Thanks. Now I have to find a punch of that size.

 

A nail has worked for me before

 

Yup. I used a nail with the tip filed off. Worked like a charm.

 

I went down to Sears & bought a $5 pin punch, 1/8" diameter, feels like it will fit.
I wonder if I can do remove the pin as illustrated in the YouTube below. Method didn't use a proper punch & seems kind of rough on the original master cylinder, but might make removal of the system a lot easier.
Press out roll pin that retains the hydraulic line to the clutch master cylinder - YouTube
The reinstallation looks a lot easier (this is something I've never before seen). I imagine installing the line this way sets up more air in the hydraulic system. At least the below video illustrates the effort in inserting a roll pin.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDb6z_Zix48

 

Getting it in is easy, getting it out can be a bit rough. Much better if you use a flat punch (not tapered) of equivalent size.

As long as the roll pin is tight, it doesn't really matter - it's not a sealing surface, it just keeps the clutch line from backing out.

Once you've done this, it'll all make sense.

Word of advice, don't touch the gold screw on the new slave cylinder, people swear up and down it's a bleed screw. All it will do is let you down.

 

The bleed screw is an allen head. I can't remember the exact size.

 

I had this on an '84 Bronco 2. I replaced the master cylinder and had perfect clutch. . . . . . . for 6 months, when the slave cylinder grenaded on me and I got to speed shift all the way home. (stopping to get it out of 4WD was a pain in the @r$3 but I got it done)

 

I just installed the reinforcement bracket on my truck. I had the dash, motor, brake/clutch pedal hanger and seat out out of the truck and it was still a pita. I would not use the template supplied with the kit to drill the hole. I used the template and one of the holes was way off. I would suggest to remove the clutch m/c nuts, then install repair brace, use it as a guide to drill the 2 additional holes at the same angle as the m/c. Then bolt the panel, remove m/c and finish drilling the 2 other holes on the side flange. It will be a pain if you have to work under the dash with the seat still in truck. Best of luck with your project!