built in air compressor???
#16
so, with 300 psi rated parts, you don't see any reason why this might not work, or any reason why it might be dangerous? The 1/2 gallon tanks might be a good idea too, how many gallons would you guys recommend, I only said 13.5 gal because I have access to it. but I may be able to talk the airgas guy into letting me have a few old tanks that cant be used for 2K psi anymore.
And if you calculate the volume of the tank, there are 7.48 gallons in one cubic foot.
#17
Here is a cool idea I seen at a show one time. CIC PowerBox - All the power you will ever need!
As long as you have the correct pressure regulator and blow off valve it should be safe. They make real small but powerful 12V air compressors now days.
VIAIR Corporation - 12-Volt & 24-Volt Air Compressors and Pneumatic Systems
As long as you have the correct pressure regulator and blow off valve it should be safe. They make real small but powerful 12V air compressors now days.
VIAIR Corporation - 12-Volt & 24-Volt Air Compressors and Pneumatic Systems
#18
Most things you would use air for (eg. impact wrench) need around 90 or 100 psi. Single stage compressors are reasonably efficient up to around 125 or 135 psi. I'm pretty sure a system operating pressure at max 200 psi would be plenty. You just need to plan storage volume based on what you will use the air for.
#19
#20
#21
Not really a flaw but I would route things a little different.
I would go compressor to check valve to pressure relief to receiver tank w/ pressure switch to manual shutoff valve to manual pressure relief to drier to regulator.
Something else you need to consider, a way to drain the condensation out of the receiver. An out of spec oxygen tank won't have any provisions for a drain
I would go compressor to check valve to pressure relief to receiver tank w/ pressure switch to manual shutoff valve to manual pressure relief to drier to regulator.
Something else you need to consider, a way to drain the condensation out of the receiver. An out of spec oxygen tank won't have any provisions for a drain
#22
I wonder if there would be a way to drill a hole in the tank, since its thick walled, and get it tapped out. the (soft) brass fittings aren't very thick walled. If I could do that, i could use the tank I already have, and make it work with an adapter plug. say, 3/4" tapped, and use a 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID or something. any thoughts? I'm just tying to keep this project under a little bit of a budget, and that would save me $50 by doing so, if its possible.
#24
I wonder if there would be a way to drill a hole in the tank, since its thick walled, and get it tapped out. the (soft) brass fittings aren't very thick walled. If I could do that, i could use the tank I already have, and make it work with an adapter plug. say, 3/4" tapped, and use a 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID or something. any thoughts? I'm just tying to keep this project under a little bit of a budget, and that would save me $50 by doing so, if its possible.
#26
I wonder if there would be a way to drill a hole in the tank, since its thick walled, and get it tapped out. the (soft) brass fittings aren't very thick walled. If I could do that, i could use the tank I already have, and make it work with an adapter plug. say, 3/4" tapped, and use a 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID or something. any thoughts? I'm just tying to keep this project under a little bit of a budget, and that would save me $50 by doing so, if its possible.
That just doesn't seem like a good idea. Maybe have a tank drilled, and have a bung welded in would be better.
#27
Most tanks are tapped for either 1/8 or 1/4 NPT pipe thread. That's more than enough for a drain, a 3/4 pipe is waaay big for a drain.
#28
#29
you know, for what you are planning on using the air for, you do not need that much capacity - if you look on ebay a brand new 20 gallon tank with drain already in it is like $30. Two of them would easier to mount, give you 40 gallon capacity, and probably not cost any more than modifying the big awkward tanks you have. Just a suggestion.