4 Wheel drive question
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
4 Wheel drive question
I am experiencing an issue with my 4 wheel drive. With hubs in auto and switch to 4 high I remain in 2 wheel drive. Light on dash illuminates saying I am in 4 high. If I get out and manually switch them then it works. I recently replaced ball joints right and left sides. I reused the Orings on the hub assembly they appeared to be in decent shape.
Any helpful ideas would be much appreciated. Happy Holidays.
Any helpful ideas would be much appreciated. Happy Holidays.
Strokin Okie
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 21
From: Oklahoma
There are a few things that can cause this issue. View the thread below to troubleshoot your (Pulse Vacuum Hub) Solenoid.
Have you noticed if your A/C switches to defrost when you switch in to 4X4?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...4wd-issue.html
Have you noticed if your A/C switches to defrost when you switch in to 4X4?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...4wd-issue.html
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
I will try the defrost option. I live in florida now instead of Alaska. I used 4wd all the time up there. I installed did the head gaskets and ball joints a year ago and have not used the 4wd till recently. Where is the valve located.
Thanks for the info for troubleshooting. Your scenario is exactly what I am experiencing
Thanks for the info for troubleshooting. Your scenario is exactly what I am experiencing
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 919
Likes: 0
From: Smiths Grove, KY
If you have ESOF then the light on your dash is turned on when a position switch is made by the transfer case motor. This doesn't absolutely mean that you are in 4 wheel drive. As Shaneb75 mentioned I would definitely look into the vacuum system that engages the front hubs when in the auto position.
Strokin Okie
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 21
From: Oklahoma
I will try the defrost option. I live in florida now instead of Alaska. I used 4wd all the time up there. I installed did the head gaskets and ball joints a year ago and have not used the 4wd till recently. Where is the valve located.
Thanks for the info for troubleshooting. Your scenario is exactly what I am experiencing
Thanks for the info for troubleshooting. Your scenario is exactly what I am experiencing
If I remember correctly the part was about 45.00, if that is the problem.
Good luck!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
Found it. Would have bit me. Checked all the lines they were good. Turned truck on. Turned on A/C and put in 4wd. A/C did not shift so I am to believe I do not have a vaccum leak. At least not past the valve if it is not opening to engage the hubs. I am at work now so I will follow the troubleshooting tree when I get home. Again thanks for the info and have a good turkey day!!
Strokin Okie
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 21
From: Oklahoma
The A/C issue as a symptom that I experienced and also pointed me to the failed solenoid. If it does check out fine, I would look for a vacuum leak. I was told that the hub seal is a common failure as well. Not sure how true that is though.
You have a great Thanksgiving day as well!
You have a great Thanksgiving day as well!
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 170
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Ok got a meter. Performed check of closed and open sides. Heard a click but also heard something else. If I understand this system correctly when if everything downstream of the solenoid was air tight I might have a minor pressure drop in the vaccum sys when the valve opens. I heard straight up airflow like someone on a straw. when enough pressure dropped the vaccum pump kicked on. I am going to assume at this point that I need to change the seals both left and right hand side being I changed all 4 Ball joints unless someone disagrees.
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Strokin Okie
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 21
From: Oklahoma
Ok got a meter. Performed check of closed and open sides. Heard a click but also heard something else. If I understand this system correctly when if everything downstream of the solenoid was air tight I might have a minor pressure drop in the vaccum sys when the valve opens. I heard straight up airflow like someone on a straw. when enough pressure dropped the vaccum pump kicked on. I am going to assume at this point that I need to change the seals both left and right hand side being I changed all 4 Ball joints unless someone disagrees.
Before changing the seals out, I would follow the vacuum lines out and make sure they are not broke/cracked somewhere.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 170
Likes: 1
Thanks ShaneB. This morning while driving in to work i decided to put it into 4 high while my vents were on face. Sure enough after about 15 seconds it switched to defrost from which i understand is the default position. I checked the hoses to each hub. No cracks or breaks. Called Ford they want 27.00 for each hub seal and snap ring. A bit rediculous but if thats what it takes.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
The hub o-ring kit should contain 2 o-rings and one snap ring. One o-ring is for testing and the other is for final installation. So you should only need one kit.
Keep in mind, though, that this is just the outer vacuum seal. There is a yellow o-ring that seals the entire hub assembly from the back. If this seal is leaking, you will need to disassemble everything and replace it.
Guzzle's needle bearing service write up, and his hub service write up, describe both of these seals.
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
It would be well worth getting a hand vacuum pump and gauge and testing the hubs to see if they are indeed leaking before you tear into it.
Keep in mind, though, that this is just the outer vacuum seal. There is a yellow o-ring that seals the entire hub assembly from the back. If this seal is leaking, you will need to disassemble everything and replace it.
Guzzle's needle bearing service write up, and his hub service write up, describe both of these seals.
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Needle Bearing Maintenance Web Page
Welcome to guzzle's 4x4 Autolock Hub Lubrication Maintenance Web Page
It would be well worth getting a hand vacuum pump and gauge and testing the hubs to see if they are indeed leaking before you tear into it.
Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 155
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal.
Talk about the timeliness of a thread! I just experienced the same basic issue last week pulling my fully loaded 35' toy hauler into Dumont Dunes (at night). I've never had a problem before towing through the soft stuff but did this time and immediately got stuck. An hour and half and two Dodge 4x's later I was out. Now I know what to look for and hope that this will solve my issue.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: Denver CO
Funny, the timing!! I have both inner fenders out right now to trace the vacuum lines because my hubs won't unlock.
I decided not to rebuild the automatic hubs. I do not want a finished product that may or may not work reliably. Instead I separated and and capped/plugged the vacuum lines at the 90 degree connection immediately after the solenoid near the right front fender. My Warn Premium manual hubs (PN 38826) should arrive tomorrow.
Wish I could get rid of all the other electronic crap on the truck. Something like a *****'s with a diesel engine and proper suspension would be my ideal truck.
I decided not to rebuild the automatic hubs. I do not want a finished product that may or may not work reliably. Instead I separated and and capped/plugged the vacuum lines at the 90 degree connection immediately after the solenoid near the right front fender. My Warn Premium manual hubs (PN 38826) should arrive tomorrow.
Wish I could get rid of all the other electronic crap on the truck. Something like a *****'s with a diesel engine and proper suspension would be my ideal truck.
Strokin Okie
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 21
From: Oklahoma
You might see if you can get a second person to listen for leaks as well. I guess I was lucky enough to have the solenoid crap out. Replacing the seals will be a pain.
Keep us posted on what the fix ends up being.
New User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Hi! I'm new here and have been looking for a solution to my 4X4 problem... mainly that I have no 4X4. I bought a used (185k) 2000 F350 Powerstroke. The Vacuum pump was burned out because the previous owner had disconnected it and so ran until it failed. Replaced pump and connected to "that little oval box thingy" and now my cab vents switch properly and I have heat! There must be a "T" connector missing somewhere because there seems to be no connection for the 4X4. Many of the vacuum line sections are just dangling or plain missing. How can I find out were to connect and run the lines? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!