Truck hits 25 psi of boost and then the clutch starts slipping. So I've been researching clutches. I'd love to save myself $280 and not have to buy a flywheel but I can only do this if my truck already has a SMF installed. IF it has a SMF installed, and I machine the surface down. Do I have to shim the back of the flywheel to match? ( A mechanic friend of mine was curious and brought it to my attention to ask you guys)

So I took a picture of it, hopefully someone can steer me in the correct direction on what it is.

 

That looks just like my Valair SMF and clutch setup.

 

That's a single mass flywheel. Just take it to the machine shop and have them surface it. No need for shims or anything when you put your new clutch on it. If you are looking at the Valair clutches, pick which one you want, call up there and talk to Gary or Dan. Tell them Cody from Death Row Diesel sent you, and they will hook you up with a better price than advertized. I like to pass that on to all my Ford guys. Dan, Gary and I all pull together, and they are good friends. So I like to send business their way when I can, and in turn, they take care of my people. Hope that helps man.

 

Thanks Cody. That means a lot to me. Also thanks for confirming that is a SMF. That'll save me from having to buy a new flywheel.

 

well i always have shimmed them b/c once you have it turned you use some and it wont be the right distance, the shim is cheap thats what ive learn idk that was on my 99 psd maybe its diff with the ods

 

What part did you shim? Your point is very valid, and as we all know every truck is different. From my perspective it's just not needed. When I was working with Dan at Valair building the double disks for our trucks, once we finished fitting up everything, we would put a single disk back in the truck till the next round of test fitting. Every time we would surface my flywheel and install a clutch with no shims. Never had an issue. I am in no way saying your wrong. If the flywheel is really chewed up, and the machine shop takes a lot off, you may in fact need to shim it. I'm just curious as to what you were shimming. The only way to get the distance back would be to shim in between the crank and flywheel. If you are shimming the pressure plate away from the flywheel, you are losing plateload for no reason.

 

I thought is was best to install a matching clutch kit when you switch from a DMF to SMF and that should take care of the open clearances at the bearing.

 

I was ONLY inquiring about shimming between the flywheel and the crank.

My mechanic neighbor brought it to my attention and told me to ask you guys. We were both unsure.

I have no problem shimmin' it if it's needed.

 

i shimmed between the crank and fly wheel i used a shim from ford, but like you said if you didnt take much off it shouldnt be a problem, mine had quite a bit off.

 

Hey Cody,

Ordered the clutch today. Talked to Heath? He hooked me up and gave me a discount.

Should be mailed out tomorrow or wednesday.

Thanks again.

 

Good deal then there should not be any need for shimming now--right?

 

Nope, no shimming.

 

Good deal, I dont like to shim, I would rather do the clutch and SMF at the same time that way you get a new wear pattern. Was the cost okay?

 

The cost is what it is... it's a big 13inch truck clutch rated for 500 hp/1000 ft-lbs. with ceramic/kevlar buttons.

I didn't need a flywheel, so that saved me some coin. My truck already was converted to a SMF. My clutch works fine if I stay under 25psi boost. That seems to be the magical number when mine slips out. I could easily go for months without a clutch upgrade. But I want to put it in that 100hp or 140hp tune and "have at it" on the highway. Plus, my employee has a worked up subaru and we're gonna do a highway pull off. LOL, all fun and games.

 

Okay Sounds like my southbend clutch

from your first post I guess I misunderstood

Truck hits 25 psi of boost and then the clutch starts slipping. So I've been researching clutches. I'd love to save myself $280 and not have to buy a flywheel but I can only do this if my truck already has a SMF installed. IF it has a SMF installed, and I machine the surface down. Do I have to shim the back of the flywheel to match?

I guess all them IFS had me think that you were thinking of installing a SMF and having to shim it since it was being switched from a DMF to a SMF.

0-well I missed it

Best of luck.