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Excursion virgin. Cant find this part

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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 07:47 PM
  #31  
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2000 excursion muffler mod..

Originally Posted by RACERX7775
O ok. When people say straightpipe, it usually means taking the cat off.


Finally got rid of that ugly looking muffler.. It was eating me up..
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #32  
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Nice job! Hope that rock guard won't get too hot from the tailpipe. I think you'd be ok.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 10:09 PM
  #33  
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I doubt it would be a problem but a thought...that is so short, if you idle at a stop for a long time...say 10 minutes or more, you may start to smell the exhaust gasses in the third row seat...

The gasses being hotter than ambient air, at idle with not much pressure to force it out...there is a large cavity below the tail light behind and above that stone guard. Wondering if it could eventually get back in where the panel is on the passenger side (jack compartment).

I mention this because when I was installing some strobes, the seals they put in there are a joke...with an inspection cam and a 14ga wire I threaded wiring through there in about 20 seconds...that back area is NOT sealed from the outside air, and with the tailpipe now so short, if you idle it too long I'm wondering if the gasses may get back in there. We have a series of fire engine that has a short exhaust that sometimes stinks up the cab something horrible if we don't open the windows...wondering it that may happen to you as well.

The fix is simply open the back vent window and hit the fan when you smell something, but something to think about if you leave the truck idling in the summer with the AC on max...might start to smell funny after a while in the back.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 11:01 PM
  #34  
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Excursion miles till empty question

Originally Posted by robert_l_ross
.
Thanks rob, I was thinking of adding a longer pipe. I do have small children and I'd hate for the fumes to cause any hazards.

I'm wandering if anybody can help with something. I think My miles till empty indicator is not calibrated right. I recently gassed up and noticed that the miles didnt move. Is there a way to reset it?
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 11:10 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 809taino
Thanks rob, I was thinking of adding a longer pipe. I do have small children and I'd hate for the fumes to cause any hazards.

I'm wandering if anybody can help with something. I think My miles till empty indicator is not calibrated right. I recently gassed up and noticed that the miles didnt move. Is there a way to reset it?
Get it to the Miles per gallon, press both buttons and hold...heard of it freezing up at the actual mpg, but not the miles to empty. Might not fix it but worth a shot...
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 12:36 AM
  #36  
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I'll give it a shot... I think sometimes I'm parked on an angle on my driveway and it offsets the censor.. I'm planning a trip to Orlando with the fam and would like for everything to be on point. Thanks for the advise, I'll keep you posted...
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 09:49 PM
  #37  
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I held down both buttonds and the number 12 came up then it resets.. Thanks.

Originally Posted by robert_l_ross
Get it to the Miles per gallon, press both buttons and hold...heard of it freezing up at the actual mpg, but not the miles to empty. Might not fix it but worth a shot...
 
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Old Nov 17, 2011 | 10:21 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by 809taino
I held down both buttonds and the number 12 came up the it resets.. Thanks.
"12"? Weird...anyone else heard of that code from the trip computer when resetting the MPG?
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 12:22 AM
  #39  
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It went 12 then i pressed the left button and the it went 11 then 10 and so on. After a few seconds it goes back to mte. I pressed both buttons again to reset and the 12 come up again and after a few seconds again it resets. I dont know what the 12 means but it works good now..

Originally Posted by robert_l_ross
"12"? Weird...anyone else heard of that code from the trip computer when resetting the MPG?
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 02:05 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 809taino
It went 12 then i pressed the left button and the it went 11 then 10 and so on. After a few seconds it goes back to mte. I pressed both buttons again to reset and the 12 come up again and after a few seconds again it resets. I dont know what the 12 means but it works good now..
I'm almost wondering if that has something to do with the calibration...

<...pages turning...>

...a little checking in the owners manual and on page 61 it indicates that it is the compass calibration zone. Zone 12 is Maine. You will want Zone 8 unless you are on the extreme Eastern coast, then you'd want Zone 9.

Setting Compass Calibration:
The compass display is contained in the overhead console. The vehicle heading is displayed as one of N, NE, E, SE, S, SW, W and NW. The compass heading is displayed in average fuel economy modes, fuel range modes and temperature modes. The compass reading may be affected when you drive near large buildings, bridges, power lines and powerful broadcast antenna. Magnetic or metallic objects placed in or on the vehicle may also affect compass accuracy. Adjustments may need to be made to the zone and calibration of the compass.

Compass zone adjustment
1. Determine which magnetic zone you are in for your geographic location by referring to the zone map.
2. Locate the trip computer on the overhead console.
3. Turn ignition to the ON position.
4. Press and hold both trip computer controls. After approximately four seconds, the trip computer will enter zone setting mode. Zone setting mode is indicated when the display lights the “ZONE” indicator.
5. Release both controls. Subsequent pressing of either control will increment the zone. Press the control repeatedly until the correct zone setting for your geographic location is displayed on the trip computer.
6. To exit the zone setting mode and save the displayed zone in memory release both controls for greater than five seconds.

Compass calibration adjustment
Perform this adjustment in an open area free from steel structures and high voltage lines.
For optimum calibration, turn off all electrical accessories (heater/air conditioning, wipers, etc.) and make sure all vehicle doors are shut.
1. Locate the trip computer located in the overhead console.
2. Start the vehicle.
3. Press and hold both trip computer controls. After approximately eight seconds, the trip computer will enter CAL mode. CAL mode is indicated when the display lights the “CAL” indicator.
4. Release both controls. The display will return to normal, except that the CAL indicator will remain lit until the compass is sucessfully calibrated.
5. Slowly drive the vehicle in a circle (less than 5 km/h [3 mph]) until the CAL indicator turns off. It may take up to five circles to complete calibration.
6. The compass is now calibrated.


Average fuel economy.
The display will indicate the vehicle’s average fuel economy in liters/100 km (or miles/gallon) since the average fuel economy was last reset.
If you calculate your average fuel economy by dividing liters of fuel used by 100 kilometers traveled (miles traveled by gallons used), your figure may be different than displayed for the following reasons:
• your vehicle was not perfectly level during fill-up
• differences in the automatic shut-off points on the fuel pumps at service stations
• variations in top-off procedure from one fill-up to another
• rounding of the displayed values to the nearest liter (gallon)

To reset the average fuel economy:
1. Press the MODE control repeatedly until average fuel economy is displayed (this is the only resettable display).
2. Press the E/M and MODE controls simultaneously. The display will illuminate the “AVG” indicator. While the indicator is lit, release both controls to reset the average fuel economy.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 03:31 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 809taino
It went 12 then i pressed the left button and the it went 11 then 10 and so on. After a few seconds it goes back to mte. I pressed both buttons again to reset and the 12 come up again and after a few seconds again it resets. I dont know what the 12 means but it works good now..
Maybe your getting a few feet per gallon. You did mention she was running rough and you were tuning up on weekend.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 04:36 PM
  #42  
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Yes i should be getting her a tuneup this weekend. I have to change out the spark plugs also... She sputters a bit when cold.. Or just out of the blue sometimes. From previous experience i can tell it's a miss fire issue caused by old sparkies. This truck had one owner who only put 137k on it in 11 years. It runs smoooooth........ To me that's great.

The emergency break pedal seems to be stuck on down position but the break don't seem to be engaged. The handle is broken. I used some pliers to pull the cable but it didn't bulge. I have to look into that.

Ac only works on full. I ordered the blower motor resistor and it should be here tomorrow.
The ac doesn't blow too cold when parked. May need freon, I hope it's not the compressor clutch..

She also has a common lock problem. From a few threads I've read I'm gonna have to pay some $50 a door if i want this fixed. To me it's odd that all locks solenoid go bad at the same time. I'm no electrician but to me it sounds strange. Maybe someone can elaborate.

I don't have a manual and i wish i did... Looks very useful.. I reset everything and it all appears to work fine thanks to you.. Thanks

You think that manual may be online somewhere? This may sound dumb but i pressed every button on the radio to change the clocks time. no luck.

Originally Posted by LivingLarge
Maybe your getting a few feet per gallon. You did mention she was running rough and you were tuning up on weekend.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 04:59 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 809taino
This truck had one owner who only put 137k on it in 11 years. It runs smoooooth........ To me that's great.
NICE!!
Originally Posted by 809taino
The ac doesn't blow too cold when parked. May need freon, I hope it's not the compressor clutch.
My Expedition had a similar issue - for me it was the blend door. A test is to turn the AC on full, then turn the heat/cold to full hot then full cold. I guess it's vacuum controlled and if you have a tiny leak it's enough to let the door start to open under idle. Sometimes a cycle from hot to cold will seal the door for a short time.

Originally Posted by 809taino
She also has a common lock problem. From a few threads I've read I'm gonna have to pay some $50 a door if i want this fixed. To me it's odd that all locks solenoid go bad at the same time. I'm no electrician but to me it sounds strange. Maybe someone can elaborate.
What "common" lock problem are you referring to? My 2000 had the 'weak actuator' issue that I was able to do the "tinfoil" fix for and it is working great.

Originally Posted by 809taino
I don't have a manual and i wish i did... Looks very useful.
I can e-mail you a PDF version if you want. Or you can go to owner.ford.com It has how to set the clock as well.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 06:25 PM
  #44  
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You may want to blow some compressed air backwards through your radiator and condensor to blow out some debris/dead bugs that may be caught between the fins. Also, look at the space between the condensor and radiator and make sure nothing is stuck in there. This would help your AC.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2011 | 09:08 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by robert_l_ross
NICE!!

What "common" lock problem are you referring to? My 2000 had the 'weak actuator' issue that I was able to do the "tinfoil" fix for and it is working great.

I can e-mail you a PDF version if you want. Or you can go to owner.ford.com It has how to set the clock as well.
Im very interested in the tinfoil fix. Sounds interesting. is that a thread? are there pictures?
 
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