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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 03:35 PM
  #16  
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More progress....


Tilt front clip and radiator support

Do this first





The radiator support is built with 1x1 11ga (roughly 1/8") square tube. The all trread is just there to help me hold things and get it square since I work by myself.





Weld up some little tabs to either side of the frame to hinge off of. I drilled the holes out to 5/8" and am using 5/8" clevis pins.





Doghouse gutted



Frame for hinge







Some chains to limit it to a little more than verticle. Lets call it 100*





All done








Ive got some Dzus 1/4 turn fasteners to attatch the fenders back to the portion that stays with the cab and will also use them on the hood so that its all easily removable, yet strong. I definitely did not want to use jeep hood style latches as Ive seen people use before.


Karl,
I like this pic better
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 04:11 PM
  #17  
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i fixed your oopsie in the other thread Kris
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #18  
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Thanks Tom.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:26 PM
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I like the after pic as well....

 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:38 PM
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too bad the monsoon washed off a good portion of the mud.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:40 PM
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I still have that sand under the f150!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 05:56 PM
  #22  
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The boxed portion of the frame was caked solid with that red peanut butter goop you call mud. Its best to break our mud off with your hand. It doesnt do much good to pressure wash it.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 06:01 PM
  #23  
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Funny, Critter said the same about the VA vs NC mud
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 06:16 PM
  #24  
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Are you still using the stock trans and t-case mounts?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 06:23 PM
  #25  
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Stock 205 side mount with the rubber bushing. The trans mount is now changed out for a tubular deal that makes it much easier to wash out. The original would get all sorts of clogged up on the driver side!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 06:36 PM
  #26  
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Text me some pics if you can. Did you (by "you" I mean Nick :flip: ) make it or did you buy it from somewhere? I thought about making a new crossmember myself.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 06:58 PM
  #27  
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The truck isn't at the house at the moment, so it'll be a bit for pics. We, as in both of us (flip), took some extra roll cage tubing to make the cross brace. It's a piece of bent door bar so it dips down under the drive shaft
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 07:04 PM
  #28  
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Aiiiiight. I doubt Ill get to work on the truck any more this week anyway so its no big rush.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 08:12 PM
  #29  
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i feel like talking sheot :flipoff2:

i would have drilled holes and either bolted or pinned the limiting chains on. welded chain looks butch and i bet those welds will fatigue over time from one too many drunken swing opens of the hood

i also prefer the look of the jeep/hummer latches v.s. the dzues fasteners, but it's not my truck.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2011 | 09:08 PM
  #30  
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Yeah x2 I might of used some chain links with the threaded part that opens connected to a angle iron tab with hole.
threaded chain connector - Google Search

You run manual brakes? Is there a reason for this?
I like the idea of the flip forward front clip. A guy around here has one on his 79. Where do you mount battery and rad? In the box I'm guessing.

That tie rod is Uber bent.... *flippoff*
guess that won't even be needed when you go high steer.

Did you reinforce frame near steering box for some reason?

The new front springs are they gas springs? What was the reason for swap? Slightly more lift and better ride?
 
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