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The very first thing you can check is to unplug the MAP sensor's electrical connector and see how the truck runs. The MAP sensor is on the firewall on the passenger side near the heater box and should have a hose running from it to the intake manifold. Unplug the electrical connector and then start the truck up. It will turn the Check Engine Light on but the CEL will go out as soon as you plug the sensor back in. Take the truck for a drive and see if it acts better. If it does, either the tube going down to the manifold is plugged or cracked, or the sensor needs to be replaced. There are other things that can be checked as well, but this one is the best place to start.
It seems like it doesnt ever stay in 3rd very long, but has always been that way. It gets worse when towing. Im going to check for busted lines, hose leaks, and what not. I had to replace fuel pump, all rubber lines, due to fuel leaks. My 2006 f150 could pull better than this truck.
Sounds like your TC is locking up just after it gets into 3 gear. That is a point there that these auto's are lacking because just after the TC locks it feels real sluggish until it builds some RPM's. Lock out OT with the button and leave it in 3rd gear until about 50mph. Keep working the bugs out and your never pull with that 150 again.
So I can actually work the transmission back into shape without pulling it out? cause this truck has been a bit of trouble for a 7.3, but still better than a cummins.
FWIW, before my engine swap, I thought my E4OD was shifting funny. 1-2 was often late. 2-3 was even worse and at times would shift hard, occasionally the TC would lock before the 2-3 shift, which made the shift even harder. Since the swap, the transmission shifts like glass. No more hard shifts, no more hanging onto gears too long, to more awkward TC lockup timing. I think the engine was down significantly on power (badly worn injectors in my case and just a tired engine in general with 400k on it) and the PCM didn't know how to shift the trans correctly. I am running the same trans and PCM I was before and with the new motor, it shifts like a dream (for a stock E4OD). If the PCM is seeing a lot of throttle pedal and not much boost at the MAP sensor, who knows what it will do to the shift points and fuel map.
I would suggest that you figure out why you are lacking in power before you spend much time working on or worrying about the transmission. It may just be that things are not working well together.
If a diesel truck with 147,000 miles has been wore out then im gonna do ford like I did chevy, drop them and never look back. Chevy wont fix recalls , and ford changes things soon as they get it right. I hope I dont have to buy an import to tow a goose neck. If the EPA would move over we could really make vehicles that were worth the money. Thanks for the help yall! I dont wanna give up on her.
You'll get it! One way or another we will help you get it right. The engine in my truck made it 391,111 miles and wasn't done yet. It's almost a shame to part it out. I really wonder what a new set of injectors would have done to that motor...
By the way this truck never throws blue or black smoke, and will run like a champ on the highway. My average mpg is around 17 without trailor, to work and back.
Another easy thing you can do is to check the fuel pressure. This can be done at the fuel pressure regulator in the side of the fuel bowl. There is usually a black plastic cap on the Schrader valve. Just use a 75 or 100 PSI rated (cheap b/c you'll get diesel in it) stick style tire gauge. You're looking for about 60 to 65 psi at idle. There is a quick way to shim the regulator and bump the pressure if it is lower than that. Use a rag to shield the gauge because it will probably spray some diesel when you take it off.
I dread a engine or tranny swap because it is my daily driver, and would require me to finish it in one weekend. I havent put mods on this truck because they cause problems in the long run too. I had a mud truck that was a daily driver nightmare. I need it to haul my equipment like it should. Im going to test fuel pressure today. Thanks for the ideas.
As for the MAP issue, you could just have a boost leak. The seal between the turbo and the y-pipe can blow out. Its kinda rare, but it happens. Also, it could be leaking where the intake plenums seal to the heads.
EDIT: Before I did exhaust mods I could not hear me turbo much either. You may want to verify that the catalytic converter isn't plugged up. It can create enough backpressure to stiffle the turbo. Most people gut it or replace it with a pipe.
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