looks like the updated motorcraft part # used today for old F2TZ-9B989-C is now CX1448.
better confirm that first though. perhaps the best way is by calling a dealer.
if so:
Amazon.com: Motorcraft CX1448 Throttle Position Sensor: Automotive
(can't count on amazons built in part finder.it's most often correct,but it's wrong from time to time too.)
looks like the numbers cross reference everywhere,but part finder engines doesn't seem to know they fit anything other than a few old cars lol.seems to be a tricky one.
the one i got at advance auto in a BWD box,was branded with motorcraft on the sensor.i never thought to look for a part# on it.
the part # for the BWD there is EC3097 but who knows how often this brand changes the manufacturer supplier? so no promises lol.it's warrantied for lifetime,so i guess it doesn't matter who makes it.thing is with advance auto,their computers only save your info for 2 yrs.after that,you need your receipt which turn black and unreadable! sneaky buggers.so you must scan it to your pc.

 

Does anyone have a part # or a picture of the sensor, I am certain this is my problem.
thanks RB

 

m50,if your working with the truck in your sig: 96 F-350 XLT,SRW,CC,LB,4X4,PSD,Auto.your in the wrong part of the forum.
the guys over here can help you out:
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

I need to check this out on my truck. When i get the highway my trans sometimes just how to describe it, shifts into overdrive at 2000rpm when I'm still try to get some speed. The shift just doesn't seem the way it should be. I guess i should say it kinda just dumps into it not a crisp shift. Other than not making its mind up if it wants to converter locked at 35 going up a hill lugging the engine it works great.

 

Thanks for that link!

so according to the info in that link the two big screws that are in the arc on the bracket that holds the TPS to the IP don't do the adjusting? you just use those to get close to your idle setting, then use those two tiny screws that hold the TPS to the bracket to fine tune the setting?

is that how you adjust your's F250?

 

either one do the adjustments.you must first start with the large bracket adjustment to get it close enough to find very close to both values 1.2 idle and 4+ WOT.there is a little play in the TPS mount bolt holes as well.yes i have used both.
remember for starters,to set the idle speed.unplug the cold advance solenoid,and make sure ground and main power wires are in perfect condition with no corrosion or brakes by wiggling the wires while measuring.if your wires have aged and got corroded or chafed over the years,all effort will be in vain until you replace them.

in that link above,it shows how to test a new sensor too which is handy if your having trouble.sometimes parts are just bad new in box.it happens.

 

so getting the big screws as close to specs as possible makes the trans run like JUNK for me. will playing with the little mounting screws really make a difference?

 

ok. no i have to go out and see how much the numbers change when i adjust via those small screws.

 

then something is wrong.your pcm might not be in the best of shape anymore.i dunno.if you alter it from specs (drastically) to get the trans to operate,then it's just compensating for whatever is bad,and i doubt it will ever shift,downshift,lock/unlock like it's supposed to until the real issue is corrected.or perhaps just a bad TPS.
some have got fed up due to issues like yours that they either;
swapped in the manual or went to an aftermarket stand alone controller to resolve the E40D's shifting issues.personally,i wouldn't change anything at all with the factory controller,so id probably just swap in another, should mine fail.you'd have to take the ecm to someone to have it tested properly though im sure.
sometimes you just have to know when to call it quits and have a qualified trans expert with proper diagnoses tools resolve your issues.
E40D's are just too expensive not to have running properly.a fresh rebuilt E40D can set a guy back for as much as,or more than many whole used running idi trucks today.

 

so i went out and left the big screws alone and adjusted via the small screws. right now i have it set to, idle-1.18VDC....WOT-3.89VDC.

gonna go for a test drive. be back in a few.

 

My truck 920 F 350 whl drive. when I shift into first it seems like its attached to a wall. It doesn't do anything until I step on the accelerator. I don't feel like it wants to move. Does this sound like Fipl?

Thanks
Jim

 

back from test drive.

 

that is most likely a worn out OEM torque converter Jim.
as the vanes in the converter ware over time,they bend.this alteration in the converter causes the stall speed to increase and will give you this stuck in mud/chained to a wall feeling on take off,and require lot's of extra rpms to get the truck rolling.perhaps ballooning of the converter case would cause this too.
the symptom your describing will feel worse as you load the truck up or tow (any means you add weight to the truck.)

if this matches your symptoms,you want to replace the converter (preferably,if funds allow to a double or triple lock up billet) as soon as possible,because OEM units can fail in such a way,that the parts can actually come apart and spread through the rest of the trans,destroying the whole works.then you would need a rebuilt trans along with a new converter.

im not there so i can't tell how drastic it is,but when you select D and it's VERY doggy on take off.then it could be a failed MLPS causing incorrect gear starts too.
...............
there ya go 94!
that's right in the ballpark.your trans should be shifting really nice.nice and firm,but not too late.put her right to the floor and don't let up.you should rev real high out,but it should be launching you nicely with nice boost levels too and shift on her own (pretty late,but only because your giving her all she's got) and up shift nice after playing tag with the governor.

the real treat;
get it up into OD and at around 50 mph,stomp it to the floor.watch her unlock,downshift, boost like mad,and then relock while pulling you firmly into the seat.

if you can raise both values just a bit more now,it only gets better.
then go back to driving normally,and it should act in the same basic manner,just not as late out on the shifts,nor quite as firm,and durring a downshift,the unlock to lockup state will be shorter duration than when you really matted it under heavy load.
it's my understanding the factory turbo ecm alters from the n/a one.likely i would guess,you have a longer unlock state under a downshift from OD than i do,but it's only a guess (this would make sense,because it would hold higher boost longer.)

 

Thanks this is something I know I can do, can you recommend a brand in a double or triple lockup and who would carry something like that.

Thanks!

Jim

 

yeah. it's not quite dialed in yet, but is much better now. shifts are nice and positive. they are quick under hard accel. they don't "slide" in like before. off the line throttle response seems to be crisper as well. i got on her hard a few times and it would shift at about 3200rpm. before i could easily hit 3400 rpm but i would also have to kind of let off the throttle a little to get it to shift up. now i can stay in it and it climbs right threw the gears. before i know it i am at 55mph. the lugging in OD is not as bad as before, it doesn't take WOT to get it to kick down now, just a quick little stab. i think with a little more fine tuning that will get better as well. if the shifts wanted to be a LITTLE firmer that would be cool to. truck feels stronger from right off idle all the way up to 3200 rpm.