I did a search and came up with a few threads but none that really answered my question, most were concerned with leaking at the pitman arm.

While I was under the truck working with the transmission I noticed my steering gear is leaking out the input right by the rag joint. I see Autozone has a kit for $12. Has anyone used this kit with success. It says in the description it comes with detailed instructions and an exploded view. How hard is it replace the input seal? I don't want to take the box apart and rebuild it or anything I just want to replace the seal to try to get it to stop leaking all over everything.

Thanks

As much as I'd like to just take it off and send it to redhead to have them rebuild it, that's not happening due to $$$.

 

I recently replaced this upper seal on my dad's 74. I did the job by pulling the steering column out and working thru the hole in the firewall.
There are 3 pieces that should come in the kit, the outer dust cap, a snap ring, and the actual seal itself. Sometimes the outer dust cap is not included, so check around and try to find a seal kit that includes it if at all possible.

I can say this much, the easiest way to get the seal out, is by using a sharp punch to make a hole in the seal, then thread a sheet metal screw into that hole and use pliers to pop the seal out.
When putting the new seal in, wipe a little silicone sealer around the outer edge of the seal. It not only makes it a bit easier to get the seal in, but also helps seal around the edge. A large deepwell socket works pretty good for driving the seal into place.

The task is a bit easier to do with the gearbox removed from the truck, but that's a workout in itself.
I actually replaced the seal twice. I had the box out for other repairs, and replaced the seal while it was out, but I managed to muck it up requiring doing it again after the box was reinstalled.....


Forgot to add, wipe a little oil or light grease on the inner lip of the seal before installing. Also, a little electrical tape wrapped around the splines where the rag joint goes can help prevent damaging the lip of the seal as you are putting it into place.

 

X2 on Rouge_Wulff's instructions. That is the easiest way to replace the shaft seal. You definitely DO NOT want to disassemble the box.

 

Ok thanks guys.

I know I don't want to take the box apart. In my searching I read horror stories of people opening them and ball bearings running out every where. Also that if you don't get them back in there just right then the steering can lock up. FORGET THAT!!.

 

D7AZ-3E501-B (replaced D3AZ-3E501-A & C5AZ-3C538-A) .. Input Shaft Seal Kit / Available from Ford

MSRP: $24.18 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $17.41.

F3AZ-3E502A (replaced D7AZ-3E501-A, D3AZ-3E501-A & C5AZ-3C538-A) .. Sector Shaft Seal Kit / Available from Ford

MSRP: $24.02 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $17.29.

Applications: All 1965/2002 FoMoCo vehicles with Ford integral P/S.

 

Yeah, this part is quite simple. Getting the steering column out and back in will take far longer than the seal replacement itself does.
Really, the only way to "muck it up" is either damaging the seal while installing it, or simply installing the seal backwards.
There shouldn't be any loose pieces that can become dislodged during the seal replacement. If there is, you have other issues inside the box.....

The seal doesn't fit real tight in the housing, hence the snapring to hold it in.
When I did this one, the old snap ring had holes big enough to fit my needlenose pliers, the new ones didn't. I reused the old ring, as I didn't have my snap ring pliers handy at the time......

Oh, the "detailed instructions" rarely are detailed much, if at all...... If you have any questions during the job, there's plenty of fine folks here that can answer them.

 

As I posted in the "What have you done to your truck today" thread, I finally got around to doing this Saturday and thanks to your instructions it wasn't too bad. That snap ring did not want to come out for anything though! But I got it all back together and it seems to be sealed up fine. I just wanted to say thanks in this thread in case you didn't see it in the other one, and to finalize this thread if anyone else does this procedure and needs instruction.

Hopefully the fluid doesn't find a weak spot in the pitman arm shaft seal now and start leaking there. But with my luck it will!