flathead 6... no compression
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 995
Likes: 67
From: Mid-Michigan
flathead 6... no compression
No compression for 3 cylinders of my 226. I'm guessing stuck valves as it sat with an open carb for years.
So, before I take the head off, I'm going to pull off the intake and exhaust manifolds so that I can get to the valve covers and hopefully see what's going on.
Some days you win, and some days you lose...
So, before I take the head off, I'm going to pull off the intake and exhaust manifolds so that I can get to the valve covers and hopefully see what's going on.
Some days you win, and some days you lose...
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 54
From: Sterling CO
Any troubleshooting so far or just diagnostics?
I had 1 low cylinder, a ton of blow by, and hot exhaust.
It was suggested to me that I soak in seafoam overnight - did that, minimal help.
It was suggested to me that I soak in atf between overnight and a week - did that, help was better.
Haven't rechecked but the ATF calmed down the blow by and hot exhaust.
My plan is to drive it for a couple weeks then check compression again.
Another thing after you get it running is the "pepto treatment."
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10903921
The 3 above items are all a lot easier work wise than tear down and they might loosen the rings so they float again and get sticky valves unstuck.
I had 1 low cylinder, a ton of blow by, and hot exhaust.
It was suggested to me that I soak in seafoam overnight - did that, minimal help.
It was suggested to me that I soak in atf between overnight and a week - did that, help was better.
Haven't rechecked but the ATF calmed down the blow by and hot exhaust.
My plan is to drive it for a couple weeks then check compression again.
Another thing after you get it running is the "pepto treatment."
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10903921
The 3 above items are all a lot easier work wise than tear down and they might loosen the rings so they float again and get sticky valves unstuck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
I've got a flat V8 sitting in my garage that also got some water down the intake (it didn't make it to the cylinders, thankfully). I have the heads and intake off. The valves are sticking, but you'd never guess it from the valve chest or the cylinder deck.
No amount of anything is going to simultaneously get the rust out of the port, off the valve stems, and out of the guides. Removal and cleaning is the correct fix. Otherwise you'll just slowly wear out cylinders, valves, and guides.
No amount of anything is going to simultaneously get the rust out of the port, off the valve stems, and out of the guides. Removal and cleaning is the correct fix. Otherwise you'll just slowly wear out cylinders, valves, and guides.
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 995
Likes: 67
From: Mid-Michigan
Thanks for the response guys. I pulled the valve covers and found out that I have 3 stuck valves. And they are pretty stuck - gentle prying didn't free them so I don't know how much good it would do to soak the cylinders with seafoam or ATF.
I may have to bite the bullet and pull the head.
One idea I had, though, was to put a spacer between the stuck valves and the tappets and crank the engine by hand in hopes the tappet 'extension' would help to pop the stuck valve up. But I don't know what kind of trouble I could get into by doing this... like maybe cracking the camshaft... any thoughts?
I may have to bite the bullet and pull the head.
One idea I had, though, was to put a spacer between the stuck valves and the tappets and crank the engine by hand in hopes the tappet 'extension' would help to pop the stuck valve up. But I don't know what kind of trouble I could get into by doing this... like maybe cracking the camshaft... any thoughts?
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 995
Likes: 67
From: Mid-Michigan
I'm not sure exactly why they are sticking. The valve chambers aren't THAT gunked up so it could be a rust issue. That said, the engine is not particularly rusty. This is how it looked when I bought it:
<a href="http://s1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee483/badger_hound/misc/?action=view&current=DSCF8998.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee483/badger_hound/misc/DSCF8998.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
If I have time this weekend I'm gonna pull the intake and exhaust manifolds so that I can get a better look inside (turns out I was able to get the valve covers off today without pulling the manifolds off).
I am not opposed to unbolting the head, in fact I'd like to. However, I am not looking forward to breaking off head bolts as this truck has been sitting for a while.
<a href="http://s1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee483/badger_hound/misc/?action=view&current=DSCF8998.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee483/badger_hound/misc/DSCF8998.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
If I have time this weekend I'm gonna pull the intake and exhaust manifolds so that I can get a better look inside (turns out I was able to get the valve covers off today without pulling the manifolds off).
I am not opposed to unbolting the head, in fact I'd like to. However, I am not looking forward to breaking off head bolts as this truck has been sitting for a while.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
The trick is to use an impact wrench. If you can't, tighten the bolts a bit before removing them. Some people also smack the bolt heads with a hammer first, it relieves some stress.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 995
Likes: 67
From: Mid-Michigan
Well I managed to get the manifolds off yesterday. Two exhaust valves and one intake valve stuck, plus a mouse nest in one of the other ports, and another in the exhaust near the muffler! The rust and gunk don't look that bad on the upper part of the valves, so I may try again to pry them up from below after plugging up the ports and soaking the top of the stuck valves in some penetrant. I may try the ATF, thanks for the suggestion Bryan.
And thanks for the tip on the impact wrench Ross. I'm still leary about unbolting the head right now as I don't have a torch or mig welder handy to help extract the inevitable broken bolts from the block.
And thanks for the tip on the impact wrench Ross. I'm still leary about unbolting the head right now as I don't have a torch or mig welder handy to help extract the inevitable broken bolts from the block.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,584
Likes: 3
From: Chesapeake, Va.
You might try some "Rust Buster" on the top side of the valve stems and let it soak for a day or two. Another trick we used in the marine industry for inboards that were under saltwater for up to 2 weeks was to flood the top end with DOT 3 brake fluid, after clearing all the water out. This was used prior to disassembly for a rebuild, but some customers would not or could not afford a rebuild and if the engine ran or would turn over with the starter they would take their boat and do whatever to get it running again. Some of them ran for years after being sunk for several days in Florida waters.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 54
From: Sterling CO
Kudo's should go to Ross on that one 
He's the one who suggested the ATF to me (I had heard of seafoaming before several times - but ATF worked better in my case thanks to Ross for the suggestion).
He's the one who suggested the ATF to me (I had heard of seafoaming before several times - but ATF worked better in my case thanks to Ross for the suggestion).
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 54
From: Sterling CO
Ross's advice is sound - even when it isn't his :P
I guess it was yamagrant and kenjh who suggested it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-step-in.html
I guess it was yamagrant and kenjh who suggested it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-step-in.html
Thread Starter
|
Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 995
Likes: 67
From: Mid-Michigan
Some progress - I sprayed the stuck valves with WD40 earlier today and freed one exhaust valve with gentle prying from below. I need to find something to plug the other ports up with though before pouring in the ATF. I tried a round cork and an round rubber stopper but neither conformed to the square opening, which is about 1" X 2". Any ideas?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,297
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
I don't think you need to flood them with ATF, just squirt some more on them each day. WD40 isn't a penetrating oil, just a water displacer. Are you thinning the ATF with acetone or diesel? Usually that's the idea. Patience is a virtue... Why not pull the head, and the valves?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
filthy6
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
Feb 10, 2014 10:39 AM
Walle1danman
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Jul 25, 2013 06:56 PM
ramarado
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
3
Jul 2, 2010 10:52 PM
72amcamx
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
8
May 24, 2007 05:37 PM
