Thanks guys. I'm trying to retro fit my non-LSD, non-locking rear end with some kind of traction device. Either I can buy a complete locking axle from a junkyard (unfortunately without limited slip) and swap in...or I invest in an LSD/auto locker/air locker and hope for a good installer.

 

Jet, just out of curiosity, do you feel you really need it? 4x4 is almost always enough for me, and without weight in the bed, locking the rear end can be an exercise in futility.

Be careful with swapping in a factory unit - there is probably more to it "electrically" than meets the eye. For example, beyond the switch, the cluster has a warning lamp in the LCD screen or in the dash, depending on which message center you have. There is also programming which won't let you engage the locker at more than 20mph and automatically kicks it out at 27mph. Then there is the override that allows the locker to stay engaged at any speed in low range.

 

Well the idea is to not have to use the 4wd for me. The truck is a basic XLT that has the manual t-case and coincidentally the manual locking hubs. Where I would use the e-locker is the times that I don't need all 4 wheels turning but just two (rather than only one that does now). And it's just a pain to jump out and lock the hubs...

Also, besides being the go-between before 4x4, I could also use it in 4x4 like you mention because at the moment all that gets me is a guaranteed 2 drive wheels (open front and rear). Does that make sense, kinda hard to explain without actually showing you in the mud/snow.

As for the elctrics of a OEM axle/locker, that is my only concern with putting it in. Questions that I need answers to are things like: Is there a control module for the locker? Is that module already on the truck? Can I just buy the OEM locker switch and plug-and-play? If this all isn't true, then can I just run 12v to the pumpkin and switch it on and off via upfitter switch in the cab? Believe me, I've been thru these scenarios in my head trying to decide what option will be cheaper/easier...

 

My current truck is a higher-spec XLT but still did not order the $185 "electronic 4x4 shift." I've had it both ways, and so long as the electronic is working, it is much nicer. Basically, I leave my hubs locked in all winter long so I can quickly shift into and out of 4x4. Additionally, if I know I will be driving off road, I'll lock the hubs in prior to hitting the trail or class VI road. Still can be a pain, I know. The one thing I do like better is that you can actually shift into or out of 4x4 quicker manually than the electric does, and you never get the "please drive forward" message. I also like the mechanical feel.

That being said, I was recently towing an empty, but still 3,200 lb trailer in 2WD down a dirt road last week. The road turned to deep mud because of spring runoff and "mud season" as we call it here in New England, and I engaged my locker. End result was that it was not enough. I got stuck in the middle of the road (probably because of the trailer deadweight) and had to get out and manually lock the hubs (unfortunately I did not have them already locked in) in the deep mud. Once in 4x4, I switched off the rear locker to aid turning, and 4x4 was fine. (Of course, then I loaded the trailer with another 5k lbs and had to return through the mud - I locked in the rear locker to ensure not getting stuck).

As for retrofitting the factory locker, I believe the easiest approach would be to simply wire a switch directly to the dash. On mine, the green electrical plug which enters the rear differential appears to be only two pin, so you could probably wire it easily enough. You could probably even use a factory switch, but you would not have a dash notification or the auto lock / unlock at certain speeds.

Maybe the factory wiring is already somewhat in place, but it would probably need to be programmed by the dealer and I think the plug to the rear diff is missing.

 

My thoughts exactly on the switch. I'm ok without a dash light as I'll use a lighted switch as a visual that it's locked. I am also ok without the auto unlock above 25mph (or whatever it is), I can regulate myself on that.

As for the green plug, I would be forever grateful to you if you wanted to use a multimeter and test the voltage in your plug when you switch on

 

I am making a note on my calendar to do this on Saturday, the first day it's not supposed to rain (my truck will not fit my garage). I might not post until next Monday, however.

 

You've got reps waiting for you then! Thanks again for the help

 

Been down this roda for too many axles and too many year. Pick the locker you want, I ran ARB's in Ford truck (F/R) and NEVER had an issue with the air lines that other say they have had. ARB is just flat one of the best, but so is the Detroit when you get to the BIG Ford axle level.

The ARB comes complete and all you need to do is to wire in the switch and the air compressor. TIP!!!!!! Learn how I got smart, by doing DUMB things and doing it over when it failed. I put my locker on/off switches low on the dash, very low...yea think I would have known better as many times as I have been coffee cup float in the cab deep in water. Finally after 5 years or so one of my 2 switches failed due internal corrosion (rust).

Dynatrac [ http://www.dynatrac.com] KNOWS Ford axle sets and there are few folks in the US that are as they are when it comes to building axles that handle extremes of torque and HP like no else. Unless they have added a locker the only ones they install are ARB and Detroit. If you have any questions on your application give them a call. Jim the owner who I know well no longer answers the phone, they are producing over 3000+++ HD axles a year. Good folk out there and KNOW what they are talking about.

Been my exp that any setup you buy will come or has the option to come complete and ready to install. YOU might have to run some juice back there if you go electric, but that is easy. Unless you truck is different there is a 7 pin setup on the wiring harness on the left side of the bed in front or just to the rear of you drivers side fender. This is in addition to the one at the rear.

Lockers are a sure ticket to getting 'worse stuck' because they will let you go further before they begin to lose against mama nature. So CHOSE WISELY!

 

Never hurts to have lockers, front and rear. But just RWD with a locker will basically never match open diff 4WD.

 

Jet, I did set a reminder and it did not go off for some reason - I'm sorry. I'm at work now and its raining again. I'm setting a new reminder to do it tomorrow; should be nice.

 

Ok- so I did get under my truck tonight. With the truck running and the plug disconnected, I had an assistant switch on the locker. I got no voltage at the pins (there are only two in the plug). Instead, the message center put up the amber warning message "check locking differential". I tried a couple of times, but that warning came up and I could not get a voltage reading. Perhaps once the system detects an open circuit the voltage is cut off. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.

 

Dang...that's disappointing. Oh well, I'll do some more research to see if I can find a Ford tech manual that has the info. I appreciate the help though!

 

Well, it is an electric locking differential. There are only two wires entering the differential. It must be a case of 12v being applied, I mean, there is no other way.

If I have time this weekend, I may try to back-probe the connector intact and try again. I'd be willing to be it is +12v and ground.

 

Sure there is. Could be any other voltage between 0 and 12 that they designed the locker to work with. The fact that it sensed a disconnect and didn't apply voltage to the harness suggests that it's controlled by a module somewhere. Who's to say they didn't design the coil for 6v?

 

In all my experience working on vehicles, modules operate at lower voltages but all the actuators, motors, servos, etc all operate at the 12V automotive standard. I know for certainty this diff lock is operated by a module; certain parameters must be met for it to engage (speed) and there is feedback to the IP. Nevertheless, its possible you are correct, I'm hoping to try a back probe operate so it will be fooled into thinking it is operation and I can get a voltage. Will post then.