When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Quick suggestion, try it in D and see if it dies. The only torque converters I have seen "lock" are the ones with a lockup clutch in them. If it still dies instantly then you probably have something else wrong. If you give it some gas before you put it in gear will it stay running then?
Ford probably changed carbs in the middle of a production run but was unlisted.
The best way to go about getting a replacement for a factory carb is to go by the numbers on the small ID Tag screwed onto the things, as which carb is installed on any particular engine is directly related to the Calibration Code of the engine, of which there are hundreds 1980-89....
This truck sat for over a yr before I tried to revive it. I have it cranking and idling fairly well (choke and bowl adjustments). It idles high when cold; after reaching operating temp (takes a while) it idles well but has a little hitch in its giddyup. Hoping that the vacuum lines may be contributing to the slight rough idle.
One more question. When I tried to back the truck out from the garage, it would die as soon as I shifted into R. I read another thread that suggested the TC could be locked up.
Can I pull the truck with a chain for a little ways (not running, in Drive) and loosen the TC enough, or is that a stupid idea?
Does it die if you put it in gear just a little bit after starting it up, when the choke is still enriching the mixture?
If you pull an auto trans vehicle in nuetral with the engine not running, does the TC turn? Isn't this why the driveshaft must be dropped or the drive wheels suspended if towed?
Sorry for late post; been busy. Numbers on carb are E4TE-9510-ARA, then LIST 50174, and finally 0674. Actually, thats 0?74. Can't read that well. Had a Ford guy come over today and help adjust primay bowl level; it was a little high. I adjusted the choke myself and she cranked right up and idled well. Again stalled after shifting into R. Also, if I goosed the accel pedal, she would bog down and backfire. We sprayed carb cleaner at the baseplate while idling and the engine would run faster. Ford guy said the plate gasket was leaking, and after more adjustments to the primary float, that started leaking too. Gasket is wore out I guess with all the fooling with it. Accel pump may be leaking too. I'm beginning to understand what everyone means about working on this carb.
This truck is titled as a 1985 model. I will check the VIN to make sure, but this means I have a 1984 carb. I also looked up some photos of 4180s at GC (Guaranteed Carburetor) and noticed that the carb for the 460v8 resembles mine, at least the graduated marks on the choke and the adjusting nut and screw on the primary bowl. The 351 carb has a diaphram on the "choke pull-off". Mine has that tube which I now think may have been hooked to the smog pump? The threaded tube on mine I believe was connected to the exhaust.
Will attempt to pull carb for new base gasket, but since I have the rest of the kit I will attempt my first rebuild. Have been reading that the bodies of these sometimes warp which causes leaks at the bowls. Will watch out for that.
Wish me luck!
By the way, Lebaront2, if the carb # means 1984, could this be a reman that Holley used in place of my original 1985 carb when I ordered a replacement? Or would Ford use a 1984 carb on a 1985 truck at the assembly plant?
Ford frequently continued use of a part for more than one year. The list number is the Holley PN for that carb, the E4TE is Ford's PN, the other number should be a date code. Here are a couple of hots of mine.
Lebaron, my truck has a thin sheet metal type plate under the carb which sticks out all the way around. I notice yours doesn't. Did you remove yours, and what is it? Perhaps a heat shield?
Yours is a 351W correct? Mine is a 460 and I haven't seen any 460s with the the heat shield. It may be original or it may be like the ones I used to install in my shop, OEM for a 1970 Corvette LT1 engine (it was a real nice one).
Last edited by 85lebaront2; Dec 5, 2011 at 08:27 AM.
Reason: Typo
351W HO. I removed the carb this morning; the plate is factory. Will see if I can get a pic up later.
One of my church deacons drives his 70's L78 to Sunday service when he's not on his Harley.