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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

94 Crew Cab back door lock

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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 03:46 PM
  #16  
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NumberDummy
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Originally Posted by slowjack
Mine has been inoperable for the past couple years so I'm not in any hurry to spend the $300 buying the actuator. I think I'm going to need to spend it on replacing my rusty radiator support this spring instead ($800). I just replaced the rear fuel tank recently, plus parts for the spare tire holder, glow plug relay, serpentine belt, and all the filters so I need to give my wallet a little rest.
The radiator support with a gasser engine is different than with a diesel.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #17  
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Thanks Bill - appreciate your P/N assistance on this FTE site.
Jack
 
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 02:04 AM
  #18  
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Just disconnect the actuator rod from the latch box - my actuator was frozen up so the door wouldn't even lock at all before I removed the actuator (sitting on my shop bench now).

There is no way in hades that I am going to spend $250 for a new actuator - I will find something out in the pick-a-part and make it work. I do understand the above information that the rear door actuators are different, but I have yet to figure out in what exact way. I suspect that it won't be difficult to retrofit something else (heck, even a universal actuator) in there. I'll post back here if I ever figure anything out, but it's pretty low priority. For now, it's manual lock/unlock of that rear door.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 02:51 AM
  #19  
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Unhappy Hey yall

Howdy yall,
I agree with about the acuater I had the same problem 1989 F350 but I got it out of a neighbors parts truck. Heres the thing you need to be careful going to a pick a part. They sometimes don't work and you are out how much money you paid. Sometimes it is just better to spend the money on a new one even if it expensive. I say this on all electrical things. I got a window motor from a truck the same as I was going to put it onto to replace on my dads 1986 F150 and it ended up not working I was out $50. Plus if your junkyards are as crazy as mine you will pay that much. I went for a 1964 tailgate picked one up asked how much they said 300 no handle or anything plus it had body cancer through it. Just a reminder I wanted to put out there. Plus if I were you I would just go through the other door.
Trav
 
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #20  
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Just visited my local Ford parts guy. Yep, they are $250 or more. Though we use all 4 doors of the truck almost daily, we will unlock the door manually until I get time to see if I can repair the existing one.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2011 | 10:42 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LeoJr
Just visited my local Ford parts guy. Yep, they are $250 or more.
See post #5 for the Ford part number, applications, MSRP and FTE member discount prices, and...

As of 11/28/2011, actual dealer net cost is: $198.11 .. each.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2015 | 04:37 PM
  #22  
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rear door lock actuator

Originally Posted by NumberDummy
See post #5 for the Ford part number, applications, MSRP and FTE member discount prices, and...

As of 11/28/2011, actual dealer net cost is: $198.11 .. each.
If you are careful, you can take any of the 80-97 ones apart and just reuse the rod... You pop off the little round keeper , similar to the one your little wagon's axles you pulled around as a kid, then remove the 3 small ball bearings under the collar,,, swap and reinstall...
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 01:36 PM
  #23  
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Why is it riveted.gay
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 01:37 PM
  #24  
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How do u remove it? Cut rivet
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 04:55 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by crash1
Why is it riveted.gay
Good luck getting in there to put a nut and bolt


Originally Posted by crash1
How do u remove it? Cut rivet
Grind the head off
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 04:57 PM
  #26  
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My 94 crew I just got you can't even lock the rear driver side door...it just won't move...
 
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 05:49 PM
  #27  
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It is riveted to increase speed of assembly.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 10:12 AM
  #28  
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Well i did it.should have taken pics but forgot to.got an accuator for a front door that was 35 bucksfrom napa because they figured to was the same for a rear door also.turns out they arent but it came with the metal bracket so i welded a nut on it and removed the old one and bolted in place and mad a new rod for it and tada it works great i also had to make a plug in for it too sence it was different too
 
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 11:54 AM
  #29  
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On mine there was
 
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 04:08 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by crash1
Well i did it.should have taken pics but forgot to.got an accuator for a front door that was 35 bucksfrom napa because they figured to was the same for a rear door also.turns out they arent but it came with the metal bracket so i welded a nut on it and removed the old one and bolted in place and mad a new rod for it and tada it works great i also had to make a plug in for it too sence it was different too
They really screwed you over. The actuator is the same front and rear. The only difference is the rod. All you needed to do (if they got you the right actuator) was swap your old rod to the new actuator
 
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