56 F350 16" split rims
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
Likes: 444
From: Central Illinois
First, welcome to the forum. Glad to have another big truck guy. The easiest way to tell whether you have "lock ring" style or "widow maker" style wheels is to look closely at the wheel face on a front wheel. If you see that the outer rim lip is a separate part, similar to the first pictures below, then you have "locking ring" style wheels.
If, however, you see a solid rim lip you'll next want to look at one of your rear outer duals (since you have 16s I'll assume your truck is DRW) to see if you can see a raised band like area around the middle of the outer rim similar to that shown in these pictures below. That is the widow maker. I'll also link some additional pictures of the widow maker showing how the halves of the rim join at the middle of the wheel. Hope these make it clear. If not, please say. Stu
If, however, you see a solid rim lip you'll next want to look at one of your rear outer duals (since you have 16s I'll assume your truck is DRW) to see if you can see a raised band like area around the middle of the outer rim similar to that shown in these pictures below. That is the widow maker. I'll also link some additional pictures of the widow maker showing how the halves of the rim join at the middle of the wheel. Hope these make it clear. If not, please say. Stu
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New User
Joined: Nov 2011
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thank you
Looks like locking ring.
Bought this truck 32 years ago and drove it from calif to maine. Had it parked for 14 years. had a rebuilt 272 short block put in under the 292 heads before I left. I left in a hurry and didn't wait to have my block rebuilt. They said I could rebore it too 292 later if I wanted to. Is this right. I do not plan on it it is still tight 160 across the board.
Bought this truck 32 years ago and drove it from calif to maine. Had it parked for 14 years. had a rebuilt 272 short block put in under the 292 heads before I left. I left in a hurry and didn't wait to have my block rebuilt. They said I could rebore it too 292 later if I wanted to. Is this right. I do not plan on it it is still tight 160 across the board.
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,514
Likes: 398
From: W. Central FL.
My understanding is that most 272 blocks will stand going to 292. It is recommended by some that the block be "sounded" prior to boring. Some blocks, due to core shift will not stand boring. I have my standard 272 bore Y block out and on the stand right now and I will probably stay with 272 and the smallest re-bore that will clean it up. BTW, mine is a '56 F350 DRW with 9' stake bed with a dump. Mine has the 17 1/2 tubeless wheels and tires.
BTW, welcome to the forum.
For engine specific answers, go to the Y block forum of this site or to yblcoksforever.com
BTW, welcome to the forum.
For engine specific answers, go to the Y block forum of this site or to yblcoksforever.com
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,679
Likes: 1,251
From: Jefferson City, MO
welcome to the forum petekcom. This is a great site.
I'll expand this with a question of my own. We know the widow makers are very bad and should be replaced. What are thoughts on the split-ring or lock-ring like in the first picture?
My 55 F250 has a couple of the split-ring, should I replace those? I have two other rims, but I would like to have a spare when it comes to that time. Would the split-ring be ok for a spare?
I'll expand this with a question of my own. We know the widow makers are very bad and should be replaced. What are thoughts on the split-ring or lock-ring like in the first picture?
My 55 F250 has a couple of the split-ring, should I replace those? I have two other rims, but I would like to have a spare when it comes to that time. Would the split-ring be ok for a spare?
Marmon-Herrington Man
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,986
Likes: 444
From: Central Illinois
There's absolutely nothing wrong with tube type lock ring wheels. Multi-part wheels have been the standard on trucks for many decades because they are generally stronger than the one piece style. Matter of fact they are still sold new today for heavy duty applications.
While tubeless wheels are much more convenient and easier to have serviced, the earliest of the tubeless truck wheels in the 17.5", 19.5", and 22.5" sizes had breakage issues when radial tires were first introduced. As a result the manufacturers would not honor warranties if radials were mounted. They later redesigned the tubeless sizes to add strength, and in the case of the Budd Company, added a letter "R" to their part numbers to show approved for radial tires. Stu
While tubeless wheels are much more convenient and easier to have serviced, the earliest of the tubeless truck wheels in the 17.5", 19.5", and 22.5" sizes had breakage issues when radial tires were first introduced. As a result the manufacturers would not honor warranties if radials were mounted. They later redesigned the tubeless sizes to add strength, and in the case of the Budd Company, added a letter "R" to their part numbers to show approved for radial tires. Stu
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,514
Likes: 398
From: W. Central FL.
I have five of the original sixteen inch lock ring wheels with the original Firestone tires with my 1973 F250 CS. I am currently running one in the spare position and considering putting new tires, tubes, and flaps and running with four of the lock rims down. With the original Ford crest hubcaps, they sure are a good rugged looking wheel. IMO, nothing wrong with them. They're easy to demount and mount a tire. Make sure there is no rust or wear on the ring or where it fits.
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Joined: Nov 2011
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Mine is F350 DRW flat bed. Just added rebuilt distributer and have a harmonic balancer on the way. The carb is still suspect. I rebuilt it but one needle valve needs to be shut all the way so I assume I missed something or need too replace it. This site has been great on the help.
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