Surging Issue Continued
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,066
Likes: 240
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
I dont think it would be a good idea to run extended periods of time and probably wouldnt run normal
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
well i went out and tried this... i unplugged it at an idle and it seemed to rough idle a little more unplugged but drive a little better... i already ordered a new one for my truck so i guess we will see... i really just want to know if its gonna help...
sorry not trying to hijack...
sorry not trying to hijack...
Thread Starter
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Master of Disaster
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
Ok so an update since i cant get on the mobile site......replaced my ICP and Pigtail, truck seems to run waaaay better....more throttle response (could just be my imagination), seems to have more power (went back to stock tuning to diagnose problem) and it pretty much eliminated the surging/cutting out issue, but about 5psi and below it still cuts out. Also i noticed my boost gauge(aftermarket) needle seems steadier when on the pedal....but again this could all just be me.....now the big question, what else could cause this cutting out thing??
Thanks for all you help! (especially Cheezit)
Thanks for all you help! (especially Cheezit)
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
i too replaced the ICP sensor... but not the pigtail.. i didnt seem to notice any real difference :/ i guess imma do the ebp sensor and retest my FICM and possibly reflow it... i just hate that if i floor it the truck runs fine... but as soon as it kicks down to low rpms itll shake bad when its cold... way worse cold than hot... IDK let me know if you find out anything else...
Thread Starter
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Master of Disaster
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
Yeah, i replaced EBP and MAP, didnt seem to help. My next try is IPR, if it isnt that, then ill break down and have the Stealership scan it and do a road test.....
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
what about mass air flow? id like to have my identical truck sitting next to mine running fine and i could just swap out all sensors to see if one fixes it before i buy it ya know hahah... these little things are $higher$ than ****
Thread Starter
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Master of Disaster
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
So i finally figured oit the issue. I was driving the truck this morning and throttle pedal quit working. I just replaced it 2 months ago with an aftermarket unit from Oriely Auto Parts. I restarted truck and got it home. Got a replacement throttle pedal assy from Ford, fixed my surging issues!
Cross-Country
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 63
Likes: 7
Try the vgt relearn procedure
KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:
15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn" its adaptive strategy.
Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed.
As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was re-flashed.
KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:
15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn" its adaptive strategy.
Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed.
As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was re-flashed.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,066
Likes: 240
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Haha
X2
The throttle pedal must have been the cure as the thread ended
And chalk up another one for oem parts only
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