a little better performance
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a little better performance
96 F150 XL 302 E4OD 4x4 reg cab long bed.
It would be nice to get a little better mileage and performance out of the truck.
Right now I still have the original distributor cap and spark plug wires. I also have the stock muffler and I'm using decent but standard brand 5w-30 oil when I change it.
so my questions are:
1. will a magnaflow 44 or similar make any difference in mileage/performance or is it all just about the sound?
2. with stock manifolds does it matter even for the sound?
3. will replacing my wires/dist cap make a difference or is it just good maintenance to do so?
4. any recomendations as to dist cap/wire replacement sets?
5. should I be using a fancy/synthetic oil or should I just keep on using standard 5w-30?
Many thanks!
It would be nice to get a little better mileage and performance out of the truck.
Right now I still have the original distributor cap and spark plug wires. I also have the stock muffler and I'm using decent but standard brand 5w-30 oil when I change it.
so my questions are:
1. will a magnaflow 44 or similar make any difference in mileage/performance or is it all just about the sound?
2. with stock manifolds does it matter even for the sound?
3. will replacing my wires/dist cap make a difference or is it just good maintenance to do so?
4. any recomendations as to dist cap/wire replacement sets?
5. should I be using a fancy/synthetic oil or should I just keep on using standard 5w-30?
Many thanks!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
None of the things listed will make a noticable difference.. unless the wires are worn out and needed to be replced for example. What size tires are on the truck? If they're significantly larger than stock and your truck has less the 3.55s a regear will be the single best performance mod you can make.
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thanks for responding Conanski. The tires are 265/75's with factory 15" aluminum alloy rims. Nothing radical. I think I am going to change the dist cap, rotor, and wires anyway. I read where this is recommended 100K miles maintenance. while I've got the wires off I might as well clean up the valve covers and put some of the por15 high temp paint on them. wont make a lick of difference, but as you say "what's that got to do with it"
One other question: I was originally going to purchase some of the Bosch high performance spark plugs but was advised against this at the parts store. They claimed that the Bosch run hotter than the standard copper core plugs and that while that is fine for a smaller engine that runs hotter anyway it was not good for and older v8 such as mine. (I have not independently confirmed this). So my question is: If I buy a set of lower resistance spark plug wires (500 ohm) would this have any negative effect on the the copper plugs? My instinct tells me no, that the current is regulated and therefor the lowered resistance in the line would simply deliver the current to the plug about 1/2 nanosecond faster and that is the only difference, but what do I know?
One other question: I was originally going to purchase some of the Bosch high performance spark plugs but was advised against this at the parts store. They claimed that the Bosch run hotter than the standard copper core plugs and that while that is fine for a smaller engine that runs hotter anyway it was not good for and older v8 such as mine. (I have not independently confirmed this). So my question is: If I buy a set of lower resistance spark plug wires (500 ohm) would this have any negative effect on the the copper plugs? My instinct tells me no, that the current is regulated and therefor the lowered resistance in the line would simply deliver the current to the plug about 1/2 nanosecond faster and that is the only difference, but what do I know?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Kentucky
Good quality spark plug wires and good ol' copper plugs have been a demonstrated best value time after time on these trucks. A good quality cap with brass terminals and fresh rotor round out the package.
Many of us also bump the base timing from the factory 10 degrees to 12-16 depending on your truck, location, and fuel.
Those tires are not helping you any either. As Paul noted before if your truck has a numerically lower gear than 3.55 it is really hindering your performance potential. The factory converters on these trucks are well known bottlenecks. Replacing them with a single modern 3-way will also be a best bang for your buck in performance and mileage.
Many of us also bump the base timing from the factory 10 degrees to 12-16 depending on your truck, location, and fuel.
Those tires are not helping you any either. As Paul noted before if your truck has a numerically lower gear than 3.55 it is really hindering your performance potential. The factory converters on these trucks are well known bottlenecks. Replacing them with a single modern 3-way will also be a best bang for your buck in performance and mileage.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2009
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From: Tobyhanma, PA
A new exhaust system is a good upgrade too. Long tube headers and a custom Y-pipe with a hi-flow cat and your choice of muffler.
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1. Yes a modern muffler will make a difference, but the real bottleneck is in the catalytic converter.
2. There are big improvements to be made in a long tube header and dual exhaust. As far as sound is concerned, if you had true duals, the header will generally make the exhaust quieter.
3 & 4. There can be improvements in changing to quality wire, cap and rotor and plugs. I prefer Taylor wires, MSD cap and rotors and Autolite plugs. There is a great article for tuneups called the 6 liter tuneup.
5. Depending on the milage of your motor, there can be improvements in the lubrication department. It's arguable as to whether it is cost effective, but if you plan on keeping your truck of enjoy having it run in good shape it can make a difference. Changing your trucks lubricants to synthetic will decrease resistance in your drivetrain.
2. There are big improvements to be made in a long tube header and dual exhaust. As far as sound is concerned, if you had true duals, the header will generally make the exhaust quieter.
3 & 4. There can be improvements in changing to quality wire, cap and rotor and plugs. I prefer Taylor wires, MSD cap and rotors and Autolite plugs. There is a great article for tuneups called the 6 liter tuneup.
5. Depending on the milage of your motor, there can be improvements in the lubrication department. It's arguable as to whether it is cost effective, but if you plan on keeping your truck of enjoy having it run in good shape it can make a difference. Changing your trucks lubricants to synthetic will decrease resistance in your drivetrain.
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"5. Depending on the milage of your motor, there can be improvements in the lubrication department. It's arguable as to whether it is cost effective, but if you plan on keeping your truck of enjoy having it run in good shape it can make a difference. Changing your trucks lubricants to synthetic will decrease resistance in your drivetrain."
when you say "changing you trucks lubricats to synthetic" are you talking about a high quality synthetic motor oil or is there more you are referring to?
I'm not ready to do headers and a custom exhaust. is there any benefit to just replacing the old stock muffler with a flow master or packs?
I'll check out the 6ltune up thread you recommended.
I will buy the better wires, dist cap and rotor, seems like a no brainer.
thanks all!
Oh BTW miles on truck: 110K, not bad for a 96.
when you say "changing you trucks lubricats to synthetic" are you talking about a high quality synthetic motor oil or is there more you are referring to?
I'm not ready to do headers and a custom exhaust. is there any benefit to just replacing the old stock muffler with a flow master or packs?
I'll check out the 6ltune up thread you recommended.
I will buy the better wires, dist cap and rotor, seems like a no brainer.
thanks all!
Oh BTW miles on truck: 110K, not bad for a 96.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20,786
Likes: 1,751
From: Kentucky
"5. Depending on the milage of your motor, there can be improvements in the lubrication department. It's arguable as to whether it is cost effective, but if you plan on keeping your truck of enjoy having it run in good shape it can make a difference. Changing your trucks lubricants to synthetic will decrease resistance in your drivetrain."
when you say "changing you trucks lubricats to synthetic" are you talking about a high quality synthetic motor oil or is there more you are referring to?
I'm not ready to do headers and a custom exhaust. is there any benefit to just replacing the old stock muffler with a flow master or packs?
I'll check out the 6ltune up thread you recommended.
I will buy the better wires, dist cap and rotor, seems like a no brainer.
thanks all!
Oh BTW miles on truck: 110K, not bad for a 96.
when you say "changing you trucks lubricats to synthetic" are you talking about a high quality synthetic motor oil or is there more you are referring to?
I'm not ready to do headers and a custom exhaust. is there any benefit to just replacing the old stock muffler with a flow master or packs?
I'll check out the 6ltune up thread you recommended.
I will buy the better wires, dist cap and rotor, seems like a no brainer.
thanks all!
Oh BTW miles on truck: 110K, not bad for a 96.
Your truck is a 1996 so it running an OBD-II Powertrain Control system. It is going to be a little more involved to work on the exhaust. You have two oxygen sensors ahead of the converters and one behind. Finding an off the shelf replacements is a lot more difficult.
Many have been very happy with keeping the factory manifolds and using an aftermarket y-pipe with a single high flow converter. It's that third O2 sensor that can be a devil to work with. There are ways of "tricking it", but it will be something you will have to deal with if you go down the exhaust route.
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Sounds like I will leave the current exhaust as it is. There is a tiny hole in the seam of the muffler but it is not serious at all, so why go looking for trouble
I cant tell what rear gearing I have because the truck is currently @ a buddy's shop. In looking around I did find this site which offers a lot of info about tracking down the right parts for the drivetrain:
Ford 8.8 Ring Gear & Pinion Sets; Rear End Parts & Application Information - Drivetrain.com
thanks again to all of you for your info and opinions!
Best regards!
Phil
I cant tell what rear gearing I have because the truck is currently @ a buddy's shop. In looking around I did find this site which offers a lot of info about tracking down the right parts for the drivetrain:
Ford 8.8 Ring Gear & Pinion Sets; Rear End Parts & Application Information - Drivetrain.com
thanks again to all of you for your info and opinions!
Best regards!
Phil
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 8,843
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From: Eastern Ky
Sounds like I will leave the current exhaust as it is. There is a tiny hole in the seam of the muffler but it is not serious at all, so why go looking for trouble
I cant tell what rear gearing I have because the truck is currently @ a buddy's shop. In looking around I did find this site which offers a lot of info about tracking down the right parts for the drivetrain:
Ford 8.8 Ring Gear & Pinion Sets; Rear End Parts & Application Information - Drivetrain.com
thanks again to all of you for your info and opinions!
Best regards!
Phil
I cant tell what rear gearing I have because the truck is currently @ a buddy's shop. In looking around I did find this site which offers a lot of info about tracking down the right parts for the drivetrain:
Ford 8.8 Ring Gear & Pinion Sets; Rear End Parts & Application Information - Drivetrain.com
thanks again to all of you for your info and opinions!
Best regards!
Phil
Look on the door jamb when you get to see the truck again...
it'll have a code....E.I-
12-2.73(IIRC)
17-3.31 (IIRC)
18-3.08
19-3.55
As for the Limited Slip deal...
H9=3.55 LS
You see the pattern here....
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 8,843
Likes: 27
From: Eastern Ky
Then...It begins....Subfolders out the wazoo....
1980-1986
1987-1991
1992-1996
THEN....
Component Diagrams-
-A/C Parts
-Suspension
-Alternator
-Starter
-Engines>300,302,351,351M, 460
-Transmissions>Mazda, ZF....4 speeds...
-Transfer Cases>BW1356/1345 and NP208
-Differentials
I mean, in all honesty....It'd take a few hours to review the lot of the info I have...And it is STILL growing...Everyday that I log onto this site...
