Quick Choke Adjustment Tips, Pleez
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2005
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Quick Choke Adjustment Tips, Pleez
I just replaced my old Autolite with a rebuild from Advance. Everything seems *okay* as it's supposedly set in their facility, but I have two issues:
I converted from manual choke to an auto "stove" choke. I've made some adjustments and realize I didn't mark the original setting clearly, so I need a tip or two on how to set the choke. It's the type with the metal tube from the manifold, the round plastic cover with the three screws that allow you to twist the cover when loosened.
Also, in top gear as I press the pedal I lose power, like on hills or with a load. It also runs a little off. I can get it normal but letting off the gas, but can't accelerate.
Any ideas or help are appreciated. It's finally springtime around here!!
I converted from manual choke to an auto "stove" choke. I've made some adjustments and realize I didn't mark the original setting clearly, so I need a tip or two on how to set the choke. It's the type with the metal tube from the manifold, the round plastic cover with the three screws that allow you to twist the cover when loosened.
Also, in top gear as I press the pedal I lose power, like on hills or with a load. It also runs a little off. I can get it normal but letting off the gas, but can't accelerate.
Any ideas or help are appreciated. It's finally springtime around here!!
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
On that black cover loosen the 3 screws and rotate the cover until the choke plate is just closed then add one line space or app 3/32" more rotation. this will get you in the zone then adjust to what the motor wants after a few cold starts in the morning. Set your idle speed also, both are trial and error adjustments.
Did you hook the vacuum advance line back up, ported vacuum on the carb to the vacuum advance can on the disrtibutor? Suck on the line to make sure the diaphram isn't ruptured and you have smooth movement inside the distributor on both vacuum and mechanical advance. When was the last time the mechanical was cleaned and lubricated?
Another thing to look into is the jetting, maybe your replacement carb has smaller jets than what's required for your motor?
What's initial timing set at?
What motor in question, I assume 360?
Do you have hot air to the air filter hooked up?
On the FE's like your 360/390 they will lean stumble even up to 3/4 of their normal operating temperatue, cold blooded animals they are.
.....=o&o>.....
Did you hook the vacuum advance line back up, ported vacuum on the carb to the vacuum advance can on the disrtibutor? Suck on the line to make sure the diaphram isn't ruptured and you have smooth movement inside the distributor on both vacuum and mechanical advance. When was the last time the mechanical was cleaned and lubricated?
Another thing to look into is the jetting, maybe your replacement carb has smaller jets than what's required for your motor?
What's initial timing set at?
What motor in question, I assume 360?
Do you have hot air to the air filter hooked up?
On the FE's like your 360/390 they will lean stumble even up to 3/4 of their normal operating temperatue, cold blooded animals they are.
.....=o&o>.....
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Apr 10, 2006 at 02:16 PM.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
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Thanks for the tips. I do have a 360. I was setting the choke as you suggested so my intuition was right. I haven't touched the idle speed yet, since it was "pre-set" I've been looking elsewhere.
Vacuum lines are on and tested, but advance mechanism hasn't been closely examined other than that it does hold air and the mechanism does move freely.
I haven't checked the jet sizing. The timing was set by ear on the last carb. There are no marks on the crank pulley, but she has been running okay.
The stock intake has been replaced with an open element, so no chimney, just the crankcase vent is connected.
One thought just crossed my mind...the aluminum tube to the choke from the stove is open on the manifold side, so air gets sucked into it freely. presumably this is so the heat travels to the choke mechanism. Wouldn't this constitute a vacuum leak? Should this tube be plugged or at least pinched?
Vacuum lines are on and tested, but advance mechanism hasn't been closely examined other than that it does hold air and the mechanism does move freely.
I haven't checked the jet sizing. The timing was set by ear on the last carb. There are no marks on the crank pulley, but she has been running okay.
The stock intake has been replaced with an open element, so no chimney, just the crankcase vent is connected.
One thought just crossed my mind...the aluminum tube to the choke from the stove is open on the manifold side, so air gets sucked into it freely. presumably this is so the heat travels to the choke mechanism. Wouldn't this constitute a vacuum leak? Should this tube be plugged or at least pinched?
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
Likes: 4
From: "Islander"
No, the metered vacuum "leak" is just enough to draw hot air into the black cap for the bimetallic coil to work, no effect of carb operation. This same vacuum "leak" is used with electric heated chokes to prevent over heating the heating element. The preset or adjusted fast idle and choke adjustments are only a ball park adjustment, adjust everything to your own motors needs including F/A adjustments.
.....=o&o>.....
.....=o&o>.....
