Clutch adjustment??
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New User
Joined: Jan 2007
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Clutch adjustment??
Got my glow plugs working correctly. Thanks to all who helped.
Now I need some more help. Is there any adjustment for the clutch pedal?
The clutch engages too close to the floor, and does not fully disengage when pushed all the way to the floor. I looked under the dash and see what looks like an add on brace, I heard they had fire wall flex and cracking issues. This looks like it fixed it. The fire wall is not flexing or cracked that I can see. I checked the fluid level in the clutch reservore it is good. I checked underneath at the clutch cylinder and did not see any way to adjust. Is the only way to fix this to replace the clutch and pressure plate?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Troy
Now I need some more help. Is there any adjustment for the clutch pedal?
The clutch engages too close to the floor, and does not fully disengage when pushed all the way to the floor. I looked under the dash and see what looks like an add on brace, I heard they had fire wall flex and cracking issues. This looks like it fixed it. The fire wall is not flexing or cracked that I can see. I checked the fluid level in the clutch reservore it is good. I checked underneath at the clutch cylinder and did not see any way to adjust. Is the only way to fix this to replace the clutch and pressure plate?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Troy
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 549
Likes: 1
From: Mississippi
don't have answer, but have same problem. clutch engages fully within 1.5 inches from floor. don't really mind cause it's what i'm used to in previous truck, but makes it hell to get it in reverse, so makes me think i'm not getting fully disengaged w/pedal at floor. wondering if slave cylinder at throwout bearing arm is weak or leaking or failing. have '90 f-250 w/5 speed tranny. no clue what model the tranny is.
speedrdr
speedrdr
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Several things could be where your problems are coming from.
One of the ways to adjust the clutch travel is to remove the arm under the dash that the clutch master cylinder arm attaches to and reinstall it with the pin closer to the firewall. This is how you adjust the free play at the top of the pedal travel on non adjustable clutch master cylinder rods.
Also look at the pin the clutch master cylinder rod goes over, they do tend to wear out over the years. If that pin is wearing, the bushing over the pin wears out rather fast and causes the clutch master cylinder to wear out rather fast as well.
Also check the shaft that arm attaches to, the bushings for that shaft also wear out.
Excess play in any of those places can translate into clutch engagement at non ideal pedal heights.
One of the ways to adjust the clutch travel is to remove the arm under the dash that the clutch master cylinder arm attaches to and reinstall it with the pin closer to the firewall. This is how you adjust the free play at the top of the pedal travel on non adjustable clutch master cylinder rods.
Also look at the pin the clutch master cylinder rod goes over, they do tend to wear out over the years. If that pin is wearing, the bushing over the pin wears out rather fast and causes the clutch master cylinder to wear out rather fast as well.
Also check the shaft that arm attaches to, the bushings for that shaft also wear out.
Excess play in any of those places can translate into clutch engagement at non ideal pedal heights.
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Clutch help
Tyler199,
Get ready for some scraped knuckles.
The clutch has a crossover rod that is mounted above the clutch and brake pedals. The clutch pedal connects to one side and the other has a lever that pushes the rod on the clutch master cylinder. The nut above and between the gas and brake pedals must be removed and the lever that hooks into the clutch master cylinder must be removed from the crossover rod, and repositioned on the rod so that the lower part of the lever is closer to the firewall. then replace the locking nut and it should disengage the clutch a little farther from the firewall.
I found the easiest way was to remove the dash panel and instrument group. then you can get in there ( it is still a tight fit to get your hands up in there) and remove the nut, and pry the lever off and reposition it. The lever has grooves and is fitted onto the crossover shaft, and is a little difficult to get off.
Worked for me, hope it helps
Troy
85 F-250, 6.9idi, 4 spd manual, straight piped.
Get ready for some scraped knuckles.
The clutch has a crossover rod that is mounted above the clutch and brake pedals. The clutch pedal connects to one side and the other has a lever that pushes the rod on the clutch master cylinder. The nut above and between the gas and brake pedals must be removed and the lever that hooks into the clutch master cylinder must be removed from the crossover rod, and repositioned on the rod so that the lower part of the lever is closer to the firewall. then replace the locking nut and it should disengage the clutch a little farther from the firewall.
I found the easiest way was to remove the dash panel and instrument group. then you can get in there ( it is still a tight fit to get your hands up in there) and remove the nut, and pry the lever off and reposition it. The lever has grooves and is fitted onto the crossover shaft, and is a little difficult to get off.
Worked for me, hope it helps
Troy
85 F-250, 6.9idi, 4 spd manual, straight piped.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 549
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From: Mississippi
oooh, just what i wanted to hear was scraped knuckles. just getting skin back on left hand from last jaunt under there trying to work on the clutch disconnect safety switch. but at least there's hope for me too in getting clutch back to a better spot. diesel wrench at local ford place said it was adjusted and fixed when they did new clutch. CACA TORO don't think as much of him as used to. thanx guys for help. y'all are the best in the world for info.....even if it takes me two or three posts to understand it. 
speedrdr
speedrdr
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When my clutch pedal got low and I had trouble getting it into reverse I went the Ford dealer who sold me an adjustable clutch rod. This is the rod that goes from the pedal to the hydralic cylinder. This did the trick. Had to make minor length adjustments from time to tme but got another 100,000 miles (225,000 total) out of stock clutch. One proble is the adjustable rod does not allow the press to star/cruise control sensor to be plugged in, so you can start with clutch engaged and no cruise control.
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Originally Posted by tecrousore
...The clutch engages too close to the floor, and does not fully disengage when pushed all the way to the floor...
I had the same problem with my F350, it got so bad that I had to pump the clutch like mad just to get it into gear! I was told that a leaky slave cyl is the culprit. I added break fluid to the clutch master cyl., BUT I had to remove a boot under the cap. Then I SLOWLY (no splashing) pumped the pedal and refilled to the line. I added fluid 3 months ago and havent had a problem since.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 519
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From: Bountiful UT
I gotta say thanks to all you guys, I Never new you could adjust a hydrolic clutch, mine was doing the same a the first poster and after checking things out I found It has a adjustable rod from the pedal to the master cylinder, Just got back from a short test drive and all is good again!!!!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Tyler199,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
These are all 1983 and later model F250 and up diesel trucks.
You have a manual clutch on your 81 F100, the principle is the same but the adjustment is different.
If you have free play at the top of the clutch travel, you need to make the rod longer to release the clutch farther.
Push the pedal down with your hand, you can tell when the throw out bearing starts pressing on the pressure plate. You want some free travel at the top, but about 1/2" is plenty. You should be able to move the clutch fork a little by hand after you adjust the linkage.
If you have no free travel at the top and the clutch disengages the driveline at the floor, you are about due for a clutch.
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
These are all 1983 and later model F250 and up diesel trucks.
You have a manual clutch on your 81 F100, the principle is the same but the adjustment is different.
If you have free play at the top of the clutch travel, you need to make the rod longer to release the clutch farther.
Push the pedal down with your hand, you can tell when the throw out bearing starts pressing on the pressure plate. You want some free travel at the top, but about 1/2" is plenty. You should be able to move the clutch fork a little by hand after you adjust the linkage.
If you have no free travel at the top and the clutch disengages the driveline at the floor, you are about due for a clutch.
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