I need some advice here.
1965 F250
The gear shift will get stuck in neutral sometimes. Clutch in clutch out it doesn't matter. I can't put the trans into any gear. It just feels like things aren't lining up. Usually I solve the problem by frantically moving the gear shift around in the H pattern 'til I get into some gear, usually reverse. Then it will shift into first or second easily.
I'm speculating that there is something worn or out of alignment causing this. It reminds me of bad bushings on a column shift. Is there something I can look at or adjust on this trans without pulling it from the truck? I don't have a safe place (level ground) at this point where I can pull the trans right now.

Hopefully some has some good news for me.
Thanks

 

Pull the shifter shaft and look for worn items. The pins wear along with the stub end that engages the pawls.

Garbz

 

OK Bump -
I need to get this taken care of. I've looked at stuff online and it seems simple enough. But I haven't been into a trans like this before. Is there a 'kit' that I could order before I get things torn apart? Any parts suppliers you guys recommend? Will the worn out stuff be obvious or will it take prior experience to know what needs to be replaced? Like most things it's a little scary the first time you know? Any encouragement or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

The pin that aligns the shifter is in the shift tower neck.
The slot in the shifter on mine was worn as well as the pin.
I welded the slot and ground/filed it back to proper size.
Transmission shifts fine now.

 

What Blackwaterforge said. Take it apart like this. Pull the shifter cover boot up out of the way. Where the shift lever goes into the tower is a kind of ball shaped retainer that the lever comes through. Push it down and twist like a taillight bulb. The cap and shift lever and spring will come out. The end of the lever should look like a ball that has been ground flat on the sides. Look in the hole the lever came out of. There are supposed to be pins at 3 and 9 oclock. If they're worn or missing that is your problem. The trick I use to replacing them is stuff a rag down the hole and put a magnet on top of the rag. Drive the pins inward with a punch or the new pins. When they drop out the magnet catches them.

 

Almost forgot, when you have the lever out look down the hole at you shift rails. You will see three rails running north south with a slot across all three. The slot the flattened ball end of the lever goes into should have crisp edges with even gaps between the rails. Using a long flat screw driver wiggle the rails side to side you shouldn't have any sideways slop.

 

You sure you have a T-18 (reverse is up-towrds the dash)? The New Process 435 4 speed was used in both 2WD & 4WD's (reverse is down, towards the seat).

T-18: The shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220) threads off/on. When the cap is removed, a roll pin is visable within the threads that retains the lever in place.

NP435: The shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained by two pins that protrude from the shift tower.

This cap must be pressed down and held down while turning it to remove it. People are unaware, use pliers to remove it which tears out the notches.

NP435: There are nylon inserts on the shift forks. Two on the 1-2 shift fork (D2TZ-7C430-A). Two on the 3-4 shift fork (C2TZ-7C430-A).

These crack apart/disintigrate, making it difficult to shift gears. Plus, the broken pieces can fall into the gears, jamming them up.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Doesn't sound too bad, just need to get in there I guess. Thanks for the specifics NumberDummy. Reverse is towards the dash so I'm sure it's a T-18.

 

This trans is pretty simple, i have one on the 'bench' (truck bed) right now, i opened her up and inspected the shifter etc. Ive noticed it is easiest to get top housing off and back on in 1st gear when the forks align. One time it was hard to put back so i rechecked, turns out one of the plastic inserts in the shifter forks popped loose.
I checked the pin in the shifter collar and found that it all comes apart easily and there is ONE pin on the driver side. i think the NP has 2. this pin is much harder that the housing seems impossible to wear it out. i cleaned, greased and reassembled.
And Yes they did make the T18 with reverse in top right, i think that is in conjunction with the t98 top end.

I took a few pics but dont seem to be able to upload them on here..gah
Anyone who has had these apart/rebuilt tell me if its bad if the reverse idler and the 1-2/reverse slider are chewed up if thats bad....my guess is engaging reverse ground a bit bit all the other gears and synchs look A1.

 

Probly already aware, there's a 6 part article on the T-18 in the FTE 'articles/spec's' forum:

Drivetrain, Transmission, & Axle .: Articles

Seem to recall T-18 topic came up not too long ago and a couple member's posted manual transmission parts resources. Suggest try an FTE search and narrow the field to the 61-66 forum.

While cleaning out my bookmarks came across a resource and have no idea how reliable or quality of their kits. Have seen T-18 rebuild kits on ebay but when it comes to selecting the right kit I would prefer to talk to knowlegable staff. Had 2-3 other sources and will post if able to locate them. Also, suggest googling and browse some of the T-18 part suppliers website to see if able to find any that look reputable? Finally, perhaps other members will chime-in and provide add sources?

Parts for the T18 & T19 Transmissions

 

Once the Warner shift lever retainer CAP (8MTH-7220) is removed, the roll pin is visable within the threads / Shift(er) collar located on steering column w/3 M/T or A/T.

New Process 435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained by two pins that protrude from the shift tower.

2) C2TZ-7C430-A .. 3-4 Shift Fork Nylon Insert-New Process 435.

2) D2TZ-7C430-A .. 1-2 Shift Fork Nylon Insert-New Process 435

 

Some of you guys are such show offs with your fancy numbers and knowlege and all.
I appreciate the help. Finally got around getting after this. Of course the 50 year old floor mat wouldn't come out in one piece. When I got the shifter out I found that the slot was pretty wallowed out and the pin was toast. I welded up the slot and reground it (ala blackwaterforge) and cut a new pin from a drill bit. The hole in the tower neck seemed a little sloppy but I left it as is. I put everything back together and it felt better until I tried to shift from first into neutral. Then things go really loose and the shifter dropped about 1/2 inch lower into the tower. So I took the top off the trans and found that the shifter fork closest to the seat had lost a set srew and fallen off the rail. I tried to fish for the set screw with a magnet but didn't have any luck. There's a bit of metal in the bottom of the trans case but not so much that I'm worried about it. If I could find another set screw I'd be tempted to just put the shift fork back on and go for it. But these set screws are different and I can't find a replacement from my normal hardware sources. Novak says they don't have any either. The truck was close to needing a new clutch (which I have on hand) anyway.
So I guess my options are:

1. Pull trans and rebuild it. The kit is $200 from Novak, that may be worth it because of the support and instructions. There's also kits for about $100 on ebay. Who knows about the quality of those?

2. Try to find a donor trans from a junk yard. I took a quick look this morning and the pickings are slim. Would cost me about $100 if I could find the right trans. This could save some time over the rebuild option if I don't end up searching for ever for a donor trans.

3. Just pull every thing out and put a C6 in there. This could be anywhere from $500 to $1000 depending on how much I'm able to do myself. I've kind of wanted an auto trans in the truck for a while. It's a city truck, not a farm truck or a work truck. It goes to Home Depot and the Dump and hauls a few motorcycles around sometimes. This option would be petty tough financially right now.

So there we are. Well there I am really. Encouragement, support, ridicule, advice and humor are all welcome and appreciated. I need to figure out what I'm going to do. I need to make a dump run soon.

 

This may be a stupid question but Do you have the right gear oil in it? wrong weight gear oil can make them impossible to shift... Mine had 90w in it and it calls for 50w.. big difference!

 

What is the number that you're referring to as a set screw?

 

Looks like 7245 to me. What would be the proper name for it?