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Not to hijack, but I'm alive and well! Settle on the new house in a few weeks and putting the last 24 years of my life behind me. I'll be around more once I get settled in!
Not to hijack, but I'm alive and well! Settle on the new house in a few weeks and putting the last 24 years of my life behind me. I'll be around more once I get settled in!
I purchased a 2014 F250 with the 3.31 open diff and am hoping that I can drop in a elec locking diff relatively easily. Is this possible? Does someone know of the OEM part number for the ELD option?
Try searching Tousley Ford or other such places. I don't know what all is involved, but if you don't need it to go through the factory switch, it shouldn't be difficult. Aftermarket (e.g. Eaton) electronic lockers simply need you to put a switch on it. Current flows, it locks. Break the circuit, it unlocks. Easy enough. I doubt the Ford system is more complex in the actual components at the diff, though the nanny system will unlock it for you based on other inputs like speed even if you have the selector switch pulled out to engage.
Originally Posted by 17 Oaks
I ran ARB ELD's in my Dana 60's.
The TJ/LJ Rubicons are not Electronic Locking Differentials. As far as I know ARB has never made an ELD, either. Instead, those selectable lockers are powered by air pressure (pneumatic).
Try searching Tousley Ford or other such places. I don't know what all is involved, but if you don't need it to go through the factory switch, it shouldn't be difficult. Aftermarket (e.g. Eaton) electronic lockers simply need you to put a switch on it. Current flows, it locks. Break the circuit, it unlocks. Easy enough. I doubt the Ford system is more complex in the actual components at the diff, though the nanny system will unlock it for you based on other inputs like speed even if you have the selector switch pulled out to engage.
I'm not sure an ELD is even made for this axle...I can't even find an aftermarket one, hence my search for the OEM parts.
Just tried Tousley cause I hadn't tried there yet. I found parts called differential assembly with variants including "w/ limited slip" and "w/o limited slip" but that's the only designation, no "elec locking".
Try searching Tousley Ford or other such places. I don't know what all is involved, but if you don't need it to go through the factory switch, it shouldn't be difficult. Aftermarket (e.g. Eaton) electronic lockers simply need you to put a switch on it. Current flows, it locks. Break the circuit, it unlocks. Easy enough. I doubt the Ford system is more complex in the actual components at the diff, though the nanny system will unlock it for you based on other inputs like speed even if you have the selector switch pulled out to engage.
The TJ/LJ Rubicons are not Electronic Locking Differentials. As far as I know ARB has never made an ELD, either. Instead, those selectable lockers are powered by air pressure (pneumatic).
Its the switch which powers the air compressor that is all, it just means you have a switch to turn it on and off at the dash rather than it operating on its own w/out user input.
I have installed the ARB products, not all that difficult, in all likelihood you will need to be able to set up a R&P or you can install it and just have some guy come by and set up the R&P for you.
ARB makes the for Ford Dana 60's and the Sterling: Vehicle Page
An "Electronic Locking Differential" is a specific thing, where electric current activated an electromagnet to lock he axles. Other methods of activating locker mechanisms include pneumatic (air powered like ARB) and cable driven (OX). Using "ELD" as a generic way to reference a selectable locker is neither accurate nor advised. It only creates confusion, especially since ELD is exclusively used within the modern Super Duty crowd.
OP, the easiest option for you is to pull a rear axle with the right gear ratio and e-locker from a wrecked truck where the rear axle isn't damaged. Swap it and done. Otherwise you can throw an auto-locker in it, such as a Detroit or Yukon Grizzly. Any such option is a major and expensive undertaking. You'll need an axle master overhaul kit, new gears, someone to set those gears up for you, and air pumps if it's an ARB.
OP, the easiest option for you is to pull a rear axle with the right gear ratio and e-locker from a wrecked truck where the rear axle isn't damaged. Swap it and done.
That was my next thought...probably would be the easiest, and I can get some F350 blocks and springs then as well!! It's a win-win.
My .02 worth. I have an 11 with ELD and I plow with it and I used the ELD all the time versus 4WD. Much easier on the drive train while turning. I also have a 12 that doesn't have a ELD option and I recently got it stuck in some show while in 4WD. While in 4WD, if 1 tire grabs, the other side just spins. This on front and rear! I'm definitely a big fan of ELD.
I find ELD useful on steep, rocky forest road climbs. When your wheels bounce on rocks under power, there are breaks in traction when one wheel comes up, spins, gets all the power, accelerates and slams back down. Engaging ELD will smooth out power delivery because both turn at the same rate and the wheel on the ground will keep pushing you while the other bounces up. Truck feels a lot more surefooted.
Using 4WD in this situation is not good because of locked up nature of the transfer case. You'd have to go slow and hope nothing breaks. It's times like these that fulltime 4WD is useful. But, in many cases, ELD does the trick in 2WD.
Are you suggesting it's not good to be locked while in 4HI or 4LO? That's...not true. Decades of dedicated off-roaders and rock crawlers would disagree.
Are you suggesting it's not good to be locked while in 4HI or 4LO? That's...not true. Decades of dedicated off-roaders and rock crawlers would disagree.
Agree!! I use 4x4H or 4x4L with and without the ELD (whatever combination works best in the situation) on steep wash boarded grades to reduce the effects of the wash boards on the truck.
Question without starting a new thread...eeveryone keeps saying that the front axle is not locking or whatever, that one wheel will spin while the other one sits there when in 4wd. I've had to use 4wd several times over the last few weeks because of the snow we've been getting around here. When I turn while in 4wd, I get the binding bump feeling'noise from the front end that I know is both wheels trying to turn the same amout. If my front end isn't locking, why does it do that?
Question without starting a new thread...eeveryone keeps saying that the front axle is not locking or whatever, that one wheel will spin while the other one sits there when in 4wd. I've had to use 4wd several times over the last few weeks because of the snow we've been getting around here. When I turn while in 4wd, I get the binding bump feeling'noise from the front end that I know is both wheels trying to turn the same amout. If my front end isn't locking, why does it do that? Thanks Ken
Because the wheels spin at different speeds causing the binding in the differential which is what you're feeling.
Because the wheels spin at different speeds causing the binding in the differential which is what you're feeling.
I know they are "trying" to spin at different speeds. The rear axle is limited slip and when I turn the rear end doesn't do it, if I don't have the ELD on.
If the front axle is limited slip too, then why does it bind? That is my question.
I know they are "trying" to spin at different speeds. The rear axle is limited slip and when I turn the rear end doesn't do it, if I don't have the ELD on. If the front axle is limited slip too, then why does it bind? That is my question.
Because both the front and rear drivelines are locked together in 4wd (50/50) and output front and rear is equal. If the wheels are spinning at different speeds (Left/Right Front/Rear) while the driveline is locked (4wd) on hard surfaces you're gonna get binding when turning.
Edit: in short the front axle travels farther than the rear while in 4wd.
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