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Looks like my alternator is going out again. Second one and this one only lasted about 30k miles. I have the 110amp single setup. Can I upgrade to the 140amp without changing wiring? Also can anyone address the "build date" differences I'm seeing at the various parts stores? What's the difference between these alternators. I'd like to have the extra power although the only real accessory I have is a transfer flow fuel tank (not sure how many amps that draws). I figure it can't be much except when the fuel pump is on.
130,000 miles and I've loved driving every single one of them.
Along these same lines, I have a Scangauge II and I am wondering if my alternator is working correctly. What voltages should I be seeing? When I first start it up and it is idling, it is around 12.5V. Once I start driving it is 13.7-14.0V. How can you tell if your alternator is dying?
Along these same lines, I have a Scangauge II and I am wondering if my alternator is working correctly. What voltages should I be seeing? When I first start it up and it is idling, it is around 12.5V. Once I start driving it is 13.7-14.0V. How can you tell if your alternator is dying?
With the PSD, the glow plugs being "on" disables the alternator
from outputting. I believe this is because the current draw of the
glow plugs exceeds the alternator so this is to save the alternator.
I wait to move my PSD until the alternator kicks in (voltage goes back to 13.6+). I also leave my auto-headlights off, and the same with my
auto-HVAC system. I wait to turn things on until the voltages rises
indicating the alternator is online.
With the PSD, the glow plugs being "on" disables the alternator
from outputting. I believe this is because the current draw of the
glow plugs exceeds the alternator so this is to save the alternator.
I wait to move my PSD until the alternator kicks in (voltage goes back to 13.6+). I also leave my auto-headlights off, and the same with my
auto-HVAC system. I wait to turn things on until the voltages rises
indicating the alternator is online.
Good point! I don't think most guys even consider the accessory load. Seat heaters are another big load if your truck has them.
Along these same lines, I have a Scangauge II and I am wondering if my alternator is working correctly. What voltages should I be seeing? When I first start it up and it is idling, it is around 12.5V. Once I start driving it is 13.7-14.0V. How can you tell if your alternator is dying?
Sounds pretty strong. I don't see a problem with those numbers.
My alternator light has been coming on and off for a while now. Nothing consistent, but at idle it drops from around 13.5 to 12.0-12.5v. My batteries definitely needed charging this past weekend. The light has come on quicker and stayed longer over the past month.
Does anyone know what's up with the different alternators? Seems to only affect rebuilds. Autozone shows some as "built to11/03/2004" and "built from 09/15/2004". I'm planning on just buying new anyways, but don't want to get the wrong thing.
Be aware, low voltage will lead to a failed FICM which is $$$$.
Bad batteries can kill the alternator, so when you buy new batteries
(always buy 2 new batteries!) only to find they won't stay charged too.
Not a place were "trying" to save $150 is worth it IMO.
When you realize a fill-up is $160 (or more), the cost of parts
doesn't look so bad.
Along these same lines, I have a Scangauge II and I am wondering if my alternator is working correctly. What voltages should I be seeing? When I first start it up and it is idling, it is around 12.5V. Once I start driving it is 13.7-14.0V. How can you tell if your alternator is dying?
One way to check the electrical output is to turn everything on and then see how many volts you are generating. Mine usually runs around 13.5v after the glowplugs turn off. A factory alternator needs to be above idle speed to test, some of the aftermarket units have a smaller pulley and can have a good output at idle.
My alternator light has been coming on and off for a while now. Nothing consistent, but at idle it drops from around 13.5 to 12.0-12.5v. My batteries definitely needed charging this past weekend. The light has come on quicker and stayed longer over the past month.
Does anyone know what's up with the different alternators? Seems to only affect rebuilds. Autozone shows some as "built to11/03/2004" and "built from 09/15/2004". I'm planning on just buying new anyways, but don't want to get the wrong thing.
Just my opinion(and experience) here but, if I were NOT going to buy an aftermarket Upgrade alternator, I would check locally for a starter/alternator repair shop and get my original repaired. Saves a few bucks and I truly believe you get a better part.