U Joint
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Boring Oregon
U Joint
So today was driving from parents to parents for thanks giving and its rainy here in oregon as we all know so i came to a stop light and felt like i havent really tried to do a good burn out in a while so i rev it up to about 3000 and dump the clutch and clunk clunk clunk and some banging and i thought Sh## im so dumb in the dark and raining so i climb under and take the old one out and drive home in 4 high. so sorry for the story but felt the need. what would be the best replacment for this? and should i do both sides of the drive line?
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
There's 2 types the greasable & non greasable one's. Which is best for you?
The strongest is the non greasable one. As it's not drilled for grease to flow thought to the end caps. The non greasable have a better water tight seal and don't lose grease unless seal is torn of damaged. This last time I went the non greasable ones they been in for about 5 yrs and still not any signs of the seal leaking. So maybe you should go the the stronger one if your not the type of guy who grease his truck at every oil change 3000 3 month or even at 6000 miles. If you have the f250 with close knuckles ft axles u-joints those only get lube by the axle turning throwing lube up to the upper king pin and bearing. At 3000 mile or 3 months by locking hubs and drive about 5-10 miles. I use 140 wt. geae lube and some STP mixed in the each knuckle and manual steering box.
orich
The strongest is the non greasable one. As it's not drilled for grease to flow thought to the end caps. The non greasable have a better water tight seal and don't lose grease unless seal is torn of damaged. This last time I went the non greasable ones they been in for about 5 yrs and still not any signs of the seal leaking. So maybe you should go the the stronger one if your not the type of guy who grease his truck at every oil change 3000 3 month or even at 6000 miles. If you have the f250 with close knuckles ft axles u-joints those only get lube by the axle turning throwing lube up to the upper king pin and bearing. At 3000 mile or 3 months by locking hubs and drive about 5-10 miles. I use 140 wt. geae lube and some STP mixed in the each knuckle and manual steering box.
orich
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
From: Boring Oregon
There's 2 types the greasable & non greasable one's. Which is best for you?
The strongest is the non greasable one. As it's not drilled for grease to flow thought to the end caps. The non greasable have a better water tight seal and don't lose grease unless seal is torn of damaged. This last time I went the non greasable ones they been in for about 5 yrs and still not any signs of the seal leaking. So maybe you should go the the stronger one if your not the type of guy who grease his truck at every oil change 3000 3 month or even at 6000 miles. If you have the f250 with close knuckles ft axles u-joints those only get lube by the axle turning throwing lube up to the upper king pin and bearing. At 3000 mile or 3 months by locking hubs and drive about 5-10 miles. I use 140 wt. geae lube and some STP mixed in the each knuckle and manual steering box.
orich
The strongest is the non greasable one. As it's not drilled for grease to flow thought to the end caps. The non greasable have a better water tight seal and don't lose grease unless seal is torn of damaged. This last time I went the non greasable ones they been in for about 5 yrs and still not any signs of the seal leaking. So maybe you should go the the stronger one if your not the type of guy who grease his truck at every oil change 3000 3 month or even at 6000 miles. If you have the f250 with close knuckles ft axles u-joints those only get lube by the axle turning throwing lube up to the upper king pin and bearing. At 3000 mile or 3 months by locking hubs and drive about 5-10 miles. I use 140 wt. geae lube and some STP mixed in the each knuckle and manual steering box.
orich
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