George v4.0
#61
12-25-2011, 10:10 AM
#63
01-01-2012, 07:54 PM
Post Fiend
#64
01-01-2012, 08:16 PM
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southwest VA
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The 73-79 4wd truck trans crossmember basically sucks. Its heavy, its a pita to get in and out, it clogges up with mud very quickly and the rear trans pan bolts are somewhat tough to get to.
My remedy...
Years ago I bought something similar to this.
Jegster 40002 Jegster Ladder Bar Crossmembers
At the time it was (or possibly an option) 1.75 x .120 DOM.
After cutting to length I took a 3/4" hole saw and frenched in a piece of 3/4 x .063 tube.
Then I welded it all to 2 pieces of 2.5 x 2.5 x .25 angle 6" long with some little gussets.
Here it is all bolted up. Since I am using motor plates, the crossmember will also be soft mounted to the frame with some poly bushings that look similar to shock or sway bar bushings except with a 1/2" ID. There will be one on top and bottom of the frame so it can flex with the frame a little better. The 3/4" nuts in the pics are for spacing while I wait on the bushing to come in.
The new crossmember weighs 10lbs 4oz. The factory crossmember weighs 23lbs not including the trans mounts
I think Im going to take this bolt out and replace it with a clevis pin.
My remedy...
Years ago I bought something similar to this.
Jegster 40002 Jegster Ladder Bar Crossmembers
At the time it was (or possibly an option) 1.75 x .120 DOM.
After cutting to length I took a 3/4" hole saw and frenched in a piece of 3/4 x .063 tube.
Then I welded it all to 2 pieces of 2.5 x 2.5 x .25 angle 6" long with some little gussets.
Here it is all bolted up. Since I am using motor plates, the crossmember will also be soft mounted to the frame with some poly bushings that look similar to shock or sway bar bushings except with a 1/2" ID. There will be one on top and bottom of the frame so it can flex with the frame a little better. The 3/4" nuts in the pics are for spacing while I wait on the bushing to come in.
The new crossmember weighs 10lbs 4oz. The factory crossmember weighs 23lbs not including the trans mounts
I think Im going to take this bolt out and replace it with a clevis pin.
#65
01-01-2012, 08:27 PM
Post Fiend
#67
01-01-2012, 11:07 PM
Post Fiend
#68
01-01-2012, 11:15 PM
#69
01-02-2012, 06:20 PM
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Southwest VA
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It is very obvious the shaft is hanging..... for the last time I get that....if I imagine it attached.....yes imagine...........it still seems steep at the transfer case and it you are making the ****ing x member it would be a good time to improve it a few degrees.........but you are buying the ujoints so I don't really give a ****......beat away....I take it you are Dan there A/O ?
#70
01-02-2012, 08:07 PM
Listen...
I've dropped the engine (and as a result the tranny/t-case also) as low as I can without my headers hitting the frame. I do not have a steep front driveshaft angle as is or before but how it sits is how it will stay unless you want to have The Fab Shop make me another set of headers.
No, I am not Dan or DAN.
I've dropped the engine (and as a result the tranny/t-case also) as low as I can without my headers hitting the frame. I do not have a steep front driveshaft angle as is or before but how it sits is how it will stay unless you want to have The Fab Shop make me another set of headers.
No, I am not Dan or DAN.
#75
01-03-2012, 09:54 AM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
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