Another dead PSD
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 175
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From: New Kensington PA
Another dead PSD
I have a 1996 F250 PSD 4X4 automatic tranny
About 2 weeks ago I got a bad batch of fuel. The truck would take about 10 minutes to start after cycling the GP a number of times. Monday of this week, I changed the fuel filter and drained the sump 2 times. I also replaced the GPR as well. The truck started without any problems. Yesterday I decided to start the truck and nothing. Last night I plugged the truck in since it was going below 30F. This morning I tried to start the truck and it would crank but not start. I checked the fuses with a continuity tester and discovered 3 that were bad. I did notice that the wait to start light did not work today. The tach does not register as well. It just stays at 0. I have a little more than 157,000 on the clock. I would appreciate some suggestions.
About 2 weeks ago I got a bad batch of fuel. The truck would take about 10 minutes to start after cycling the GP a number of times. Monday of this week, I changed the fuel filter and drained the sump 2 times. I also replaced the GPR as well. The truck started without any problems. Yesterday I decided to start the truck and nothing. Last night I plugged the truck in since it was going below 30F. This morning I tried to start the truck and it would crank but not start. I checked the fuses with a continuity tester and discovered 3 that were bad. I did notice that the wait to start light did not work today. The tach does not register as well. It just stays at 0. I have a little more than 157,000 on the clock. I would appreciate some suggestions.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
Likes: 3
From: Orrville, Ohio
Check Fuse #22 in the under hood power distribution box. I am guessing it is blown. It powers the PCM and (for whatever stupid reason) the fuel heater. I suggest unplugging the fuel heater before replacing the fuse. The fuel bowl heater is probably shot and shorting out, blowing the fuse.
Here is a picture of where the plug is.
Be sure and report back on your findings. And welcome to the site!
Here is a picture of where the plug is.
Be sure and report back on your findings. And welcome to the site!
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 476
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From: Bellingham, WA
X2^
Also after you do that if you still have no tach movement but a WTS light could be your cps (cam position sensor).. Also welcome, you'll get up and running soon by coming here, these guys are all ace's!!
Also after you do that if you still have no tach movement but a WTS light could be your cps (cam position sensor).. Also welcome, you'll get up and running soon by coming here, these guys are all ace's!!
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,014
Likes: 35
From: Semper Fi tell I die!
you think that fuel bowl heater is even necesary? i dotn have one on my idi 6.9 and it starts great but yet my ps 7.3 has one and it doesnt really start any better. what temp it kick on at? maybe i should unplug mine before it gets us stranded.
Tuned
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 368
Likes: 1
From: Berwick, PA
Alot of people on here have theres unplugged. Mine has been unplugged for about 2 or 3 years and it starts fine in cold temps. Although it gets colder in Alaska than it does here in PA lol, so it probably cant hurt leavin it plugged in. You could carry the extra fuse.
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Semper Fi tell I die!
is your cold minus -20F also? i plug it in below 10f so it souldnt really matter tho.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 175
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From: New Kensington PA
Tonight I went out to see if the new 30 amp fuse was blown. Yes it was. It was #22 for the fuel heater. I unplugged the fuel heater for now. How do you know if the CPS is bad? How is is it checked?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
And why are the guys from down South answering questions about fuel bowl heaters. What do we know about needing them?
If you've unplugged the heater and replaced the fuse, does your WTS light work now? Typically a easy way to tell if the CPS is working is if the tach bounces while cranking. If you're still having a no start and the tach is bouncing, check the oil level in the HPOP reservoir. As mentioned, it can run dry with extended cranking.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
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From: New Kensington PA
No, I did not replace the 30 Amp fuse yet. I discovered it after I read the info about the fuel bowl heater. I removed the heater to be able to disconnect the wire. I did not have any more fuses. I need to get another one in the morning. when I replace the fuse should the WTS light come back on?
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 476
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From: Bellingham, WA
leave the fuel heater unplugged when you put the new fuse in and hopefully your wts light will be back!! sounds like that's what's wrong. also make sure to take note of your tach during cranking should be registering about 200.. like stated above if tach is moving with wts light hpop level would need to be checked and if low you should add oil to 1/2 below the top.. the fill plug is top right of the hpop sorry i don't have a pick but someone might through one up! Good luck!