Adjusting C6 Transmission
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
Adjusting C6 Transmission
I put a Transgo reprogramming kit in . In the directions they had a very specific procedure about adjusting the tension on the band. I cant for the life of me find the paperwork that explains it. Does anybody know what or how this is done?
The directions said something about being able to turn the driveshaft by hand in the forward rotation, but , not in the reverse. However, I dont have any idea if this in N or D or if the truck should be running . No idea and of course their tech support is closed right now.
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The directions said something about being able to turn the driveshaft by hand in the forward rotation, but , not in the reverse. However, I dont have any idea if this in N or D or if the truck should be running . No idea and of course their tech support is closed right now.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: CASA GRANDE AZ
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
Thank you CJ!
Ok , I found it.
Most procedures for tightening up the intermediate band for the C6 goes like this:
Back off the retaining nut from the adjustment bolt. Then torque adjustment bolt to 120 inch pounds or 10 ftlbs. After that is done back the adjustment bolt off 1-1/2 turns. After that is complete hold the adjustment bolt with a wrench so that it doesnt move while tightening the retaining nut to 35 ftlbs.
However, The transgo reprogramming kit (67-#1 and #2) instructions go like this:
Snug adjustment screw with a short wrench. Notice that the output shaft or driveshaft will not turn backwards by hand with the screw tightened. (Wheels off the ground, trans in neutral and engine off).Loosen screw slowly until you can just turn the output shaft or driveshaft backwards by hand. Then loosen 1/4 turn more and tighten locknut.
I dont know what the difference is between the adjustment procedures, but , I have this reprogramming kit in my transmission. So I feel inclined to use this technique instead of the other standard procedure I listed above.
Ok , I found it.
Most procedures for tightening up the intermediate band for the C6 goes like this:
Back off the retaining nut from the adjustment bolt. Then torque adjustment bolt to 120 inch pounds or 10 ftlbs. After that is done back the adjustment bolt off 1-1/2 turns. After that is complete hold the adjustment bolt with a wrench so that it doesnt move while tightening the retaining nut to 35 ftlbs.
However, The transgo reprogramming kit (67-#1 and #2) instructions go like this:
Snug adjustment screw with a short wrench. Notice that the output shaft or driveshaft will not turn backwards by hand with the screw tightened. (Wheels off the ground, trans in neutral and engine off).Loosen screw slowly until you can just turn the output shaft or driveshaft backwards by hand. Then loosen 1/4 turn more and tighten locknut.
I dont know what the difference is between the adjustment procedures, but , I have this reprogramming kit in my transmission. So I feel inclined to use this technique instead of the other standard procedure I listed above.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Yes, I'd use the Transgo instructions since it is their kit. My guess, and this is only a guess, is that you arrive at about the same spot, but they assumed that few people have an inch-pound torque wrench.
Speaking of that, I'm considering buying something to calibrate torque wrenches with since I have several and they do not agree. For instance, my clicker-style inch-pound wrench reads low compared to my beam-style, which I had assumed is accurate because the beam shouldn't change. But, when I used it to torque down the pan bolts I felt like they went in too tightly. Given that I'm seriously considering getting the Eastwood device that goes between a ratchet and socket and gives a reading to within +/- 1%.
So, when you come to something like the C6 and it calls for an accurate torque to adjust, I'm not sure which wrench to use. And that's why I like the Transgo approach - no torque wrench needed.
Speaking of that, I'm considering buying something to calibrate torque wrenches with since I have several and they do not agree. For instance, my clicker-style inch-pound wrench reads low compared to my beam-style, which I had assumed is accurate because the beam shouldn't change. But, when I used it to torque down the pan bolts I felt like they went in too tightly. Given that I'm seriously considering getting the Eastwood device that goes between a ratchet and socket and gives a reading to within +/- 1%.
So, when you come to something like the C6 and it calls for an accurate torque to adjust, I'm not sure which wrench to use. And that's why I like the Transgo approach - no torque wrench needed.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Marysville, WA
Gary, check this link: How to perform your own torque wrench calibration testing - GL1800Riders
And Bruno, I would use the TransGo procedure. I have used many of their parts and they have not let me down.
And Bruno, I would use the TransGo procedure. I have used many of their parts and they have not let me down.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
Stang - Thanks. I found the video equivalent of that page and came to the conclusion that it would be fiddly to do that test on all my wrenches at several points on their scale. (And, btw, while sometimes videos are better than written procedures, this is one case where the written is the best.)
I remembered seeing something at Eastwood that was intended for calibrating torque wrenches. But, I can't find it in their catalog so am looking at their Torque-Angle Adaptor: Electronic Torque Angle Adapter - Eastwood It is said to be +/- 1% from 15 to 150, and also does the angle trick which newer engines require.
But, that device won't calibrate the smaller wrenches so I may have to resort to the approach you sent. If I do go down the dangle-the-weight path I may just do it on all the wrenches. I think I have some bar bell weights that would be a good start, so am seriously thinking of doing that.
Thanks again.
I remembered seeing something at Eastwood that was intended for calibrating torque wrenches. But, I can't find it in their catalog so am looking at their Torque-Angle Adaptor: Electronic Torque Angle Adapter - Eastwood It is said to be +/- 1% from 15 to 150, and also does the angle trick which newer engines require.
But, that device won't calibrate the smaller wrenches so I may have to resort to the approach you sent. If I do go down the dangle-the-weight path I may just do it on all the wrenches. I think I have some bar bell weights that would be a good start, so am seriously thinking of doing that.
Thanks again.
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Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Broken Arrow , OK
The clicker style of torque wrenches have to be unloaded after use. If you are leaving the spring loaded up then it will not be accurate after a while. Take em down below zero for storage.
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FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Actually, mine have a designated position to stop at instead of below zero. And, I've been religious in doing that.
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