Parking brake stuck......
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Weston Fl.
Parking brake stuck......
My parking brake is stuck and wont release. The handle is broken so I pulled the wire with some pliers and it don't move. I did notice a Lil rust on the mechanism so i figured id spray a lil wd40 and wiggle it a bit but no luck. I'm very handy but when dealing with spring loaded hardware things can be a Lil hairy for me. I need my nubs....
Also there's a box that looks like a hard drive up under there and it's blocking access to the brake joints and hardware.
What is it and can I remove it without causing any computer issues?
The brake doesn't seem to be engaged because the truck runs smooth. Doesn't seem like it's working.
I live in the Everglades area and we ain't got no hill round here but when working up underneath the truck i feel a whole lot safer knowing she ain't moving on me..
Any Ideas?
Also there's a box that looks like a hard drive up under there and it's blocking access to the brake joints and hardware.
What is it and can I remove it without causing any computer issues?
The brake doesn't seem to be engaged because the truck runs smooth. Doesn't seem like it's working.
I live in the Everglades area and we ain't got no hill round here but when working up underneath the truck i feel a whole lot safer knowing she ain't moving on me..
Any Ideas?
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,089
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From: Michigan
Your worries aren't up there with the lever, they're going to be back at the splitter that goes to each rear wheel brake. Most likely you've got something stuck there. parking brakes need to be used quite often in order to not freeze up. if you haven't used it in a long time it's best not to touch it.
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 608
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From: Weston Fl.
Your worries aren't up there with the lever, they're going to be back at the splitter that goes to each rear wheel brake. Most likely you've got something stuck there. parking brakes need to be used quite often in order to not freeze up. if you haven't used it in a long time it's best not to touch it.
My worries are that it might be just a bit engaged and i may be overworking the engine and feeling it at the pump. It runs good but I'm wandering if it might run better.
I'm gonna trace the cables in the morning and see if they been cut or altered. My feeling is the last owner engaged it and couldn't release it and someone disengaged the cables to release the brake but the pedal stayed down.
Any Idea what the box is behind the brake?
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Weston Fl.
I'm gonna give it another shot in the morn with better light.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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The PCM can be removed by loosening the 10mm bolt which holds it to the firewall. Access to the bolt is from the engine compartment. DO NOT turn on the ignition if you are messing around with the PCM. In fact, it is best to leave the keys in your pocket or in the house until the PCM is reinstalled.
But as mentioned before, your problem is probably much closer to the rear wheels. The parking brake consists of drum brake shoes that engage on the inside hub of the rear rotors. The cable that engages them can stick anywhere along its length, but especially near the rear wheel. The brake shoes or associated cams and springs inside the hub may become sticky as well, if they are not exercised from time to time. I try to remember to set the parking brake every time I park the truck in the driveway.
If, as you say, the parking brake does not appear to be engaged with the brake pedal applied; Oh, I forgot, you said the release handle was broken, also.I would think you would want to have that working correctly. You may want to use it some day. It beats carrying around a pair of wheel chocks.
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Weston Fl.
How desperate am I in need of that chip? And what does it do? I'm fairly new with these trucks....
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Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Michigan
Your not. What the poster is referring to is an aftermarket device that plugs into the PCM and alters the factory calibration to get more power.
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The handle is not too hard to change, around $40 if I recall. It was broken on mine when I got it. As others said, you'll just need to get underneath and start spraying penetrating oil in key places and work the cable until it's free.
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: near mm217 off I-70 in MO
Another area to check is inside the drum. That is where my problem was.
Check this thread for good pics of the inner workings.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
Check this thread for good pics of the inner workings.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
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Another area to check is inside the drum. That is where my problem was.
Check this thread for good pics of the inner workings.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
Check this thread for good pics of the inner workings.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
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More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 608
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From: Weston Fl.
Another area to check is inside the drum. That is where my problem was.
Check this thread for good pics of the inner workings.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
Check this thread for good pics of the inner workings.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
Thanks man, amazing thread.
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