Another dead PSD
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: New Kensington PA
Today's work - I changed fuse
#22. It was burned out because of the fuel bowl heater probably being shorted out. Then I replaced the CPS. that was a real bear. I ended up taking off the serpentine to make work much easier. After That was done, I put everything back together. Here are the results. First the WTS light did not come on at all. The truck cranked over but did not start. I need to try again because I did watch for the tach to see if it registered. What's next?
#22. It was burned out because of the fuel bowl heater probably being shorted out. Then I replaced the CPS. that was a real bear. I ended up taking off the serpentine to make work much easier. After That was done, I put everything back together. Here are the results. First the WTS light did not come on at all. The truck cranked over but did not start. I need to try again because I did watch for the tach to see if it registered. What's next?
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Today's work - I changed fuse
#22. It was burned out because of the fuel bowl heater probably being shorted out. Then I replaced the CPS. that was a real bear. I ended up taking off the serpentine to make work much easier. After That was done, I put everything back together. Here are the results. First the WTS light did not come on at all. The truck cranked over but did not start. I need to try again because I did watch for the tach to see if it registered. What's next?
#22. It was burned out because of the fuel bowl heater probably being shorted out. Then I replaced the CPS. that was a real bear. I ended up taking off the serpentine to make work much easier. After That was done, I put everything back together. Here are the results. First the WTS light did not come on at all. The truck cranked over but did not start. I need to try again because I did watch for the tach to see if it registered. What's next?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
If the WTS light is not coming on, your PCM is not getting any voltage so don't waste the time cranking unless the bulb in the WTS is out.
So you unplugged the fuel bowl heater, replaced fuse 22, left the fuel bowl heater disconnected and you don't have a WTS light?
Edit: still slow. Jose beat me.
So you unplugged the fuel bowl heater, replaced fuse 22, left the fuel bowl heater disconnected and you don't have a WTS light?
Edit: still slow. Jose beat me.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 476
Likes: 0
From: Bellingham, WA
Does your truck have a chip in it that you know of? If it came loose it will mess with your PCM.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 175
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From: New Kensington PA
I got it going tonight. One of the neighbors came over to help me. He has worked on the PSD quite a bit. He showed me that I had not unplugged the wire to the fuel bowl heater but unplugged another wire close to it. I made a jumper and placed in slot #22 and the truck fired right up. He said that the Fram filter was a little longer than the Motorcraft and put pressure on the bottom of the filter housing which caused a problem with the bowl heater. I do not know if that is true or not but the truck is running. By the way I do not have a chip in the truck.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 175
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From: New Kensington PA
I won't be a stranger to the site. This is my first diesel truck. I have had 5 other ford trucks including another F250. All of them were gas powered. I use this truck to haul logs out of the woods at the farm. The FWD really helps going through the soft ground.
Do you know where I can get a chip that will get me better fuel economy? Is this something the average wrench turner can do? Are the chips reasonable to pay for themselves?
Do you know where I can get a chip that will get me better fuel economy? Is this something the average wrench turner can do? Are the chips reasonable to pay for themselves?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 175
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From: New Kensington PA
After I got the truck running I decided to do some more checking. I used my multimeter with the continuity tester on the engine block heater plug. It did not beep so I think that the heater is not working. Last year I taped the wires since the plug and wires were coming apart. What is the chance that the wires are bad and not the block heater? Is there a fuse to check for this, if so what is the number?
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
The block heater isn't part of the truck's electrical system, so there's no fuse. If you put the continuity tester between the hot and neutral blades on the plug, it wouldn't beep, because the heater is a big resistor. Resistance should be about 15 ohms. If it's open (infinite resistance), try removing the plug at the heater end and check the resistance right at the heater. If that's okay, it means the heater should be good, and I'd be looking for a new feed cord. They're semi-generic; you can get 'em at NAPA.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 175
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From: New Kensington PA
I want to have everything working before the really cold weather hits. Here in PA it does go well below 0. Last year we had almost a month of below freezing temps. I don't want to be working outside on a cold truck in weather like that. The winter before my truck was the only vehicle to be able to get into our road due to the snow.