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let see if i can explane my self. yes the vacum advance will change the amount of timing . what i was tring to explan is that on a ford duraspark dizzy the adjust ment that is changed with the allen screw in the nipel in the front of the can was ment to change when it starts and how fast it will advance or retard the extra timing . the only way it changes the total amount it will give is if u adjust the spring to wher it binds up then it will change the amount. if u have a junk one cut it open and see ther is a tab on the dist side that is set from factory for the total amount of timing. most of them are marked with a number on the arm with eather a 8,10,or a 12and that is half of the total amount of timing that can wil give. whin u set total timing it is a combo of inital and mac. the vacum is extra timing for whin the moter is under light load or cruzzn downthe high way. as load goes up timing goes down as with the vacum . a lean air fuel mix takes longer to light so at cruzz mix is lean hence mor timing .
That makes sense. So how much will mechanical advance change the timing. I plugged the vac advance and at like 2-3000 rpm it only changed like 4 or 5 it should be advancing more right. I tried to take the stator off to get to the mechanical advance but it was rusted on. Something must be bound up or rusted. Could i just spray some wd-40 down there and maybe that would do it.
YES MARK IT it can go o two diff ways and the vacum is ONLY for curv NOT for total but if you adjust it to far in the spring will bind and limet the amount of timing.
There are only two slots on the stator (armature) and they are indexed the same. The reason for two slots? When one wears out you turn the stator and motor on.
When doing ignition work you should always re-check the timing anyways.
That makes sense. So how much will mechanical advance change the timing. I plugged the vac advance and at like 2-3000 rpm it only changed like 4 or 5 it should be advancing more right. I tried to take the stator off to get to the mechanical advance but it was rusted on. Something must be bound up or rusted. Could i just spray some wd-40 down there and maybe that would do it.
i had to use a puller to get the armature off. mark it the grooves in it r diff one is round and one is sort of like a triangle then remove two screws that hold the magnetic pickup. then ther is a c-clip for the vacuum advanc can. under the plate is the armature it has two slots , one wil have a pin in it that limits travil ther will b a number on the slot i will b something like 13L or 10L or 18L if u double that that is what the mec advance should be. 13L is 26*deg. 10L is 20*deg. and so on . yes u can spray wd-40 in side the armatur to free it up then a couple of drops of oil on the felt . but i would get in side to see what was going on. if u want to remove the armature be carfull not to streach the springs and dont lose the little clip in the armature
There are only two slots on the stator (armature) and they are indexed the same. The reason for two slots? When one wears out you turn the stator and motor on.
When doing ignition work you should always re-check the timing anyways.
Josh
i dont think it is for one gits ***** out they dont move . i think they have two slots is to time the armature with the magnetic pickup with the rotor and the cap. the one i pulled had two slots one was a half moon and one was a triangle. and if u look REALLY close they r not in line. but u r right when u do any dizzy work check the timing.
The armeture is the stator? Where would i get a puller for it. When i turn the shaft to the point where it stops and springs back it moves up slightly. I heard this was bad and could screw with your timing and that you could get a spacer to fix it. I checked again to make sure but im getting only about six degrees advance and to get that advance i have to rev the engine to 3-4000 rpm.
the eight fingerd star thing is the armature . the magnetic pickup is also called the stator. i just used a two finger puller with a sockit to keep from hurting the shaft. wher to git one well that is up to you.ther is a lock spring (well it is a wire) in the shaft that keeps it from moving up, i have not herd of a spacer to take up slack on that part of the dist. i still think i would open up the dist to see what is going on . (or by a rebuilt one from a parts store)
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