Aggrevating battery light!!!
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 211
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From: eastern ky
Aggrevating battery light!!!
First off my excursion sat for 4 days went to start ran fine for 10 min then volts dropped to 7. Drained batteries and alt was bad. So I go to ford and get one installed and charged batteries (after they load tested good) got it running ran fine for a few then bam did it again. So I take all loose clean charge batteries all night reinstalled next morning. Ran great for about 30 miles then the darn batt light comes on but volts never droops below 13.5 and goes up to 14.- I took a pick of scangauge with all ficm readings and volt readings
These were KOER So I traced wires pigtails found nothing out of ordinary
YET LIGHT IS STILL ON PLEASE HELP
These were KOER So I traced wires pigtails found nothing out of ordinary
YET LIGHT IS STILL ON PLEASE HELP
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Search doesn't work well on my phone or I would look it up for ya bt there was an interesting thread a few weeks ago about AC voltage in the charging circuit. It wouldn't be un heard of for a new alternator to have a bad diode or two.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
If I remember correctly and my memory sucks, you put a digital voltmeter on the alternator output on the ac scale and if you read any voltage then there is a bad diode.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 211
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From: eastern ky
Ok thanks I'll try that. And try to search for that post you speak of rusty
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,071
Likes: 241
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
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</TD><TD height=75 vAlign=middle width="50%">
Fig 4 - Checking Ripple Voltage
Ripple voltage or (AC voltage) can be measured by switching your DMM to AC and connecting the black lead to a good ground and the red lead to the "BAT" terminal on the back of the alternator, (not at the battery). A good alternator should measure less than .5 VAC with the engine running. A higher reading indicates damaged alternator diodes.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE dir=ltr border=1 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=7 width=572><TBODY><TR><TD height=75 vAlign=middle>
Fig 5 - Alternator Leakage Current
To check alternator diode leakage, connect the multimeter in series with the alternator output terminal when the car is not running. Leakage current should be a couple of milliamps at most; more often, it will be on the order of 0.5 milliamps. Use care when disconnecting the alternator output wire; make sure the battery is disconnected first.
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>Iv got a bunch of tests that I saved in pdf format so I cant post them on here
Your first mistake was getting an OEM Alternator the last OEM alt I had in my truck went 5000 miles I didnt drive it much so warrenty was up by time so Its safe to say I was not impressed with a rebuilt OEM unit
I Reasearched it out on FTE and there wwas a few Folks running DC Power and had Good Luck with them So thats what I went with they are a little Pricey But a Solid Unit
https://www.dcpowerinc.com/vaf/produ...70&engine=1015
Check them out ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: eastern ky
Wow blade35. I appreciate the tips I will check those in the morning. Problem I have is convincing my wife that the money I just spent at dealer wasn't enough and I need more for that dc power one
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< Samantha...my Co-Pilot
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 768
Likes: 11
From: Fallon, Nevada
Find a good automotive electrical repair shop (specializing in starter motors, alternators, etc.) and have them go through and rebuild you stock alternator...they can tell you what is wrong and make the repair in short order if they are not busy. Generally the problem is the slip rings, regulator, or rectifier plate. I had mine gone through a few years ago and it was a little over $60. I also bought a "new" alternator from Autozone (Autolite) ...or might have been Kragens... and now have a spare in case one of them goes south. Stock alternator can keep up with the electrical load as long as you don't have a huge aftermarket stereo or some other huge electric load.
There is a possibility that you have a problem somewhere else...loose or bad ground, bad or corroded battery cables, or a bad pigtail on the alternator to name a few. Good luck and check back and let us know what you find.
There is a possibility that you have a problem somewhere else...loose or bad ground, bad or corroded battery cables, or a bad pigtail on the alternator to name a few. Good luck and check back and let us know what you find.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,071
Likes: 241
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
when mine went I had an AM warrenty and thought just take to Ford I called the warrenty copany and they went out of Bissness it was already at ford so I said to heck with it Let the dealer change it 500.00 later and they put that OEM rebuilt one on it died in 5000miles. wish I would have known about DC Power at the time but didnt. So for the money I spent in the last 1.5 years I could have had the best one DC Power makes oh well live and learn
How old is this alternator??
If its pumping out 14.0 volts thats about the best you could ask for
When you took the picture of the SG you posted was the battery light on at that time?????
Im wondering about the batterys IIRC they can load test fine but still have a weak cell in it
You may want to Hydro test each Battery cell and clean both main grounds off the batterys
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 211
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From: eastern ky
The alternator is only 2days old never had any trouble or signs of trouble til alt pooped out.
Yes the batt light was on when I took picture. But the light comes and goes.
Can I find a hydro test at autozone?
Yes the batt light was on when I took picture. But the light comes and goes.
Can I find a hydro test at autozone?
< Samantha...my Co-Pilot
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 768
Likes: 11
From: Fallon, Nevada
Battery hydrometer...yes you can buy one at just about any auto parts store...even WalMart has them...only a couple of bucks. Fully charge the batteries and then check each cell...they should be very close...you are checking specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell...there is an adjustment for temperature also. Read the instructions carefully...if done properly it will tell you of a bad cell or cells due to weak electrolyte, sulfation, etc. Good luck!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 211
Likes: 0
From: eastern ky
Battery hydrometer...yes you can buy one at just about any auto parts store...even WalMart has them...only a couple of bucks. Fully charge the batteries and then check each cell...they should be very close...you are checking specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell...there is an adjustment for temperature also. Read the instructions carefully...if done properly it will tell you of a bad cell or cells due to weak electrolyte, sulfation, etc. Good luck!
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 874
Likes: 4
From: mckenna wa
I bought a oem rebuilt alt once and put it on my truck got about 30 miles from home 9:00 at night in the winter pouring rain towing a 10k tractor behind me and had to get towed home for a nice $360 that great