Best 360 4 barrel intake manifold
#1
#3
#4
It's just a letter cast into the manifold. A basic, stock manifold.
Pic:
http://home.windstream.net/bsprowl/I...SIntake1-1.jpg
Bantering about the same, with some info on the different manifolds. The "T" manifold is similar, but from later model year trucks iirc.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-manifold.html
Pic:
http://home.windstream.net/bsprowl/I...SIntake1-1.jpg
Bantering about the same, with some info on the different manifolds. The "T" manifold is similar, but from later model year trucks iirc.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-manifold.html
#6
#7
Another note, all this whining and crying about the weight of these iron intakes, just how often do you plan on tearing this engine apart? Besides that when I was young like most of you, I lifted on and off the heavier CJ intake regularly on my race car. Grow some muscles.
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#8
Another note, all this whining and crying about the weight of these iron intakes, just how often do you plan on tearing this engine apart? Besides that when I was young like most of you, I lifted on and off the heavier CJ intake regularly on my race car. Grow some muscles.
#9
Agreed, the "S" or "T" will be the easiest to locate and cheapest to buy. These intakes are identified this way because aside from there casting number they have a large "S" or "T" cast on them. ex: casting # D4TE 9425 with a big "T" next to it. The "T" is marginally better than the "S".
There's also the C4 casting found on Thunderbirds and other passenger cars of the early to mid 60s (large thermostat housing) and the Edelbrock Performer, which are slightly better than the S or T, but they are harder to find or more money and you wouldn't notice much difference on a stock 360 between either of them and an S or T.
Which brings me to ask if you plan on keeping it a stock 360 or do you have future engine plans? If you plan on rebuilding this at some point and making 350+hp I would go ahead and start looking at aftermarket stuff or try to find a CJ intake. I built mine that way, piece by piece as I could afford it. First a Performer RPM intake, then heads, then a carb (couldn't use it at the time too much cfm), then finally the stroker kit and cam. Then that sat around while I scrounged up the money for machine work. lol This was spread out over 2yrs but eventually I got it done. If you have something like this in mind, it would be good to go ahead and plan out your build and start buying those parts as you can.
And Wulff, we lift heavy things because we're MEN *Tim Allen haugh haugh haugh* lol
There's also the C4 casting found on Thunderbirds and other passenger cars of the early to mid 60s (large thermostat housing) and the Edelbrock Performer, which are slightly better than the S or T, but they are harder to find or more money and you wouldn't notice much difference on a stock 360 between either of them and an S or T.
Which brings me to ask if you plan on keeping it a stock 360 or do you have future engine plans? If you plan on rebuilding this at some point and making 350+hp I would go ahead and start looking at aftermarket stuff or try to find a CJ intake. I built mine that way, piece by piece as I could afford it. First a Performer RPM intake, then heads, then a carb (couldn't use it at the time too much cfm), then finally the stroker kit and cam. Then that sat around while I scrounged up the money for machine work. lol This was spread out over 2yrs but eventually I got it done. If you have something like this in mind, it would be good to go ahead and plan out your build and start buying those parts as you can.
And Wulff, we lift heavy things because we're MEN *Tim Allen haugh haugh haugh* lol
#10
I've done the cast iron intake R&R a few times over the years, as well as head R&R on a FE. I have learned a few things along the way. Most importantly, a cherry picker is your bestest buddy in the world when it comes to getting the intake off. Sure, I *can* do it by hand, but why would I, when the picker is SO much easier......
#13
It varies from 72-80lbs depending on what you have. No small thing but it's not too bad in a truck if you have the hood off. Lets you straddle the engine with feet on the inner fenders and just pick it straight up and put it straight down on install. But then I am pretty tall @ 6'3", maybe everyone couldn't do it this way.
If you have to lean into an engine bay and do it by yourself, it can be pretty rough. Learned that the first time. Hood comes off from now on! lol
A 12pack of brew and a buddy makes short work of it though.
If you have to lean into an engine bay and do it by yourself, it can be pretty rough. Learned that the first time. Hood comes off from now on! lol
A 12pack of brew and a buddy makes short work of it though.
#14
It varies from 72-80lbs depending on what you have. No small thing but it's not too bad in a truck if you have the hood off. Lets you straddle the engine with feet on the inner fenders and just pick it straight up and put it straight down on install. But then I am pretty tall @ 6'3", maybe everyone couldn't do it this way.
If you have to lean into an engine bay and do it by yourself, it can be pretty rough. Learned that the first time. Hood comes off from now on! lol
A 12pack of brew and a buddy makes short work of it though.
If you have to lean into an engine bay and do it by yourself, it can be pretty rough. Learned that the first time. Hood comes off from now on! lol
A 12pack of brew and a buddy makes short work of it though.
#15
When I went looking for a 2bbl manifold, without egr for he 360 in my 65, I had to lift it off the block and slide it up over the radiator to get it out of the raised junkyard truck by myself (6'1" 170lbs.). Then when I put it on the 65 I used a 6 foot 2x4 with the manifold suspended in the middle and me on one end and my wife on the other end. By the time we lowered it onto the block it was getting dark under the hood but we managed. Used the standard cork end gaskets and got a perfect vacuum and oil leak free seal. Hopefully if it is on the ground one is good with dead weights lifts...