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Invertor power (puzzled)

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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 11:45 AM
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Invertor power (puzzled)

Hey all, Did a little searching but must be using wrong search words. I am hooking up a 1200w power invertor in my 04 drw 6.0. My question is which battery is best to hook my invertor into?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 12:14 PM
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Either battery will work.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 12:45 PM
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...because, they are in the same circuit, they are a parallel connected battery of batteries for starting. There is no isolation like you may be thinking would be there in a 'auxiliary battery' setup, this is all the same so anywhere you connect you get both. And drain both, if you run it down.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2011 | 01:24 PM
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You do know that that is a 10 amp max draw inverter, right? And that's prob an INITIAL not continous draw rating.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:49 AM
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Thanks guys, figured it was simple. The drivers side battery is much easier and shorter to run so was hoping for your good news...

BPofMD - 10 amp for 1200w sounds a little low? Most invertors are not very efficiant so have a notable power loss in the conversion. anyway, This one is actually a 2000w surge with 1200w continuous. Recommends "00" cablings for my length for 80 amp draw. I will run #2 wire ($$$) along with a 3farad power cap at the back seat to reduce surge hits. I fuse at the battery for 80 amps. but have never blown a fuse. It runs quite a number of power tools from time to time so does get loaded. I run power to avoid low voltage as that is more damaging than a square wave invertor to electronics.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by BPofMD
You do know that that is a 10 amp max draw inverter, right? And that's prob an INITIAL not continous draw rating.
Watts = Volts x Amps

1200 = 12 x Amps

1200/12 = Amps

100 = Amps
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by tim.moman
This one is actually a 2000w surge with 1200w continuous. Recommends "00" cablings for my length for 80 amp draw. I will run #2 wire ($$$) along with a 3farad power cap at the back seat to reduce surge hits. I fuse at the battery for 80 amps.
Where is the fuse going to be? Your limiting the safe amount of amperage you can run through the wiring by under-sizing it. Yes, 00 wire is expensive...but these trucks aren't cheap either. Too each there own, but if was me...I'd bit the bullet and put the right sized cable in the first time & be done with it.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tim.moman
Thanks guys, figured it was simple. The drivers side battery is much easier and shorter to run so was hoping for your good news...

BPofMD - 10 amp for 1200w sounds a little low? Most invertors are not very efficiant so have a notable power loss in the conversion. anyway, This one is actually a 2000w surge with 1200w continuous. Recommends "00" cablings for my length for 80 amp draw. I will run #2 wire ($$$) along with a 3farad power cap at the back seat to reduce surge hits. I fuse at the battery for 80 amps. but have never blown a fuse. It runs quite a number of power tools from time to time so does get loaded. I run power to avoid low voltage as that is more damaging than a square wave invertor to electronics.

An INVERTER changes DC to AC. If you are using it to power an 110 volt AC product, that IS about a max draw of 10 amps.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 04:13 PM
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BP. Not sure why you are set on 10amps. The math below is accurate power calc (minus circuit loss), unless you are speaking to the 110v side which is about 7amps as I recall. Be aware cheaper circuit designs trade substantial losses for cost.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
<o></o>
May have to consider 00. and maybe that is what I have from the last install. Need to look in the box. Ground may have been the #2? Or my tie off to the amps. Anyway, having the cap does allow a smaller power wire for most of the duty it sees. On a side note - I do have a concern of yanking that much amperage out the truck for any extended duration. Would not make my day to burn out my electrical system. (fry Alt, or Alt wiring etc...) High power stuff is only when the genset is not handy usually a angle grinder. <o></o>

The advice is greatly appreciated. Always good to be pushed to do it right over lazy. Esp when I know better too.

Oh, I am fusing at the battery.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 05:16 PM
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Looks like it will be 00 wire. I forgot that I left all the wiring in the old truck that I gave to my brother. Which was 00. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by tim.moman
The advice is greatly appreciated. Always good to be pushed to do it right over lazy. Esp when I know better too.
I know how you feel, I want to run 000 cables on my truck out both ends for jumper cables/winch usage. Talk about expensive little idea.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 06:51 PM
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I installed 2/0 wiring for mine.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 09:52 PM
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get welding cable if possible, it is very flexible, maybe have a shop crimp on good lugs. Ive load tested 1200-2500 watt inverters & the current draw can & will be over 100 amps on the 12 volt side with a large load. 1/0 copper is 150 amps, 2/0 175 amp & 3/0 200 amps, good luck
 
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Curt's05
get welding cable if possible, it is very flexible, maybe have a shop crimp on good lugs. Ive load tested 1200-2500 watt inverters & the current draw can & will be over 100 amps on the 12 volt side with a large load. 1/0 copper is 150 amps, 2/0 175 amp & 3/0 200 amps, good luck
If you can find the size you need, this is the way to go. When I installed an inverter and extra battery in my travel trailer I saved a ton of money by going this route. If you have a welding supply store in your area they will have the wire, lugs, even a crimping tool if you want but a vice will work fine also. A battery shop will sell shrink tubing for the lugs too. As far as the fuse goes, a better option may be a circuit breaker style switch. Ebay is a good source for that. Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2011 | 12:27 PM
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Yeah, I run the welding cable. Far easier to work with and very rugged. I usually crimp and then solder my connections. I get supplies like heat shrink from a local electronics supply house. Have not found the fuse link I want to run yet. I like having a fuse block under the hood that I can tap off for other things. Might consider a breaker, in my use most I find are auto reseting, if I blow it I want to know why before re-energizing. Having a short that cycles an auto reset breaker is ugly. Had not thought about ebay, will check that out.
 
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