill. lol but it'd be more than enough volume to keep me going.


 
  #29  
Old 10-04-2016, 09:40 AM
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you know, for what you are planning on using the air for, you do not need that much capacity - if you look on ebay a brand new 20 gallon tank with drain already in it is like $30. Two of them would easier to mount, give you 40 gallon capacity, and probably not cost any more than modifying the big awkward tanks you have. Just a suggestion.
 
  #30  
Old 10-04-2016, 10:20 AM
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well, if I do have to buy a tank, I'm really curious how small of a tank I could get away with.
 


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