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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

4180 choke

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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 10:16 AM
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4180 choke

I believe this truck originally had a line from the exhaust manifold donut connector to the choke. I developed a leak at the donut. My mechanic told me that it would be expensive to fix like original, so he welded the leak but that rendered the choke line inoperative.
One side of the choke has been plugged, but I don't know what to do with the other side (toward the front). The power is still attached.
What is the best remedy for this choke to make it work? Or should I get another type of choke?
Can someone please tell me how to post my carb picture? Tried to insert image but it asked for a url. Photo is in my pictures on my desktop.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 08gasurveyor
I believe this truck originally had a line from the exhaust manifold donut connector to the choke.
Was this a vacuum line?


I developed a leak at the donut. My mechanic told me that it would be expensive to fix like original, so he welded the leak but that rendered the choke line inoperative.
One side of the choke has been plugged, but I don't know what to do with the other side (toward the front).
Again, vacuum lines?

The power is still attached.
What is the best remedy for this choke to make it work? Or should I get another type of choke?
If it is the original 4180 by Motorcraft you may not be able to get a new choke. If you were talking about the vacuum lines, is it possible to route the vacuum lines elsewhere?

Can someone please tell me how to post my carb picture? Tried to insert image but it asked for a url. Photo is in my pictures on my desktop.
Upload your pics to photobucket. You should get a URL after uploading to copy into the message.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 12:50 PM
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Thanks for the reply lavatan.
I only remember that there was a line from to the choke. Don't know if it was vacuum or just hot air blown up from the exhaust, maybe to control the temp of the choke element? There are two tubes sticking out at the choke, one in the rear and one in front. I think the line from the exhaust went to the one in back. For some reason, I keep thinking that the front was connected to a line from the thermostat housing. I'm probably wrong. Did Ford ever use water temp to control the choke?
Trying to get a photo loaded.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 01:06 PM
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I'm attaching a picture (kind of bad) that may enable you to point out which ports you are referring to.

 
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 01:16 PM
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I have never seen a 4180 with the hot air setup hooked up. Even on the new 4160's the port is there but it isn't even drilled. There is a tube that runs out of the main body above the choke on some 4180's, this is simply a fresh air port that loops over to the place where you could hook up the hot air choke. (This port is alluminum, not gold/brass colored). Towards the front choke assembly there is a big round spot that normally has a vacuum cap on it. I think the choke pulloff piston is behind it.

Does this help you?

 
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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Sw1tchfoot, I believe the tube on the right of the choke that you have a black cap on is the "front" tube on mine. There is another tube at the rear by your pinky. It may come out of the carb and exits by the choke. That would be the "rear" tube on mine, and it is threaded. Mine is capped off.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 02:07 PM
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 02:10 PM
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Okay, finally got picture up. The threaded tube is to the left of the choke and is capped off with rubber boot. The tube on the front side is open. What are these? I assume this is an electric choke due to the elec connector.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 02:30 PM
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That's a new one on me. I haven't a clue. I'm sure someone will know what those are.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 08:29 PM
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What I would do is remove the cap from B and put it on C. Then take a piece of vacuum hose and connect A to B.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 10:55 PM
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Thanks for the info Swi1chfoot. I believe the top tube "A" hooks to a line on the air cleaner cover.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 07:43 AM
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That's what mine does as well. I'd have to look at my carb again to see if I have C. I'm sure I do and if I missed it, it would explain why my pull of isn't working properly. I have to hold the choke open when I first start the truck until the electric choke starts taking over. Otherwise the butterfly is completely closed. Maybe that isn't the solution either.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 08:09 AM
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Ok, first, I don't think that's a 4180, it looks more like a Holley replacement carb. On the front of the airhorn (where the choke blade is) should be stamped a list number it will either have an O or an R followed by a 4 or 5 digit number. If you could please get me that I can probably help you out with it as I used to own a carburetor and tune-up shop.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 04:49 PM
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85lebaront2: Been working all day today, will post the carb # tomorrow. It is a Holley made for Ford. It also is not the correct carb for this truck. Had the carb replaced a few yrs ago. My mechanic ordered the carb from several parts houses, and each time they sent a carb that did not match but was close. Finally wound up installing the wrong carb but I guess it was close enough to work. Ford probably changed carbs in the middle of a production run but was unlisted. When I brought the original in for the core exchange at Carburetor Specialists in Marietta, they told me they weren't the same. But it was already done.
The kit I bought for a 4180 had the correct parts (primary bowl gasket, primary float valve, etc). Didn't rebuild entire carb, just the primay bowl parts and accel pump, with the carb still on the engine.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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This truck sat for over a yr before I tried to revive it. I have it cranking and idling fairly well (choke and bowl adjustments). It idles high when cold; after reaching operating temp (takes a while) it idles well but has a little hitch in its giddyup. Hoping that the vacuum lines may be contributing to the slight rough idle.
One more question. When I tried to back the truck out from the garage, it would die as soon as I shifted into R. I read another thread that suggested the TC could be locked up.
Can I pull the truck with a chain for a little ways (not running, in Drive) and loosen the TC enough, or is that a stupid idea?
 
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