know your BOLTS!
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Don't forget a harmonic damper puller and a bolt/washer to install it.
Pull the radiator and you can sit on the support to do it.
Consider replacing the waterpump too if it shows any signs of bushing wear or impeller rot.
It does not get very hard, just stiff.
BUT, it does keep water out so the bolts don't sieze up and snap off.
Always change the FMS and consider sleeving (or changing) the damper if there are any signs of scoring.
I use Ultra Black (or gray) or 'Right Stuff' but VERY sparingly.
On my Lima there are convolute passages around the two water passages on the back side of the timing case where it meets the block.
These are there to keep water out of the oil, and give an indication of failure.
I wouldn't want to clog them up.
New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
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That's thorough advice ArdWrknTrk. You answered all my questions + some.
I wouldn't have thought about the puller until I was there!
If I understand you correctly, the timing cover doesn't get machined. You just plug the pitting with RTV sealant. Then use a separate gasket sealer for to supplement the gasket but use it sparingly.
What does FMS stand for?
I wouldn't have thought about the puller until I was there!
If I understand you correctly, the timing cover doesn't get machined. You just plug the pitting with RTV sealant. Then use a separate gasket sealer for to supplement the gasket but use it sparingly.
What does FMS stand for?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
That's why I said if you see signs of pitting use RTV sparingly.
Modern gaskets shouldn't need dressing, but you can if you like.
Edit to add; definitely use RTV at the corners of the oil pan. (the things you take for granted, lol)
FMS stands for front main seal.
The rubber lip can actually wear a groove in the steel boss of the damper.
This will result in instant failure of the new seal.
Be sure to lube the seal lip too.
They don't like to be started dry.
Modern gaskets shouldn't need dressing, but you can if you like.
Edit to add; definitely use RTV at the corners of the oil pan. (the things you take for granted, lol)
FMS stands for front main seal.
The rubber lip can actually wear a groove in the steel boss of the damper.
This will result in instant failure of the new seal.
Be sure to lube the seal lip too.
They don't like to be started dry.
New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
More good advice. Thanks for elaborating on that stuff. I feel like I'm prepared for the job now. Unfortunately, upon further inspection I found the intake manifold to have a small coolant leak as well. That coupled with all the little extras that would be involved to do a thorough job on the timing cover makes me want to wait until I can't live with it. Right now it's a relatively slow leak. I may try and drop some bars leak in the RAD and see if it helps.
Thanks again for the tips ardwrkntrk!
Thanks again for the tips ardwrkntrk!
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