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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Boiling carb issue, how to..?

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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 03:23 PM
  #1  
Flying Finn's Avatar
Flying Finn
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From: Miami Beach, FL
Boiling carb issue, how to..?

Hello folks,

I have 1968 F-100 with 360 and original 2 barrel carb and have a feeling I might have some carb boiling issues (searched the archives) since the start some times when hot is a bit problematic.

I think I'm going to get a 1" phenolic spacer and see what it does.

My question is:
I currently have the spacer with coolant hose running through it, do I just unbolt that, install the new phenolic spacer and plug off the hoses going through it?
(the "carb loop" is running now through the heater hose, there's a "T" fitting in one of the hoses and another sort of "Y" piece on top of the engine)

I live in Miami Beach so carb getting too cold shouldn't be an issue...
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 03:49 PM
  #2  
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I think you should first try rebuilding the carb. Namely, the replacing the power valve and accelerator pump. I had one leaking, a really really small pinhole, and it would drain all the fuel down the intake manifold and create a flooded condition. Only after it sat for a while and the fuel evaporated did it want to start. Of course, it acted as if it were flooded so I had some clue as to what was going on. A carb kit si about $22.

If that doesn't work, I'd keep the metal spacer and coolant tubes and slip the phenolic spacer (check Speedway Motors) between the carb and the metal spacer. That way, the thermal mass of the carb is kept further away from the manifold. Also, try wrapping the fuel inlet tube.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 05:04 PM
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FF, Boiling usually occurs with new alum intakes. The phenolic spacer works well there. Sounds like you may have a carb issue than needs to be addressed first.

Hope you can figure it out.




John
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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HIO Silver
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For information, here is a thread about the carb spacer with the coolant tubes: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ater-hose.html

My rig was ordered out of the Utah DSO and originally from Idaho which likely explains why it has the cooled/heated spacer plate. Interesting!!!
 
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 06:50 PM
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we use to take a small sheet of aluminum, cut it and basically install it under the carb base with an extra gasket....with the ends sticking out about 1.5" all the way around.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2011 | 08:33 AM
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Thanks guys, I'll start with the carb kit.

FWIW, the carb is 2150.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 10:57 PM
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My x-in laws 70 c/s 360 was slowly have restarting issues after being parked more them 30 minutes. So I completely rebuilt the carb with no change in the restarting. So after driving it to warm up good return home removed air filter and places a mirror so I could see down the carb throat and we stood there drinking a beer and 17minutes later we heard gas boiling out and down the carb it went. pulled the carb cover and recheck float level lower it 1/16"
Started the motor again ran it a few minutes and repeated are test again. Open another beer and waited 19 minute later it started boiling over once again. So this time by passed the coolant plate under the carb and this fixed the boiling gas problem for his truck. He ran a 195 thermasate..
orich
 
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