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no spark... anywhere

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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 05:20 PM
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Angry no spark... anywhere

I'm hoping someone can help me. I have a 77 ford f-250 with the 400 in it. I have replaced the solenoid, coil, ignition control module, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and distributor. I still have no spark, the ignition switch is new and installed correctly. I have spent the last few hours chasing wires and they all go where they should with no shorts or loose connections. If anyone has any ideas as to what to check next i would be very appreciative.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 05:38 PM
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red wire on the duraspark box should have 12v key on. white is 12v when cranking. look at the connectors. i had a bad one on my 01 mustang dura spark box and it pissed in my pepsi for a couple hours, looked fine but i had zero fire till i built a new harness from the dizzy to the box and junked the early 80 wiring.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 06:33 PM
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Where is the duraspark box located, to be honest i didn't think they had one in the late 70s pick ups.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 06:38 PM
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It's located on the drivers side fender. Aluminum box 5 x 5 and 2inches thick.

You should have power at the coil with the key on. No power no spark.

.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 06:00 AM
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Make sure the ground at the back of the block is still secure. Looks like a woven steel braided wire from the block to the firewall!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 06:36 AM
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There are some fuse links by the solenoid, check there.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2011 | 08:22 AM
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Two questions:

(1) How are you checking for spark?

(2) If you crank the engine over with the distributor cap removed, does the rotor actually turn?

Also:

Originally Posted by stuck in the 70s
it pissed in my pepsi for a couple hours
That's hilarious, gonna have to rememeber that one
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:28 AM
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im checing spark by pullin the coil wire off the distributer and inserting a screw driver and cranking the motor. And yes the rotor is moving. I have power to the coil but nothing coming out. the coil is brand new but i was wondering if i should go have it tested cause that seems to be where my power is getting interupted.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 09:51 AM
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There is a ground wire at the back. It hooks from the firewall to the intake manifold. Unbolt it from the mainfold and rub sandpaper over the end of the wire and the manifold. See if that fixes your problem.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 08:35 PM
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Next test: keep the coil connected, and connect a test light from the negative (TACH TEST) terminal of the coil to clean, unpainted metal on the engine (ground). Crank the engine over with the key, and the light should BLINK. Report your results.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 04:13 PM
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I hooked my test light to the negative coil lead and grounded it on the block. While cranking the test light just stays on it doesn't flash does this mean i am getting no signal from the distributor?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2011 | 08:35 PM
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That's one possible explanation. If the light stays ON and does not BLINK, then the ignition module is not switching the coil. Possible explanations:

1) Faulty ignition module
2) No power to ignition module
3) Pickup inside distributor not sending trigger signal to module
4) Wiring bad in between.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2011 | 10:01 AM
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Thank you for all your help. I will check those things again and report back.
 
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