I replaced my gpr yesterday and even after that ran a screwdriver across the two top posts and still couldnt get it to fire besides its not that cold here yet,

 

I think some more detailed information might be necessary here... I didn't even know the truck was cranking until post#8...

Have you done anything to the truck recently? How many miles? How is your oil level? How long has that oil been in there? Fuel pressure? Do you have a scanner? What is the level of the HPOP res? How long since you changed the fuel filter/cleaned the FPR screen?

Just a few questions for ya...

 

yesterday put in new batts, new gpr, new fuel filter,probably 1000 miles away from oil and air filter change.Oil level is good.pickup cranks but wont start.checked oil level in hpop had to add a quart to bring to fill it.cranked the engine for a bit checked it again the level went down almost an 1 1/2".also checked pressure @ fuel line while cranking the engine about 15#s.also pulled the icp to check for a change nothing changed when trying to start it.there is a rapid clicking @ or by the fuel pump.fuel pump was changed by a mechanic 5/6 months ago also new plugs about4/5 months ago.Also checked for codes and supprisingly enough no codes.very stumped

 

Is the rapid clicking occurring when the key is in RUN or only while cranking?

 

check under hood fuse box for blown fuses

 

checked fuses they look fine.the clicking noise only occurs when I try to start it not while the key is in the on position

 

OK, lets get down to the details ... there is no relay close to the fuel pump so I think you need to do some more investigation where the clicking really is coming from. If indeed it is at the fuel pump then the fuel pump is toast or maybe the plunger riding on the cam is busted, don't know. I don't think we are going to get anywhere here until you find the "clicking area". Surely it can't be that hard to isolate.

I'm giving a WAG but check the starter relay on the passenger fender and the front connector is the main power point on distribution to the truck. Make sure that connection lug is secure and tight.

 

If the engine is cranking, it's not the starter relay that's clicking. The GPR is not that far from the fuel pump; it's possible that the engine is turning, but the starter is pulling the voltage down enough to make the GPR cycle on and off. It _might_ be illustrative to turn the key to RUN for maybe 30-45 seconds, to give the GPs a good long run, then quickly disconnect the GP relay and then try to start the truck. One way to do this would be to remove the nut that holds the small wire that goes to the PCM (the one that's NOT red/green; I forget the color/s), but leave the ring terminal on the lug. Then, after running the GPs with the key in RUN for a while, just pull that wire off before trying to start it. This is just as an experiment, to see if the GPs plus the starter are too much of a power draw on the batteries.

One question that I don't think has been asked - is the engine cranking slower than expected with the key turned to START?

 

all right I dont know where the clicking is coming from and also doesnt seem to be right at the fuel pump.But while its blowing out greyish exhaust while its being turned over I ran a screw driver across the gpr posts and didnt get any spark even when the WTS light was on.

 

starter soleniod.replaced it yesterday,started fine this morning.thanks nieghber.