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Hi.I just got a 84 150.302.c-6.I think it has the duraspark II due to it having the square box with 2 plugs in the drivers fender well..Symptoms are that it idles very rough even after I rebuilt the carb..The air fuel mixture screws are like 5 turns out and the idle in park has to be up to about 1200 rpm for it to barely idle in drive..I have noticed that when idling if you look down the carb throat it has gas dripping down the ventura bores..The whole bores are soppy wet with gas.You can see it running down the bores and dripping off the bottom of them.That can't be right can it?..Any ideas would be greatly appreciated...I believe it is a MCraft 1250 carb..Metal tag is stamped E3UE-EA
Another thing I don't know if it is related but I want to address is..The egr valve has been removed from this truck..Can that be replaced.
If I were you, I'd get a rebuild kit for that 2150, and set the carb up to factory spec'd settings.
Adjustments can be easily found...should come with the kit, but the internet is a fabulous place for information. Mixture being 5 turns out tells me you need to get back to basic settings. Float levels, mixture, choke, get all of 'em to factory spec and go from there. You have to have a good baseline first, before you can diagnose any other issue.
Check your timing also!
Keep posting as you work this issue, and we'll help you all we can, ok?
Oh, I just reread your post. I see that you had just rebuilt your carb. See Dave's post below...
The fuel level is too high in the fuel bowl. It's spilling over into the engine making it run rough and rich. You need to take the top off the carb, and check the float setting, make sure the float is not heavy with fuel inside it, and also look down in the bottom of the bowl. If there is brown dust or flakes in the bottom of your newly rebuilt carb, you have a rusty gas tank and fuel system, and this dirt is hanging the float needle up, and it's not shutting off, letting the carb overflow with fuel.
If I were you, I'd get a rebuild kit for that 2150, and set the carb up to factory spec'd settings.
Adjustments can be easily found...should come with the kit, but the internet is a fabulous place for information. Mixture being 5 turns out tells me you need to get back to basic settings. Float levels, mixture, choke, get all of 'em to factory spec and go from there. You have to have a good baseline first, before you can diagnose any other issue.
Check your timing also!
Keep posting as you work this issue, and we'll help you all we can, ok?
Oh, I just reread your post. I see that you had just rebuilt your carb. See Dave's post below...
Thanks.It wont idle at all with 2 turns out on the screws.I put a manual choke on it.It wouldn't idle at all until it warmed all the way up.When I got it the timing was way off.I wound up between 8-10 btdc with no pinging under acceleration.Truck seems to run real good except for the idle issue and the soppy wet bores..Accelerates well.No backfires,no bogging down.Oh yeah..mpg is between 7-9...84 302 should get at least 15 mpg shouldn't it.
The fuel level is too high in the fuel bowl. It's spilling over into the engine making it run rough and rich. You need to take the top off the carb, and check the float setting, make sure the float is not heavy with fuel inside it, and also look down in the bottom of the bowl. If there is brown dust or flakes in the bottom of your newly rebuilt carb, you have a rusty gas tank and fuel system, and this dirt is hanging the float needle up, and it's not shutting off, letting the carb overflow with fuel.
Thanks Dave.I checked the float level and it seems to be closeish.About 1/2 in from the top..About level..I noticed when I put the float back it it seemed to soak up fuel instead of repel it but when I shook it I didn't hear anything inside it...I'm gonna go get a brass float this morning and see it that helps...I'll let you know..
I put a brass float in it and it is much better although still rough idle..I'm thinking I may have a vacuum leak in my power booster that may be hurting the idle..When I initally push the brake I hear a hissing sound down by the brake pedal for a couple seconds.Also the front section of the master cylinder loses fluid to somewhere..Dosen't appear to be leaking at the wheels..Is there some way to check the booster for an internal leak.
If you think the booster is causing the rough idle, just take the vacuum line off and plug it, or just squeeze the line with some vise grips to plug it off and see if it improves. Fluid leaking out the rear of the master cylinder can get into the booster and damage it.
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